Temperature Controller Wiring Help Please!

Michael J. Spangler

Michael J. Spangler

Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
2,181
hey if anyone knows how to wire one of these let me know. i'm dying to get this thing running. i have an omega 7800 serries controller with an SSR. thanks

Mike
 
look in one of my posts on HM HT Oven - I had a picture attached with wiring.

You will need to make following connections:

- power to the PID controller. usually line voltage in very wide range - 110 or 230 or whatever you have. But it _DOES VARY_ with model #, so double check. Some take
in DC voltage or 12V AC.

- connect TC - two wires from TC to the input terminal on PID

- connect 2 wires of "SSR control" from PID to the SSR "control" inputs

- connect one leg of line voltage to one of "LINE" inputs of SSR

- connect other leg of line voltage to one of ends of the heating spiral

- remaining end of spiral to the remaining lug of SSR (LINE)

Make sure the exterior of oven is grounded. That should do it.

Do @ your own risk .... etc etc blah blah blah more legalese goes here
make sure all circuits are dead and you are unplugged as you wire it all
up.
 
if you get stuck you can call the omega tech support . they're good and will help troubleshoot. also online manuals you can download too
 
awesome.... perfect i had just found the pictures you posted after i started this thread.
so i'm going to go with 10/3 wire. i have some high temp wire too

how should i go about mounting all this stuff? i was thinking of making some type of box attached to the side of my oven where i can put the controller, and have the SSR and Heat sink out in the open to keep the air flow moving around it. what do you think? i'm dying to get this going. i'm going to spend all day on it if i have to. then its gonna run and i have some blades to HT! and if any of you guys in the area wanna drop by to do some HTing soon. let me know

thanks again
 
box on a side sounds just fine. Make sure you mount the SSR onto a heatsink
of some sort. A piece of metal or al plate should work in a pinch. Assuming the
oven is not in a path of flying grit and metal dust, you don't quite have to put
the PID and SSR inside of a box, mine is mounted on a piece of wood.

Take care in how you connect the ends of the spiral - they will get plenty hot.
 
alright next question... seeing as i need to connect the 220 to both the controller then one end to ssr and one end to the coil.... how do i go about this without having 2 wall plugs??? can i go with both leads to the controller and go with more wires off the same terminals to make the connection for the ssr and the coil? or is there a better way?

please excuse my ignorance with electrical work... but if you ever need to know how to cook something. i'm the man.
 
A CN7800 will run on 220V. You can hook the AC input of the controller to the same incoming 220V line. I'd add a switch and fuse before the controller, too.
You probably have it, but here's the literature from Omega.
As for wiring it all up, there was a diagram put up on here for doing the wiring that might be helpful.
 
220 V input: Line to 11, Neutral to 12
Thermocouple input: Red (-) to 5, Yellow (+) to 4
Output to SSR: - to 2, and + to 1
SSR wiring: There's a simple hookup drawing about 3/4 of the way down this page...
 
awesome more good news. now i need to throw in a switch... just anything that has the right rating high enough to handle the load right?

now how exactly will i go about splitting the 220 before it get to the controller? i know i wanna go wot a fuse and a switch... then i need to somehow get it to the controler and the rest of the set up? can i just hook it to the controller then make connections to those same terminals, one headed to one end of the coil and the other headed to the ssr? thanks again.
 
I rely on breaker to the job. Ideally, you want to first power up the _spiral_ + SSR duo,
_then_ the controller. This way you spare whatever switch you got from having to
turn on 15-20A @ 240V - which is no ez task and properly rated switch will set you back
a few bux.



Breaks down like this: the SSR is by default OFF. So when you first attach the power to SSR/spiral, no current is flowing, the spiral is off and the whatever switch u use won't have to establish 20A of current right off the bat (20A @ 240V will spark like crazy and erode your switch in few throws).



Now, when u _then_ power up the PID, it inits itself, senses it needs to go up in temp and it will then tell the SSR to turn on. Since SSR is a semiconductor switch, there's never any sparks etc, it will last forever. Not only this, now that the watever electromechanical switch you use (breaker or whatever) is already ON, there will be no arcing there either.

Remember that you can run a totally separate 110V circuit to power up the PID - don't have to be same one as what goes to the SSR/Spiral.

If you want to do it the other way, then do it like this: expose some wire on the 10-11 gage wire you got going to the spiral/SSR and use some fairly thin wire to "tap" in - just wind a few turns and then use electrical tape to isolate the "taps" , and then run these thinner wires to the power-in terminals of the PID.


Doing it the other way will be tricky, as you will need to make sure you run 10-11 gage wires _all_ the way to the spiral and SSR - which will be tricky to do if you want to run this thick of a wire to the PID terminal block and _then_ out of it.

Remember that both legs of 240V are HOT - there's no neutral. So you will HAVE to run the 3rd wire, GROUND, to the oven to ground the exterior of it. Not only this, to properly break 240V, you have to do it to both legs - unlike the 110V where you only do it to the hot leg, as the other one is neutral (which is connected to the ground @ the breaker box) and thusly is safe to always be connected to whatever appliance.
 
alright maybe i'll go with a seperate 110 for the controller... i just figured it would be nice to have one plug to deal with.
one of my best friends is an electrician, he's away this weekend. i think i'm just going to wait for him to get back and do it all right, i think i'm going to have him put another 220 outlet in anyway, so i'm not stealing the dryer plug all the time. damn, such a long wait and now once i get it..... more waiting. ahhh well it'll all be worth it in the long run
thanks
 
do put in a dedicated 20A 220V outlet - with proper gage wires. If the run is longer than 10f, I'd go down in gage #, just to make sure . Make sure receptacles are rated to 20A too.

In my garage, I brought out 20A 220V outlet 1f from the main panel and then I use home-made extension cord, made out of proper gage wire, to reach: grinder, TIG, MIG, wood BS, HOV .
 
yeah i'm gonna have him go overkill on the hook up.
damn i'm excited... I can't wait to run this thing... and to try to figure out the programming. sweet. thanks a lot guys you all helped out a bunch.
 
On programming:

- you need to tell it your TC's type (K-type?)
- you will need to run it through a training cycle - so it "learns" thermodynamic characteristics of your oven. This way it won't overshoot and/or oscillate as much
- you might need to tell it to use SSR output
- change to F or C for display

that should be it. Methinks you will love the convenience of having your own HO
:)
 
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