Texas Ranger 2011; 188 Yrs. of Service/or Big Bad Boy #4

The pictures do show exceptional build-quality. The engineering and materials look top-drawer.

Interesting and individual knives, but too large for my needs. I like this year's interpretation of the Toothpick theme. This talk of the springs made me think of an ideal. I have a modern French knife Chambriard Le Compagnon in Ebony and all stainless fittings. Quite a large knife with a long thin distal tapered blade, supreme slicer. The thing is, it's really quite easy to open but it's hell to close, this is as it should ideally be with a slipjoint. Seems like these AGR knives have that similar positive element.
 
Hi Roland.
Fantastic Revue on A.G's knives, I own the big sowbelly/dogleg ( is this realy more of a sowbelly than a dogleg? ) clip/wharncliff knife, and I totally agree with everything you are saying. These are giants of knives, but I prefer bigger knives, I usually carry this one in my jacket pocket as I am not a fan on back pocket, and its a little too large for front pocket.
Factory sharp!! very sharp
The spring tension in mine is perfect, pinch open both blades, both open and close with the exact same tension.
I have yet to sharpen this knife, and would like to know what you think Roland on the steel, now please forgive me here the blade is marked 8Cr13MoV, I take this means chrome molly, but I am new to sharpening, and would love your opinion on the "hows", I may give this a good strop up soon.
Great thread Roland - thank you once again, and Mr Russell...thank you for your fantastic knives.

Regarding sharpening, I've re-done the edges on 3 of my AGR knives (gunstock, Cowboy and the wharncliff blade on one of my sowbelly trappers) with the the 8Cr13MoV blades. Bear in mind, the edges on these were already quite good. I just wanted to see what the steel would respond to. I did my yellow delrin gunstock first, doing a slight convex with wet/dry sandpaper on leather (thru 2000 grit). I then used a DMT Aligner/MagnaGuide with DMT Dia-Folds (C/F/EF/EEF) on the yellow delrin Cowboy, to put on a more acute bevel, which I then convexed with the sandpaper. And just a few days ago, I did the wharnie blade on the cocobolo sowbelly, using the same Aligner/MagnaGuide/DiaFold combo, leaving a slightly more acute V-bevel. In all three cases, in spite of different edges/bevels/blade thicknesses on each, they all took very fine edges, easily to hair-popping sharpness. Steel seems to be very fine-grained. Doesn't seem to have many issues with burrs/wire edges either. The relative ease of sharpening it, combined with the fine edge it seems to take, reminds me somewhat of VG-10 (which DOES have some stubborn wire edge issues, based on those I've sharpened so far). I haven't really tested durability yet, but I don't see anything to be worried about, with this steel. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna like it.
 
David,
Thank you very much for going to the trouble of explaining this to me, if you dont mind, I will copy this and put this in my sharpening file, so I can access this great info, thank you friend. :thumbup:
 
Duncan, David's method is a little 'advanced'. After all he is obsessed with edges. My simple plan is: use a blade until a loss of sharpness first becomes apparent, then strop. If more is needed: Spyderco Sharpmaker fine white rods, light strokes.
Eventually: EdgePro, but take it easy. I'm a beginner(sort of) and the stage i'm at is trying to not take off too much steel; just enough to reform a fine edge. I think it requires a light touch. i.e. not much pressure, soft, easy. (mantra)
roland
 
Duncan, David's method is a little 'advanced'. After all he is obsessed with edges. My simple plan is: use a blade until a loss of sharpness first becomes apparent, then strop. If more is needed: Spyderco Sharpmaker fine white rods, light strokes.
Eventually: EdgePro, but take it easy. I'm a beginner(sort of) and the stage i'm at is trying to not take off too much steel; just enough to reform a fine edge. I think it requires a light touch. i.e. not much pressure, soft, easy. (mantra)
roland

I am a teentsy-weentsy bit obsessed (:p).

