TGLB/ TGULB questions

[Kenneth F Huls]

Anyone have a pic of a tglb/TGULB compared to a hell razor or hr2?

mmm . . . .
Just my two cents. Go with an ASH-1, HR(I as opposed to a II, if possible, and can find without CBT), or a SFNO to go with your small ESEE’s (but consider a small Busse! - think Mini Mean Street or Park Ranger?).

The TGLB is a very cool knife and devotees love them. I get it. But as mentioned above, the ASH-1 will do small tasks better if necessary and still do bigger knife chores. This is true to a somewhat lesser extent RE the small knife chores for the HR(I) and the SFNO. The HR(I) is a bit shorter and a good bit lighter than the HR (II), which is still a fine knife, and the SFNO is a bit heavier and longer than a std ASH-1 (middy) and will chop and baton better. The HR(1) will do it all but is lighter for chop and baton than the ASH-1 middy (perhaps) or SFNO. Very fast knife.

Again, while a great knife series, the TGLB’s Achilles heel IMHO as an all around field knife is the top of spine/double guard. It does and will get in the way more than a knife (as proposed above) without one, no matter the choking up around it technique. It actually serves no purpose IMHO/TMK. Contrary to romanticized (and not likely historically accurate to the “Sand Bar Fight” Bowie), notions of a “Bowie” or primarily WWII era designed or inspired fighting/combat knife (think Kabar/Randall #1), it will not help in a theoretical knife fight as one does not “catch the opponent’s blade on one’s guard.” To my knowledge, one has yet been able to propose a need for that feature. Just sayin’, though this may generate a lot of hate, or perhaps just disagreement here. I don’t intend to hijack the thread on this (as said, they are great knives), but simply offer perhaps thoughtful opinion on your larger companion blade if you only seek one.
Good luck!

 

[Dylan Kermon]

mmm . . . .
Just my two cents. Go with an ASH-1, HR(I as opposed to a II, if possible, and can find without CBT), or a SFNO to go with your small ESEE’s (but consider a small Busse! - think Mini Mean Street or Park Ranger?).

The TGLB is a very cool knife and devotees love them. I get it. But as mentioned above, the ASH-1 will do small tasks better if necessary and still do bigger knife chores. This is true to a somewhat lesser extent RE the small knife chores for the HR(I) and the SFNO. The HR(I) is a bit shorter and a good bit lighter than the HR (II), which is still a fine knife, and the SFNO is a bit heavier and longer than a std ASH-1 (middy) and will chop and baton better. The HR(1) will do it all but is lighter for chop and baton than the ASH-1 middy (perhaps) or SFNO. Very fast knife.

Again, while a great knife series, the TGLB’s Achilles heel IMHO as an all around field knife is the top of spine/double guard. It does and will get in the way more than a knife (as proposed above) without one, no matter the choking up around it technique. It actually serves no purpose IMHO/TMK. Contrary to romanticized (and not likely historically accurate to the “Sand Bar Fight” Bowie), notions of a “Bowie” or primarily WWII era designed or inspired fighting/combat knife (think Kabar/Randall #1), it will not help in a theoretical knife fight as one does not “catch the opponent’s blade on one’s guard.” To my knowledge, one has yet been able to propose a need for that feature. Just sayin’, though this may generate a lot of hate, or perhaps just disagreement here. I don’t intend to hijack the thread on this (as said, they are great knives), but simply offer perhaps thoughtful opinion on your larger companion blade if you only seek one.
Good luck!

