Testing for SHARP

...I would think it would depend on what you were going to use it for, right? You would'nt want a razor edge on an ax.It would also depend on the blade configuration, concave or convex. I think the harder the use, the more agressive the edge, and the more delicate the use, the finer the edge can be, depending on the grit of the sharpening devise. Its just my opinion, I may be way off course.....Ironhorse...
 
Guys: Leather and cardboard are both fine-if the knife geometry, particularly the blade's thickness-don't obstruct the cutting. My thicker japanese blades will exhibit more drag on cardboard when the knife is held square to the cardboard than if you allow your knuckles to touch the cardboard so you are actually cutting at a diagonal across the cardboard. I hope I explained this well-
My thoughts on SHARP are independant of edge holding, or, edge geometry, as mentioned in a previous post. If you have a thicker, more obtuse bevel for your application, that's fine-but, you're not going to be able to pass most of the tests I described. When you can sharpen a given blade to the point when you "graduate" and pass a test you couldn't pass before,you know you've got more sharp.

When you get so you can use/abuse an edge
and go back and still pass that same test, you know your steel has got better wear resistance/toughness and/or hardness, depending on what kind of use/abuse you subjected the knife to. So, these tests can become a sort of measuring device you can use to evaluate/test your quality control as well as your abilities.

RJ Martin
 
I like the SHOP CAT trick. I will have to see if I can lure my Neighbors cat into my garage for some LIVE field tests. Tha t darn thing has too much hair anyway
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[...]2) roll a newspaper sheet into a 3" diameter tube. scotch tape just the ends.
stand the tube on end-cut through it diagonally and leave the base standing on the table. this works best with blades 5" and longer.[...]
RJ Martin[/B][/QUOTE]
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Ok, I've been doing my homework. Thanks to all for the wealth of information that I have learned so much from. I've always relyed on the guy at the knife shop to sharpen my blades, but recently bought a Sharpmaker from him. After some practice, I have been able to get a pretty decent edge on a knife, however the above test makes me want to pull my hair out after just reading about it. Is it possible to get a knife that sharp with a Sharpmaker? I have tried it on my Benchmades, Spydies and even my LCC without success. I have been unable to pass tests like the one above, or other tests that boggle my mind. Is it time for me to learn the joys of freehanding? I'm apprehensive about trashing my knives, can anyone recommend a good starter kit? :-)

 
The late Bob Grind turned me onto the Edge Pro sharpening system, which I use when sharpening something that has to turn out "perfect"!
I had made up some "stones" of tempered glass the same shape as the aluminum backed ones that came with the kit, and glued strips of various sandpapers to them for the final strop...this was before they started making those tapes they have for the system now.
I've also played with some of those diamond impregnated greases on hard felt wheels, but since have backed off.....nothing needs 100,000 grit polish!
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by pjlanglois:
[...]2) roll a newspaper sheet into a 3" diameter tube. scotch tape just the ends.
stand the tube on end-cut through it diagonally and leave the base standing on the table. this works best with blades 5" and longer.[...]
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however the above test makes me want to pull my hair out after just reading about it. Is it possible to get a knife that sharp with a Sharpmaker?I have been unable to pass tests like the one above, or other tests that boggle my mind.
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This test also takes some skill not only a very sharp knife it is posibal you are getting your knife sharp enough to do this but useing the wrong swing or angle... Hard to know. I like rope cutting to test shapness because it does not take much skill and can be repeted easily.
 
This is a little over in left field...but Master wood-workers (the ones I have spoken with) do a shaving test on a piece of pine. Granted, this is with chisels and planes... BUT...if they can take the tool and shear off a silky curl on the END-GRAIN of pine, then it's sharp. Even a sharp knife will crush the end-grain. So I know if a knife will do this, it's very sharp.

Just another one
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Nick
 
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