The “Melee” Knife

Archer Here

Archer Here

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Nov 2, 2008
Messages
1,323
I have a question, if somebody wants to answer, after the last couple days of chaos… If you notice on my knife, at the back of the blade and front of the handle on the bottom, you’ll see a hole with a wedge shape cut out. Mines a little larger than most, but I’ve seen it on survival and tactical knives and liked the way it looked. So I put it in this one. Even though I did it for looks, I’d still like to know what it’s for. I thought I saw Rambo cut barb wire with it, but I don’t see how.

Didn’t have time to do a video for this one. Just pictures. I put a welt in the sheath as suggested, as well as 4 hidden pins on each side.

Pictures of the finished knife.
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If you don't know what it's for, why would you put it there? It looks like a stress-riser to me; meaning, a great place for the blade to break.

Not tryin' to rain on your parade, bro, but you asked. Concentrate on building blades that cut well, and leave the Rambo stuff for the crap they sell in BudK catalogs and mall stores. Cutting wire is best accomplished with a pair of dykes.
 
I think it's for pulling nails out of your foot, should you happen to step on one. ??
 
I put a similar notch to be used as a wire cutter in the butt end of a knife I made for a "real" cowboy that rode wire and stuff on a daily basis. The notch had to have very square shoulders and was a close fit to barb wire size. You slip the wire in the notch and lever the knife over and it snaps the wire. You can't cut concertia wire with a cutting notch, that's just movie fancy.

Noticed the welt in the sheath :thumbup:
 
it's more of a wire breaker than a wire cutter. If you have a tensioned wire (as in a wire fence), you can place the notch over the wire, torque the knife and break the wire. Obviously wouldn't work too well with loose wire or even coiled wire (like razor wire rolls). And it works best as stated, if closely sized to fit the wire you're breaking.

I read through the post the other day, and I see both sides of the coin. On one hand you have yourself, enjoying what you're doing in making a knife and just being creative...enjoying the whole process. On the other hand, you have knife enthusiasts and makers who are striving to perfect their craft. When the two meet, they're not always eye-to-eye. I think you are interested in pursuing improving your craft, and your knives have improved over time. I encourage you to keep making knives, and keep pursuing a new level of perfection with each one. As for grinds, geometry is big when it comes to cutting performance. An axe doesn't have to shave, so I see your point when it comes to big choppers and thick grinds. However, most knives will be used to perform other tasks as well, so pursuing a slightly higher and thinner grind will greatly improve your blade's performance in normal duty tasks while still performing as well, if not better, in chopping. And with the thick stock you're using, it will hold up fine if well heat treated.

Keep at it, Chris. Make each one better than the last. Eventually, you'll see the points some of the others have been trying to make and maybe feel the same way, even if the way it was said wasn't the most gentle.

--nathan
 
I have seen bayonets that have a similar notch that mates with a steel pivot on the sheath that turns them into small shears that cut wire very nicely.
 
fod said:
I have seen bayonets that have a similar notch that mates with a steel pivot on the sheath that turns them into small shears that cut wire very nicely.
Click to expand...

That's what bangalores, miclics (can't remember the acronym) and engineer support is for. :p If you're really lucky you can find some hard charging 19 year old Rangers to lead the way and do a Ranger wire ladder for you :p :p The wire cutting function on the M9 bayonet (IIRC) is horrible at best and a good way to wear concertia wire all over your arms and upper torso at worst.
 
Hi Friend,

I could probably invent many uses for both the round pegged notch in the ricasso area as well as those along the spine. Most of them would probably involve prying by using leverage against the blade. That might be self defeating for the blade though, as that big notch seems like it would make the blade more vulnerable to failure to lots of leverage forces across the blade right there.

I see your passion coming forward loud and clear in the overall design and execution though. Good going putting hidden pins in the handle. Have you thought of a thong hole toward the end of the handle? It is not uncommon to have a wrist strap option for heavy chopping work. I believe its required for the cutting competitions, for instance. Are you thinking about your knife possibly doubling as a spear tip too? It looks like that might have been in mind with the blade shape.

Keep it up (as if you wouldn't). Looking good.

All the best, Phil
 
When I'm in Nepal, the kukhri shops/salesmen always refer to the notch on kukhris, which are similar to yours - only smaller, as a blade breaker. Perhaps there is a technique one can use to catch and break their opponent's blade with the notch when fighting, perhaps with larger fighters.

I always thought they were nuts, because I've done enough failure testing on my own blades to know that it would be difficult without leverage. However, it could he a hold over from times when they didn't have access to high quality steel and blades were easier to break. Today, it might simply be a decorative notch that once had a purpose.

The application is probably wrong, but that is what I have been told by many knife salesmen while traveling overseas. Kukhris are for defense, so it could be plausable.
 
Thanks guys. I appreciate the detailed information. Thought you all would know.

Chris
 
Well I was hoping you intended it as a bottle opener, Its to big for a wire breaker and on the wrong side for a Spanish notch.
 
Your blade has a good tactical shape and is finished nicely but one thing about a real tactical fighter i.e. a blade you intend to stick in a human being or any animal, the blade needs to be free of all the notches on the back of the blade. Any notch or such, like on the Rambo blades will hang up on ribs and sternum or even muscle and tendons. To dispatch a person trying to do you harm you need multiple strikes in and out fast unless you can sever the vessels in the throat or clavical notch and you still have a fight on your hands.
 
Wow...the harbringer of death visits. :D I doubt the indended purpose of the knife is to stab humans, but those are good thoughts when it comes to a knife purpose built for killing.

--nathan
 
Since it's called the melee knife, I think it's probably supposed to represent a knife for killing people. That being said, he's not here asking for advice on the knife.
 
Yeah, the notch is canted the wrong direction for catching a blade. Also, without a guard there isn't much protection against the opponent's weapon.

I like the bottle opener idea, though.

BJ :)
 
Ah....my thinking cap wasn't on for some reason when it came to associating the name of the knife to the purpose. I was just looking at the knife itself. :) My melee knives are really really small. You know, less to weigh me down as I run away from the melee.

--nathan
 
Chris thats my favorite so far!!! I like the higher grind lines, that thing makes me wanna go out in the woods and chop some s#@t!!!
 
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