Not hijacking at all, love the conversation. Eventually I will grab a smaller busse or even a swamp rat (I’ve had ratmandus and even an infidu, ans a rodent 6) around 4” blade and no more than 3/16” thick, but that’s down the line. I’d love an ash or a HR 1, however I don’t have the money right now to go much higher than a TGULB or HR 2 on the site, eventually down the line once those are taken off the site I could always trade up or sell to fund one, but that’s where i am right now and is why I’m stuck on the HR2 or TGULB. The only thing hanging me up on the HR2 is the CBT, I like them on the HR1, however on the HR2 with them being wider Idk if it would create more drag in meats/fish/ softer wood, on the HR1 they’re very classy looking to me, but I am function over form so I could be wrong but that’s my only hold up, as well as the 8” being on the very outer edge of the length I want, but it seems close enough to the TGULB to be negligible. It’s also on the outer edge of weight for me. On the TGULB my only hang up really is the top guard, i know I could get around it, but the comfort level may get to me. The TG design was one I’ve always liked just bc it introduced me to busse, but that’s whatever. I’m not concerned about chopping, as I’ve never not been able to cut or baton through anything in the size range I’d be messing with, I usually just baton crossways through the limb rather than chop, or just saw if needed. If it wasn’t for the top gaurd on the TGULB, I’d be sold, but then again it wouldn’t be a TG without it. On the rodent 6 I had I hated the top gaurd but The design wasn’t easy to maneuver around like it is on the TG, judging by pics. On the HR2, I’d probably would have already ordered it over the TGULB if it wasn’t for the wider CBT. Really just looking for a one knife to carry when I only can/want to take one knife, that’s easy to carry and can handle smaller camp chores from feather sticks to gutting fish or game, as well as mundane tasks, without being too heavy or have a blade too big that it’s cumbersome/ unwieldy for smaller stuff. I know there are other busses that may do that better, and I’ll probably go there eventually, but all things considered, I’ve gotta pick between the HR2 or TGULB.

 

[Dylan Kermon]

If anyone has some more pics of a HR2 in hand that they could post, it would be appreciated! As well as any pics of either the TGULB or HR2 In use in the field

 

[Kenneth F Huls]

Not hijacking at all, love the conversation. Eventually I will grab a smaller busse or even a swamp rat (I’ve had ratmandus and even an infidu, ans a rodent 6) around 4” blade and no more than 3/16” thick, but that’s down the line. I’d love an ash or a HR 1, however I don’t have the money right now to go much higher than a TGULB or HR 2 on the site, eventually down the line once those are taken off the site I could always trade up or sell to fund one, but that’s where i am right now and is why I’m stuck on the HR2 or TGULB. The only thing hanging me up on the HR2 is the CBT, I like them on the HR1, however on the HR2 with them being wider Idk if it would create more drag in meats/fish/ softer wood, on the HR1 they’re very classy looking to me, but I am function over form so I could be wrong but that’s my only hold up, as well as the 8” being on the very outer edge of the length I want, but it seems close enough to the TGULB to be negligible. It’s also on the outer edge of weight for me. On the TGULB my only hang up really is the top guard, i know I could get around it, but the comfort level may get to me. The TG design was one I’ve always liked just bc it introduced me to busse, but that’s whatever. I’m not concerned about chopping, as I’ve never not been able to cut or baton through anything in the size range I’d be messing with, I usually just baton crossways through the limb rather than chop, or just saw if needed. If it wasn’t for the top gaurd on the TGULB, I’d be sold, but then again it wouldn’t be a TG without it. On the rodent 6 I had I hated the top gaurd but The design wasn’t easy to maneuver around like it is on the TG, judging by pics. On the HR2, I’d probably would have already ordered it over the TGULB if it wasn’t for the wider CBT. Really just looking for a one knife to carry when I only can/want to take one knife, that’s easy to carry and can handle smaller camp chores from feather sticks to gutting fish or game, as well as mundane tasks, without being too heavy or have a blade too big that it’s cumbersome/ unwieldy for smaller stuff. I know there are other busses that may do that better, and I’ll probably go there eventually, but all things considered, I’ve gotta pick between the HR2 or TGULB.

I can’t argue with or disagree about anything you have said there. Really great explanation of your needs and preferences. My humble advice would be to go with the HR-II based on what you’ve said. Not sure you are gonna dig that double guard in the TGULB, though it is lighter. Weight does matter to me as I am less a camper and more a long trail/off trail hiker. The weight of my HR-I or my skinny ASH works for me when weight matters. My HR-I is a comp and no CBT. Aesthetically I don’t admire CBT, in either form, but like you I like to think I am function over form when it comes down to it. I really don’t recall ever hearing function based CBT complaints. If you got it, and it was too big/heavy or hated the CBT, you could always catch and release, even in the soft market, but same could be said of the TGULB for that matter. Though you might take a small hit in these trying times.

