Thanks to Jerry Fisk

go ahead and post it - I don't know who asked originally, but I'm all for learning new things.
 
Oh please do.

Much knowledge to be gained here, I'm ready.

:scribbles notes:

Moose
 
Moosez, just move this testing portion to where you need it to go if you want.

A good way to test if the edge is too thin......go to walmart or Petsmart and buy a rawhide chew bone. Them rascals are rolled up tight rawhide. Chop that in half, try to do it in one blow. If the edge is too thin it will wrinkle the edge. On occasions they can chip one out but that can be from the board underneath as well.
Now after chopping do not resharpen before this next portion. Take a 1/4 inch square piece of masking tape. Tape the thread to a ciggerate paper, like you would roll your cigs with, hang the thread on something so the thread and paper just dangles in the air. You should be able to...with practice.... slice all the way across the cig paper without a tear in it.

Now there are some things that you will need to remember. One, Kabar has got the heat treatment down pat on the BKT pieces. However this above test can and often does damage a knife so it may void the warrenty.

What you have to look for when testing did you get the convex edge right is by looking at the blade.
If a blade rolls over during some hard test, the edge is a bit soft, if it chips out it is normally a bit hard. If it wrinkles, then the heat treatment is just right but is a bit then so when you go back to convex raise it just a bit higher to get a tad more convex than you had last time. {Thats the hundred dollar tip}
If the knife is right on all of these things then it will do it just fine. I would suggest get a few chew bones and lightly chip around on the first one to make sure the wrinkles do not appear, if so then roll it a big higher as we just discussed. Chip harder and harder to were you can cleave one of them puppies in half. Now remember, they do have different size chew bones for different size knives. ha. Not only does the chew bone tell you about your convex grind but going right in and slicing the paper lets you know edge holding ablitity as well.
Yall try this one and I will have you another to skin in a few weeks.
 
Tomorrow I'm going to start a thread with all the vids and info you provide us in it, Mr. Fisk. We can keep them all together, and have spot for you.

Thank you for all this, its real good stuff.

Moose
 
I think you will really enjoy having a go at this one.
I have a couple of sneaky ones in the bag as well. :)
 
Ordered one of the 1" x 2" x 8" coarse/fine Norton India stones today. This one...

41m2qo7UZpL._AA500_.jpg


From the Manufacturer
IB8 Combination India bench oilstones have 2-Grit on opposite sides of each stone, reducing the cost of owning a variety of grit sizes for sharpening. Coarse India at on one side is a medium cutting rate man-made sharpening stone for fine edges. Use to sharpen dull edges quickly. Fine India is used to provide a fine edge. Use to restore slightly dulled cutting edges and enhance the finish left by medium and coarse crystolonat or and India at stones. Norton India oilstones are manufactured using a proprietary process that impregnates them with a petroleum based product that allows the lubrication used during the sharpening process to stay on the stone's surface. As a result, the metal from the object being sharpened and small pieces of abrasive that break off the stone become suspended in the lubricant. This prevents these materials from imbedding into the sharpening stone's surface, keeping it free cutting and making it easy to keep its surface clean.
 
[video=youtube;DzBSjQFWyhM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DzBSjQFWyhM[/video]
Here is a video of Mr. Fisk teaching the belt grinder/stone combo.
 
Ordered one of the 1" x 2" x 8" coarse/fine Norton India stones today. This one...

41m2qo7UZpL._AA500_.jpg

Funny, I "ordered" one from our tool crib recently. Of course I keep it at work.

I never would have thought about wd-40 on the stone, but it makes a huge difference!
 
Funny, I "ordered" one from our tool crib recently. Of course I keep it at work.

I never would have thought about wd-40 on the stone, but it makes a huge difference!

I have a 9" india, that I put in a bucket of mineral oil, and let it soak. Man, that thing will throw an edge on a knife, damn.