However, the gunstock model that I added a little convex to was really pretty basic. I just 'stropped' the existing factory bevel, which was already very good, using the sandpaper (600/800 grit & up) on top of my strop block. In terms of ease of sharpening, this is my favorite method by far. If your blade already has a very good/excellent V-bevel on it, and you don't mind a gentle convex, it's about the easiest way I know of, to touch-up or even upgrade the edge a bit. Don't have to worry about deliberately making it convex. If you just 'strop' it this way over time, it'll take care of itself. It works better if the existing V-bevel is somewhat acute, as the convex will usually make the edge angle a tiny bit thicker (but more practice at maintaining a steady angle will minimize that, too). This is why I used my Aligner & diamond hones on the Cowboy model, before convexing, to narrow the bevel angle a bit first.
 
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Roland
Thank you my friend, I have gathered that as well, and stashed it away in my file:D
And thank you David once again, I appreciate it very much guys :thumbup:
 
That swell center toenail is interesting, I think the only deal breaker is the sheild and blade etch...I might be able to get past that though, really good info in this thread, heard plenty about the AGR china line but not bought anything yet. Will have to change that maybe with the toenail.
 
Mr. Russell has stated that a "civilian" version of the toenail will come out sometime in the future, without the blade etch or the texas ranger shield. I expect it to have the normal shield and to come in a choice of Cocobolo, brown rucarta or yellow delrin.
 
Mr. Russell has stated that a "civilian" version of the toenail will come out sometime in the future, without the blade etch or the texas ranger shield. I expect it to have the normal shield and to come in a choice of Cocobolo, brown rucarta or yellow delrin.

VERY good news, thanks! *sits impatiently* :D
 
Hi Guys,

I've never collected or owned any of the three previous ones but I sure do want to own this one. I'd like to ask, are the etch,nail nick, and badge found on the right side as well?


Sincerely,

Roy
 
Hi Guys,

I've never collected or owned any of the three previous ones but I sure do want to own this one. I'd like to ask, are the etch,nail nick, and badge found on the right side as well?

Sincerely,

Roy

Obverse side only, none on the reverse side.
 
That swell center toenail is interesting, I think the only deal breaker is the sheild and blade etch...I might be able to get past that though, really good info in this thread, heard plenty about the AGR china line but not bought anything yet. Will have to change that maybe with the toenail.
Paleeze ... ya gotta love that bright shining Texas star! LOL Seriously,if you ever get to Waco check out the Texas Rangers museum.Unbelievable history and those guys always loved their bling.The knife,gun, and gun grip collection is amazing!Nice job A.G.!
 
I have to say, all the locking knives (medium? gunstock, rope knife and large hunter locking knife) all look right up my alley.

The sow Belly is on my "need" list.

So, So many of his AG Russel's knives just call to me.
 
Well, Decided to resurrect this thread since I finally got mine yesterday.

It's quite a beast. I understand what one of the previous posters meant by "weak backspring". Although I'd say that it's not a week backspring. The reason it might feel that way is simply the principle of leverage. It's a LONG knife and opening it by the tip is indeed very easy. However try doing the same thing near the pivot. Not so easy I can tell you. The long barong blade simply acts like a large lever making it easy to open.
 
I've been a fan since I received my curved regular Jack wharncliffe, what a great knife. I just wish I had more money to spend on A.G.'s knives! I'd love a pinched Peanut and a Spire for starters :D
 
I feel the same way...except I'd get the dogleg trapper and the spire. Or maybe the loveless Folder. For now all I know is that I'm going for every Texas Ranger from now on. This was my second one and it was worth every penny.
 
This thread came to life again so i re-read it. David (Obsessed with Edges), really confirmed my belief that these "Texas Rangers" are truly great knives with his sharpening report. i.e. you cannot fault these knives on any aspect, including steel quality.
So: What will be the 2012 Texas Ranger and when will it become available ?
I hope it will be from the same manufacturer (Hanwei ??).
roland
 
Thanks to those who resurrected this thread, I had never seen the "Texas ranger" series from AG Russell.
Sooner or later I will get a knife from him (hopefully, before the year is over, sowbellies will come out in the 3,5" range...and then I will be in trouble not to get one :)

Fausto
:cool:
 
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