BTW, I have come to agree that 8” is a tad too long for my needs as well.

Here is a thought based on all that you have said - including price point. If you are not dead set on INFI, how about a BG ASH/HR/SFNO? I think but am not 1000% certain there were a few BG HR’s. Definitely are ASH’s and SFNO’s. They can be had much more affordably. I have a SFNO LE, but also a BG SFNO and I like both for different and similar reasons. Just a thought. And someone around here might be willing to hook you up!

 

[Dylan Kermon]

Anyone have a weight on the TGULB? I found the weight on the HR2 but can’t find an actual weight for the tg

 

[Kenneth F Huls]

Anyone have a weight on the TGULB? I found the weight on the HR2 but can’t find an actual weight for the tg

Did you search for and check Jerry’s initial announcements/offering post?

 

[Dylan Kermon]

Did you search for and check Jerry’s initial announcements/offering post?

I did, 11 oz without scales, didn’t know if anyone had a weight with them

 

[Kenneth F Huls]

I did, 11 oz without scales, didn’t know if anyone had a weight with them

Well, if you are truly weight conscious, you go scale-less anyway. ; )

 

[zombieassassin]

I haven't read all the posts above but I will say...as an owner of both a TGULB and a TGLB.....the TGLB being my all time favorite knife.....the TGULB will serve well as an edc/bushcraft blade. I feel the TGULB is a bit more maneuverable in some ways....love them both...but am currently carrying my TGULB every day in my go-bag.

 

[dogboye]

It's not that it isn't noticeable. It is comfortable. The handle wedges has a more refined, slightly rounded feel to it.

So I guess it's "not noticeable" in the sense that it's not something that sticks out that you'll notice, or that feels out of place. It's well blended and well designed.

I agree with lmcq's assessment.

mmm . . . .
Just my two cents. Go with an ASH-1, HR(I as opposed to a II, if possible, and can find without CBT), or a SFNO to go with your small ESEE’s (but consider a small Busse! - think Mini Mean Street or Park Ranger?).

The TGLB is a very cool knife and devotees love them. I get it. But as mentioned above, the ASH-1 will do small tasks better if necessary and still do bigger knife chores. This is true to a somewhat lesser extent RE the small knife chores for the HR(I) and the SFNO. The HR(I) is a bit shorter and a good bit lighter than the HR (II), which is still a fine knife, and the SFNO is a bit heavier and longer than a std ASH-1 (middy) and will chop and baton better. The HR(1) will do it all but is lighter for chop and baton than the ASH-1 middy (perhaps) or SFNO. Very fast knife.

Again, while a great knife series, the TGLB’s Achilles heel IMHO as an all around field knife is the top of spine/double guard. It does and will get in the way more than a knife (as proposed above) without one, no matter the choking up around it technique. It actually serves no purpose IMHO/TMK. Contrary to romanticized (and not likely historically accurate to the “Sand Bar Fight” Bowie), notions of a “Bowie” or primarily WWII era designed or inspired fighting/combat knife (think Kabar/Randall #1), it will not help in a theoretical knife fight as one does not “catch the opponent’s blade on one’s guard.” To my knowledge, one has yet been able to propose a need for that feature. Just sayin’, though this may generate a lot of hate, or perhaps just disagreement here. I don’t intend to hijack the thread on this (as said, they are great knives), but simply offer perhaps thoughtful opinion on your larger companion blade if you only seek one.
Good luck!

