tenacious killed by 1/2" sheetrock

hvacak47 said:
tip broke about 1/2" down
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Sorry to hear about your knife. I was looking at my Paramilitary 2 and noticed that the blade right below the hole is very thin, I just assumed that yours broke there. The Tenacious is sort of an intermediate steel so I thought it might be more on the "more ductility/less edge holding" side of the compromise. I'm surprised that the Gerber did better, maybe it has a different blade geometry. I wouldn't attempt to pry with my Paramilitary because it seems very thin.

These are a little bit heavy but I think you could pry with them, and they aren't real expensive:

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But if you want something really tough maybe you want one of the small Beckers, like the BK14.
 
I usually use a cat's paw when I have to pry something on site, but if it's got to be a blade...maybe a tanto style would suffice and perhaps short and stubby...kabar fin?
 
You could always pick up a Cold Steel Voyager. I think they are selling for around $40. Try and find a tougher folding knife for the same amount of money.
 
hvacak47 said:
I do heating and air and dont need to pry on much.

To be honest I was shocked at the small amount of force it took to snap the blade.

Im interested in the endura. Looking for pics of one with a sabre grind now.

Thanks.
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The blade was not designed for prying, a rescue knife may be the best blade for that - Gerber hinderer.
 
Glad you decided on a new knife and so quickly too. Don't forget to pick up a Widgy bar as suggested. Weighs less than an ounce and will always be there for the next time. If not, let's go ahead and starting talking about your next work knife after you snap the Endura. ;)
 
Well, sounds like you've got the knife you want, but I think this might work for you:

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CRKT Stubby Razel, street price around $65.

Unlikely to snap, I would think.
 
Flat grind is about the worst grind you could want if you intend to pry with a knife. That's probably the reason the Gerber had no problems while your Tenacious did, as the Tenacious is a pretty thin blade designed for slicing, not prying. Sabre ground will probably treat you better for that sort of abuse, but won't slice as well. I'd say you'll probably be fine with a sabre ground endura, but you might want to think about a sabre ground delica instead. It's a shorter blade so there won't be as much pressure on the tip when you put leverage on it. That having been said, consider getting a small crowbar like what people here have been saying or a knife with less of a pointy tip.

EDIT: Just did a google search for Widgy Bar, and you can get small pocket sized ones made out of steel that's designed for prying in a design made for prying for less than 10 bucks. I'm not sure you can go wrong for that price.
 
That gerber is probably way soft, down in the 50 HRC range and doesn't hold an edge for crap, meanwhile your Tenacious is in the high 50s and holds a decent working edge... that's the trade off...

Someone recommended a GB. Now, I know CPM M4 is quite tough, one of my favorite steels actually. But I feel like this toughness is more apparent in edge deformation, and being able to thin down your edge, not necessarily for pure lateral prying forces. Am I wrong?
 
goodeyesniper said:
But I feel like this toughness is more apparent in edge deformation, and being able to thin down your edge, not necessarily for pure lateral prying forces. Am I wrong?
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You aren't quite wrong, toughness is about impacts, not prying. Hardness would be important for thin edges, toughness for chopping/batoning. A fixed blade of the same geometry would have broken the same way, since the handle/pivot were in no way involved.

How about a multitool with pliers and screwdrivers to complement your folder. Plenty of pocket sized prybars at the hardware store, the shipping for just a widgy kinda makes it not worth it.
 
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