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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Thank you Uncle Bill
- Thread starter Skeletor
- Start date
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2002
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- 544
Handpolishing with the turtlewax worked pretty well. I'm going to do it some more over the weekend but I'm seeing really good results from very little effort. Would the turtle wax be a good idea on the brass and blade? Oh, one more thing. Could someone tell me how to use the chakma, I use it and it just scrates up the chakma with no result to the kukri.
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2001
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- 5,946
What grit sandpaper did you use before going using the turtle wax?
I've been using automotive wax to inhibit rust on the blades. It's less messy than the oils. For extended outdoor trips I'd take a bottle of mineral oil.
Using the chakma? I'll let the more skilled members answer this one. Generally I use one of the edges of the chakma and "wipe" it away from the edge to realign small microscopic nicks and burrs in the edge.
Some folks use the side too.
I've been using automotive wax to inhibit rust on the blades. It's less messy than the oils. For extended outdoor trips I'd take a bottle of mineral oil.
Using the chakma? I'll let the more skilled members answer this one. Generally I use one of the edges of the chakma and "wipe" it away from the edge to realign small microscopic nicks and burrs in the edge.
Some folks use the side too.
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2002
- Messages
- 3,930
Re: chakma getting scratched up
For the chakma to work properly it must be slightly harder than the edge being burnished/steeled. Unfortunately, many chakmas are not hard enough to get the job done (Uncle Bill has mentioned that the kardas and chakmas are usually made by apprentices, the kamis focus their skills on making great khukris). If you haven't already done so, try using the edges of the chakma. For some reason they're usually harder and more scratch resistant than the flats.
Using a chakma is fairly simple once you get the hang of it. The fastest way to learn is to get out some inexpensive kitchen knives and use them to practice on. They usually have soft enough blades that the chakma will do a real job on them, and once you see how the chakma is supposed to work it's easy to apply the skills you've learned to keeping your khuk touched up. The FAQ is loaded with khukuri sharpening information, but the two most important things to remember about chakmas are; 1. The chakma must be harder than the edge it's being used on (there are threads in the forum where Rusty and others talk about making chakmas by carefully grinding down old files), and 2. A chakma will "re-align" an edge that was previously sharp, but it's not the best choice for sharpening a knife that's truly dull, here you'll want to use an abrasive like a diamond hone, ceramic rod, or even a smooth file and some fine grit sandpaper if that's all you've got.
Khukuris use their weight and blade curvature to great advantage for chopping and draw cuts. No need to get caught in the common pitfall of trying to turn a khukuri into a straight razor. If it's sharp enough to do it's job, how much sharper does it need to be?
Sarge
For the chakma to work properly it must be slightly harder than the edge being burnished/steeled. Unfortunately, many chakmas are not hard enough to get the job done (Uncle Bill has mentioned that the kardas and chakmas are usually made by apprentices, the kamis focus their skills on making great khukris). If you haven't already done so, try using the edges of the chakma. For some reason they're usually harder and more scratch resistant than the flats.
Using a chakma is fairly simple once you get the hang of it. The fastest way to learn is to get out some inexpensive kitchen knives and use them to practice on. They usually have soft enough blades that the chakma will do a real job on them, and once you see how the chakma is supposed to work it's easy to apply the skills you've learned to keeping your khuk touched up. The FAQ is loaded with khukuri sharpening information, but the two most important things to remember about chakmas are; 1. The chakma must be harder than the edge it's being used on (there are threads in the forum where Rusty and others talk about making chakmas by carefully grinding down old files), and 2. A chakma will "re-align" an edge that was previously sharp, but it's not the best choice for sharpening a knife that's truly dull, here you'll want to use an abrasive like a diamond hone, ceramic rod, or even a smooth file and some fine grit sandpaper if that's all you've got.
Khukuris use their weight and blade curvature to great advantage for chopping and draw cuts. No need to get caught in the common pitfall of trying to turn a khukuri into a straight razor. If it's sharp enough to do it's job, how much sharper does it need to be?
Sarge
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2001
- Messages
- 20,978
Sarge, et al...
Here's a laugh at my expense:
While in Guatemala, after purchasing my first "worker" machette, I set about to put an edge on it with a small triangle file.
I was at it for 6 hours straight
I took it from dull as a 2x4 to quite sharp.
...after my hand healed
I decided to go out and make a handle for the file...
(the things you do when you're young and stupid...good thing I had "energy" back then...)
Here's a laugh at my expense:
While in Guatemala, after purchasing my first "worker" machette, I set about to put an edge on it with a small triangle file.
I was at it for 6 hours straight
I took it from dull as a 2x4 to quite sharp.
...after my hand healed
I decided to go out and make a handle for the file...(the things you do when you're young and stupid...good thing I had "energy" back then...)
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- Jun 4, 2002
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- 3,930
Good one Pen! While I appreciate the humor of your story, for some reason the palm of my hand near the thumb joint started aching just reading it. Handles on files are a good thing I think.
Sarge
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- Mar 5, 1999
- Messages
- 34,096
Some funny stuff and thanks.
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2002
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- 544
I used 1500 grit sandpaper for wetsanding the horn handle. I'm really starting to love turtle wax. I have the horn, brass, and blade all waxed. I guess I might as well go the whole nine yards and get some shoe polish for the leather. I used the chakma and the edge is harder than the side so I was able to get results, it did still scratch the chakma a little bit though.
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- Jun 4, 2002
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Good old Kiwi boot polish does work, but it has a drawback. You can buff and buff and buff, but it still wants to rub off on your pants leg if you do a lot of walking with the khuk on your belt. Not as big of an issue if you keep your khuk lashed to your ruck, but still something to be aware of. Just about any good leather dressing will work, so go with what works best for you.
Sarge
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2001
- Messages
- 5,946
Walosi's groupies use Lexol.
- Joined
- Mar 5, 1999
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- 34,096
I've been using Kiwi for 50 years, too. About 50 years ago I was aboard the USS Warrington headed for Carribean ports of call on sort of a wood will tour.