I love all my TG variants (as I do my HR variants), but I won't disagree that I cannot find a purpose for the top guard, other than perhaps aesthetics. I never though it was a bout catching the opponents blade. I DO believe if you are in an occupation where you may actually use the knife to stab something, it is more secure in your hand with both a top and bottom guard. Perhaps pig hunting with a knife? I know some people do that, and I would insist on having top and bottom guards for that. In the TG variants, it also gives you one more lashing point if you, God forbid, ever found yourself in a survival position where you needed to lash it to a pole. I certainly wouldn't put that high on my list of reasons to get a TG, though!

What I will say is I just pulled out a TGULB, and held it like I would if I were actually pressing on the spine of the blade with my thumb, while having my index finger in the choil. I wear a size small or medium glove (depending on specific gloves, and my thumb laid nicely over the top of the top guard. The top guard did not impede my ability to apply pressure to the spine of the blade. YMMV. But to me, is just isn't an issue.

I can’t argue with or disagree about anything you have said there. Really great explanation of your needs and preferences. My humble advice would be to go with the HR-II based on what you’ve said. Not sure you are gonna dig that double guard in the TGULB, though it is lighter. Weight does matter to me as I am less a camper and more a long trail/off trail hiker. The weight of my HR-I or my skinny ASH works for me when weight matters. My HR-I is a comp and no CBT. Aesthetically I don’t admire CBT, in either form, but like you I like to think I am function over form when it comes down to it. I really don’t recall ever hearing function based CBT complaints. If you got it, and it was too big/heavy or hated the CBT, you could always catch and release, even in the soft market, but same could be said of the TGULB for that matter. Though you might take a small hit in these trying times.

BTW, I have come to agree that 8” is a tad too long for my needs as well.

Here is a thought based on all that you have said - including price point. If you are not dead set on INFI, how about a BG ASH/HR/SFNO? I think but am not 1000% certain there were a few BG HR’s. Definitely are ASH’s and SFNO’s. They can be had much more affordably. I have a SFNO LE, but also a BG SFNO and I like both for different and similar reasons. Just a thought. And someone around here might be willing to hook you up!

There were definitely BG Hellrazors. I have two (two is one, one is none). Plus, you can't have too many Hellrazors, TGs, or Ratmandus. They were about the same thickness as the HR2, no CBT, have a fuller, and are under 8 inches long (7.125" tip to front of handle scale). As much as I like the SFNO design (have the BG SFNO and a NMSFNO... as well as a NFNO), I wouldn't recommend the BG SFNO for what you're looking for. It is a quarter-inch thick. Definitely a "CHOPPAH". Not light by any means.

Anyone have a weight on the TGULB? I found the weight on the HR2 but can’t find an actual weight for the tg

Try searching on just TGULB. I could swear that people were posting weights of them once they started arriving in people's hands. Here is one, comp with micarta scales, 14 oz.

 

[Dylan Kermon]

I agree with lmcq's assessment.



I love all my TG variants (as I do my HR variants), but I won't disagree that I cannot find a purpose for the top guard, other than perhaps aesthetics. I never though it was a bout catching the opponents blade. I DO believe if you are in an occupation where you may actually use the knife to stab something, it is more secure in your hand with both a top and bottom guard. Perhaps pig hunting with a knife? I know some people do that, and I would insist on having top and bottom guards for that. In the TG variants, it also gives you one more lashing point if you, God forbid, ever found yourself in a survival position where you needed to lash it to a pole. I certainly wouldn't put that high on my list of reasons to get a TG, though!

What I will say is I just pulled out a TGULB, and held it like I would if I were actually pressing on the spine of the blade with my thumb, while having my index finger in the choil. I wear a size small or medium glove (depending on specific gloves, and my thumb laid nicely over the top of the top guard. The top guard did not impede my ability to apply pressure to the spine of the blade. YMMV. But to me, is just isn't an issue.



There were definitely BG Hellrazors. I have two (two is one, one is none). Plus, you can't have too many Hellrazors, TGs, or Ratmandus. They were about the same thickness as the HR2, no CBT, have a fuller, and are under 8 inches long (7.125" tip to front of handle scale). As much as I like the SFNO design (have the BG SFNO and a NMSFNO... as well as a NFNO), I wouldn't recommend the BG SFNO for what you're looking for. It is a quarter-inch thick. Definitely a "CHOPPAH". Not light by any means.



