Temperature control for the forge

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Sep 17, 2020
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47
Does anyone here use a temperature controlled gas valve to maintain temperature in your forge? What pid controller are you using?
 

Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

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The valve isn't actually controlled. It is the burner that gets adjusted.

Here is a brief overview I posted:
Read the Two-Stage PID Controlled Forge sticky. The process is very simple, ant does not need proportional control. The whole setup can be made for around $100.


You need a:
PID - Any inexpensive PID controller will do. It only need SSR output contacts for our use (all of them have this).
SSR - A Solid State Relay ...SSR ... turns the solenoid ( or any load device) on and off. 40 amps is a good size. Even though the solenoid will draw a very low current, the 40 amp SSR will not need a heat sink. If the SSR has a built in heat sink, so much the better.
Solenoid - You want a 120VAC on/off gas solenoid valve that is rated for propane/natural gas. It should be rated to 15PSI. 1/4" ports are the best size.
Needle valves - two simple 1/4" needle valves, some elbows/tees/pipe/hose/etc.
Thermocouple - Type K thermocouple, 8 to 10 gauge (1/8") size is what you want. You want one with the round spacers to keep the leads apart. Thermocouples are polarized, they must be wire correctly.
TC sheath - For a forge, you need to protect the TC from the flame. A ceramic TC sheath that fits the TC with the sacers on it is usually a 3/4" sheath.
TC block - A TC mounting block is the best way to connect the 1/8" TC leads to the 20 gauge wires going to the PID.
TC wires - You need type K wires to connect the PID to the TC. The wires ar polarized and balanced to make the reading accurate. 20 gauge is a good size.

Here is a wonderful build tutorial:

Another thread on making one:
 
Last edited:
Joined
Sep 17, 2020
Messages
47
The valve isn't actually controlled. It is the burner that gets adjusted.

Here is a brief overview I posted:
Read the Two-Stage PID Controlled Forge sticky. The process is very simple, ant does not need proportional control. The whole setup can be made for around $100.


You need a:
PID - Any inexpensive PID controller will do. It only need SSR output contacts for our use (all of them have this).
SSR - A Solid State Relay ...SSR ... turns the solenoid ( or any load device) on and off. 40 amps is a good size. Even though the solenoid will draw a very low current, the 40 amp SSR will not need a heat sink. If the SSR has a built-in heat sink, so much the better.
Solenoid - You want a 120VAC on/off gas solenoid valve that is rated for propane/natural gas. It should be rated to 15PSI. 1/4" ports are the best size.
Needle valves - two simple 1/4" needle valves, some elbows/tees/pipe/hose/etc.
Thermocouple - Type K thermocouple, 8 to 10 gauge (1/8") size is what you want. You want one with the round spacers to keep the leads apart. Thermocouples are polarized, they must be wire correctly.
TC sheath - For a forge, you need to protect the TC from the flame. A ceramic TC sheath that fits the TC with the sacers on it is usually a 3/4" sheath.
TC block - A TC mounting block is the best way to connect the 1/8" TC leads to the 20 gauge wires going to the PID.
TC wires - You need type K wires to connect the PID to the TC. The wires ar polarized and balanced to make the reading accurate. 20 gauge is a good size.

Here is a wonderful build tutorial:

Another thread on making one:
Stacy, thank you for the help and links. There’s plenty to read here and I think it’s going to get read several times.
 
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Sep 17, 2020
Messages
47
Thank you Stacy. These are going to be helpful. I have 2 ribbon burner forges side by side (large and small) and will try to get them both under control with the least redundancy.
Your helpfulness is very much appreciated!
Ray
 
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