Temp. Guage and probe. For a forge....?

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This may have been put to a question on here but..
Looking for a high temp. probe and guage for a new made ,forge.
I have a couple company names , but BF member that can tell me for sure what works ..And will not break the bank.. Before I pull the trigger on a new even heat ..
.. I figure go to the people who know,and may have one......
Thanks Greg.....
 
You want a PID and a type K thermocouple. The thermocouple should be 10 or 12 gauge. A ceramic TC sheath is also a good idea. The PID can be used as a read-only device, or made to turn on/off a control. On a forge , you could have it turn on a red light when the forge gets to the set point. Later on, you could make the forge controlled by the PID by adding a solenoid valve in the gas line. Read the PID controlled Forge sticky for more info.
 
bladsmth ,I knew I could count on you . Giving up some stored info...I have a contact co. to call ,and this is what I will ask for.
Thanks fro your help and being there for BF members..
Greg
 
Stacy is the ceramic sheath really necessary, does it prolong the life of the thermocouple or something. I picked up a 10" type K and have used it a couple of times so far but I didnt notice any ceramic covers for that size. Just curious hopefully this isnt thread jacking.
 
A ceramic sheath will lengthen the life of the TC as well as even out the readings. It isn't required, but is definitely a good idea. They can be found on ebay or from suppliers like Auberins.

Getting a good quality TC, a terminal block, TC wire, and a ceramic sheath for about $45 will be money well spent.
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?m..._id=39&zenid=0fb98b382fd240ea199448e1b2888682
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?m..._id=40&zenid=0fb98b382fd240ea199448e1b2888682

There is another reason a TC sheath is a good idea. It makes installing and removing the TC easier. If you install the sheath in your forge through a hole, and then seal it in place with refractory cement, it is a pretty long lasting thing. The TC can be slid in and out with no problem when it is needed on another device or being replaced.


I often see people post that they found really cheap TCs on certain sites. They may be good, but the TC is the most critical part of a forge setup you have to rely on. Saving $2-5 on getting one that isn't tried and tested can be false economy.
Would you use the cheapest condom available,....... considering what is riding on its reliability?
 
good stuff! I got a cheapo pid/tc from a certain auction site, but when I build an insulated pipe forge I will get my stuff from auberins
 
Surprisingly, nearly all PIDs work just fine. My guess is they are all made in China, regardless of who sells them.

When it comes to a TC, some of the cheapies are just fused dissimilar metal wires....which is what they all are....but the weld can be of poor quality, and the wire can be of lesser grade. If you have bought and checked the TCs and items from a budget source and they are reliable, fine, but for your first unit, I always suggest going with a known source.

Other things that matter are:
Having hook-up wire of the matching type and polarity ( yes, the wire is polarized like the TC is).
Using a connector block or other connection device made for a low signal/voltage loss.
Using a TC plug ( polarized) on the end of the cable and a matching socket on the controller. This allows easy changing of the TC or moving the PID/controller to another device.
Reading the crazy manual filled with weird words. You won't understand much, but it may help with some of the settings and functions. Luckily, most PIDs are pretty much plug and play for our uses.
Building the controls in a good box with enough space for additions and modifications. A cheap HF tool box can make a good project box. By cutting a piece of 1/4" plexiglas the size of the tray and mounting the components on it, you can make the panel see-through.
 
Stacy .
It is good seed ..I will fallow planting seeds, directions...
Thanks for being here, doing what you do ..
Greg
 
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