Try searching on just TGULB. I could swear that people were posting weights of them once they started arriving in people's hands. Here is one, comp with micarta scales, 14 oz.

Thanks guys. Yeah I’m wanting to stick with infi, in the bigger blade at least. I’m thinking I might go with the TGULB, and at least see about the top gaurd. If I don’t like it I may trade up or wait until they’re off the site and use the increased value to go to a SFNO, if I could fine one .22” thick or less , as those probably are my grail now that I’ve really looked at them. Don’t really care for the handles on the FSH/ SH line too much. I would go with the HR2 instead, however the blade height/ overall length/ and weight is just throwing me off somewhat, looks killer though. Only other thing I’d like to see before pulling the trigger is a HR2 compared to a SFNO. Worst case, I get the TGULB, hate the talon, and sell it to try a HR2. If the HR2 was ever so slightly smaller though, or at least had the old CBT, itd be a no brainer

 

[Kenneth F Huls]

I agree with lmcq's assessment.



I love all my TG variants (as I do my HR variants), but I won't disagree that I cannot find a purpose for the top guard, other than perhaps aesthetics. I never though it was a bout catching the opponents blade. I DO believe if you are in an occupation where you may actually use the knife to stab something, it is more secure in your hand with both a top and bottom guard. Perhaps pig hunting with a knife? I know some people do that, and I would insist on having top and bottom guards for that. In the TG variants, it also gives you one more lashing point if you, God forbid, ever found yourself in a survival position where you needed to lash it to a pole. I certainly wouldn't put that high on my list of reasons to get a TG, though!

What I will say is I just pulled out a TGULB, and held it like I would if I were actually pressing on the spine of the blade with my thumb, while having my index finger in the choil. I wear a size small or medium glove (depending on specific gloves, and my thumb laid nicely over the top of the top guard. The top guard did not impede my ability to apply pressure to the spine of the blade. YMMV. But to me, is just isn't an issue.



There were definitely BG Hellrazors. I have two (two is one, one is none). Plus, you can't have too many Hellrazors, TGs, or Ratmandus. They were about the same thickness as the HR2, no CBT, have a fuller, and are under 8 inches long (7.125" tip to front of handle scale). As much as I like the SFNO design (have the BG SFNO and a NMSFNO... as well as a NFNO), I wouldn't recommend the BG SFNO for what you're looking for. It is a quarter-inch thick. Definitely a "CHOPPAH". Not light by any means.



Try searching on just TGULB. I could swear that people were posting weights of them once they started arriving in people's hands. Here is one, comp with micarta scales, 14 oz.

Great post. I appreciate the perspective. You mention pig hunting with a knife RE the double guard/quillon. True, I suppose - especially re lashing it as a spear. I do believe that traditional European boar hunting spears have the double, and in theory prevents a big, heavy beast from running up the shaft to do you harm. So, yup, I suppose there is that! I actually thought about that traditional boar spear after I posted.

You are right about the BG SFNO's, though. Yes, definitely thicker and heavier than my LE! The handle slabs are much thicker as well - I sanded and contoured mine down to approximate those of the LE. Much nicer now. I don't mind that heavier blade, but it is about the limit for how I typically use it. (my Fat ASH is definitely a chopper!)

 

[Kenneth F Huls]

Thanks guys. Yeah I’m wanting to stick with infi, in the bigger blade at least. I’m thinking I might go with the TGULB, and at least see about the top gaurd. If I don’t like it I may trade up or wait until they’re off the site and use the increased value to go to a SFNO, if I could fine one .22” thick or less , as those probably are my grail now that I’ve really looked at them. Don’t really care for the handles on the FSH/ SH line too much. I would go with the HR2 instead, however the blade height/ overall length/ and weight is just throwing me off somewhat, looks killer though. Only other thing I’d like to see before pulling the trigger is a HR2 compared to a SFNO. Worst case, I get the TGULB, hate the talon, and sell it to try a HR2. If the HR2 was ever so slightly smaller though, or at least had the old CBT, itd be a no brainer

Sounds like a plan for you! Someday, though, score a SFNO LE = WOW! Can't get enough of mine.