Moose
 
Dang, I overpaid a bit. I just got my SMKW catalog and saw how cheap they had 'em.
Well, with TN sales tax plus SMKW shipping, mine wasn't that much more.
It came yesterday, and I put a kickass edge on one of our chef's knives.

Oh, since this is a Fisk thread, just a reminder...

P1030086.jpg
 
Well, I have one of the 11.5" two-sided Norton stones but mine is still plenty orange on the top because I tend to take a diamond stone to it to make sure it's flat and clean. (I'll be stopping that nonsense now.) :)

I picked up some Simple Green over the weekend and went to work on a few knives and it definitely works wonders and leaves a nice toothy edge.

I just got a BK-3 and BK-5 in the mail on Saturday so now I can get to setting those edges using the technique in the video.

B
 
This method produces better edge for my uses than other methods....The edge bites and slices meat and soft materials like crazy!Before I used to polish my edges too much so it would push cut well but would slide off soft materials.Polished is good for chopping, but toothy edge performs well with almost anything!Thx mr.Fisk!
 
Just out of curiosity, does anyone know what grit belt Jerry Fisk was using on Ethan's square wheel belt grinder?
 
As a matter of fact, watching Mr. Fisk caused me to rethink my entire method of grinding. The way I learned it (from a well known maker that specializes in convex grinds), was edge up and a precise hold on the angle (lots of practice) and taking it down to 9 microns. Makes a stupid sharp polished edge. Mr Fisk told me an edge such as that will slide right across a rope without cutting it, while his method yields a toothier edge that will cut it clean. I tried it. He's right. I'm now a convert.
 
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seems everyone polishes edges way too much.............its not good for anything else besides shaving and wood carving......thats just my opinion......the edge that slides sucks......hair whittling doesnt mean squat ....
 
seems everyone polishes edges way too much.............its not good for anything else besides shaving and wood carving......thats just my opinion......the edge that slides sucks......hair whittling doesnt mean squat ....

ah, i see, you prefer what we call "saws" :)
 
I was cutting some wild game meat this morning with hair whittling polished edge and it did much worse than toothy edge finished on stone......push cutting is ok but edge finished on coarser stone slices and push cuts better!!!I am not going with polished edges no more except for choppers or straight razors!
 
I've been intrigued by this since I watched the videos when originally posted. I tried using the only stone I have (Norton Tri-hone combo Arkansas stone) but didn't achieve the desired results I think in large part because I had not thinned or convexed the edge with a belt sander.

Two questions for those who were there to see Mr. Fisk work in person, or who've even just tried this method yourself...

  1. What's the best way to do "thin the edge" without a belt sander? Or is it even possible/ worthwhile?
  2. What edge angle is Mr. Fisk using on the India stone in the sharpening video, approximately?
 
Hey yall. We are finally back on the internet after the lighting strike. I still have not been able to recover any emails since before thanksgiving but they are now thinking that they can recover most of them in a few days times. What a mess.

Thanks Boki. I like this edge for an overall type of cutting. I only like polished edges for shaving. I used a straight razor for years and the polished edge is just better for that. I think you will find the "hungry" type edge will work better for chopping also.

CCMI, yes you can do it without a belt sander but not as effective. I have gotten the same results with a lot of filing but that was before the blade was heat treated. If possible you can draw file the blade long ways from tip to guard and convex it but you better carry your dinner bucket. If nothing else try to get one of them little 1x42 sanders down at Harbor Freight. You can pick up enough cans on the side of the road to pay for one of those with time and it will work reasonable.
As for as angle, thats hard to say, I am just guessing it is about a 20 degree. Maybe just a tad less. You always want as narrrow as you can stand because the resistance is less in your cut.
I have paid attention and I guess you can say I was studying why and how something cuts. You might call me a cutoligist. When we had the gathering I think I tried to explain how even the spine of the knife effects a deep cut, that is a cut that is wider than the blade. Lots to this cutting other than just banging on it the way I first thought was all that was to it.
 
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