As for the comp between the SFNO and the HR2, it will be about an inch shorter in the blade at approx. 7", and the old SF handle was a tad shorter with a slightly - slightly - different profile. Not a huge change other than the new one is a tad longer. Both are great handles depending on your mitts and preferences.

 

[Currawong]

You mention pig hunting with a knife RE the double guard/quillon. True, I suppose - especially re lashing it as a spear. I do believe that traditional European boar hunting spears have the double, and in theory prevents a big, heavy beast from running up the shaft to do you harm. So, yup, I suppose there is that! I actually thought about that traditional boar spear after I posted.

I go pig hunting now and then, the kind where you bail the hog with pigdogs and dispatch it with a knife. I've used the TGLB to stab pigs and the double guard makes it feel much safer. When you stick a pig, the pig is leaping around, trying to bite you, trying run off, etc. There are dogs all over the place. You have to hold it's back leg off the ground with one hand to stop it running and push the tip of the knife into a pretty specific point behind the shoulder with the other hand. The knife is often wet because plants are wet from dew or you're sweating or its raining or there is blood. So a handle with a palm swell, a grippy surface and a double guard is a good thing because you want as secure a grip as possible.

 

[Kenneth F Huls]

I go pig hunting now and then, the kind where you bail the hog with pigdogs and dispatch it with a knife. I've used the TGLB to stab pigs and the double guard makes it feel much safer. When you stick a pig, the pig is leaping around, trying to bite you, trying run off, etc. There are dogs all over the place. You have to hold it's back leg off the ground with one hand to stop it running and push the tip of the knife into a pretty specific point behind the shoulder with the other hand. The knife is often wet because plants are wet from dew or you're sweating or its raining or there is blood. So a handle with a palm swell, a grippy surface and a double guard is a good thing because you want as secure a grip as possible.

good on ya’! Thanks for the perspective of your experience. If I ever take it up I will likely go with a TG. Seriously! Stay safe.

 

[Kenneth F Huls]

Dylan, there is a very good price on what I think is a Combat Grade (in black) SFNO with what looks like Tequila Sunrise scales on the sales page. Just saying. And, no, it is not mine, so hopefully this is ok.

 

[ursamajor]

Put it this way, if I was going out specifically shooting rabbits and expected to be processing a few of them, and I only had room for one knife, I would never take a TGLB. It would be too frustrating to use on multiple rabbits if I could have a small thin knife instead. But if I was going camping and expected to be doing a wide range of things, with a 5% chance I might also get a rabbit and have to skin it and gut it and then cook it (and make a fire to cook it with) then 100% a TGLB would be fine.

It doesn’t matter the knife. It it has a sharp enough edge to cut a 2” perpendicular slit in the center of the rabbit’s spine when I pinch it (like the scruff of a cat’s neck) then skinning the rabbit is easy. Basically an any knife that has a steel and heat treat that is a known commodity, with a decent edge on it. Heck, you could even use a hatchet or hawk.

Pee it, cut the slit across its spine, and stick your index and middle fingers of each hand the slit, and pull apart, towards the head, and tail. Once the skin is hanging there, chop off the head, and the legs at the heels of the back legs, and elbows of the front. Then pinch the skin of its belly, and make another small slit. Stick your index and middle fingers in, and up its main cavity, punching through the diaphragm and pull it’s innards out, then trimming around the inside of the hind legs, to let the entrails fall free. Then trim away the sinew of the abdomen, from the base of the ribcage, up to the back straps, and down to/around the hips.

I could use a Battle Mistress to do this, as easily as a Buck knife.

By the time you get to your 3rd bunny, and for every other bunny you skin and dress out for the rest of your days, the whole thing will take about a minute/rabbit.

 

[MacLaren1]

Indeed, a sharp blade will do the job