The 1911-A1 - I want one Bad!

Chris, that's not a regular Springfield, but one of their custom Trophy Matches. I owned one years ago and loved it. It's a tricked out custom at a great price. Those aren't really made to carry, per se. Those sights, and the beavertail grip make it awkward. Those were meant for competing in IPSC with. I wish I didn't have to sell it after my divorce or I'd still have it.

I've found with guns that you can always find someone who'll say "I heard those were bad because they jam, etc...". I've been told that those Springfield Trophy Matches aren't worth the money for various reasons by someone while I was standing there with it in my hand. I never had any problems with mine and this guy was telling me how they jam, and get loose quickly, blah blah blah. Kimber's pistol aren't unique to that claim. I've heard that about Colts, Glocks, Springfield's; actually everyone. But I don't beleive you have to spend the cash on a Les Baer to get a good 1911. I've grown partial to Kimbers lately, but that's all base on hearsay too. :p ;)
 
I have two colt officer 1911 from WWII one has had the barrel switched with a competition barrel other than that they are both in original condition, been in my safe a long time but maybe its time for them to find another home. I have an Ithica (spelling) 1911 I put packmyer grips on it and shoot it once in a while It's built like a tank but its also heavy like one as well. I like it and will keep it just to have it but these are not my first choice guns.
 
I think those guns are rising in price every year, Azis, and I'd be careful about selling them just now. I think the market is really growing on old 1911's



munk
 
I have not kept up and don't really have a fix on their value I would do some research first, and in the meantime they don't take up that much space.
I got a good deal on mags for them last year and bought 20 of them...now I wonder what was I thinking?
 
that's the kind of stuff I used to do..and still do. You get all this support stuff for weapons you never use.

I have about 3 spare mags for 1911's and I'll never get to those...
I had mags for AR's, (still do and don't even have a AR at present) mags for M14's...AK's...

Here's my holster story from a gun mag article many years ago which i read and enjoyed:

Kid asks the Old Timers anxiously about which holster is going to fit his new gun best. He studies the issue, listens to the old men, and goes out and buys his holster.

" I didn't have the heart to tell him he'd end up with a box full of holsters and gun rugs, just like the rest of us" Says one of the old men.


munk
 
wildmanh said:
If it's still avaliable and a good price, I wonder if I should get it, or a GI model..... Maybe start simple (GI model) then go up or maybe start big? What do you guys think?
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I got a stainless Kimber about 7 - 8 years ago and it has been a good gun. Initially it was jamming because the frame/slide fit was a bit tight, but I put some J&B Bore cleaner on the rails and that smoothed it out - haven't had a problem since.

John Paul of JP Enterprises (http://www.jprifles.com/) told me there was nothing he could do to a Kimber to make it shoot any better than the way it came out of the box, but it isn't quite a bullseye gun the way it is.

There isn't anything wrong with the GI version though. My bullseye gun was made it 1914 and will shoot 1.5" - 1.75" consistently at 50 yards from a Ransom rest. It took a little work to get it that way, but this goes to show they can improve with age.
 
tjarlz,
I don't think it is, maybe when I get a chance I will take a photo and post it. That might be a good idea anyway to get some info on it I am sure there are people here that know a lot about these. I tried to get the date from the serial number and model number from a web sight a while back but could not determine the actual date.
 
I had a Norinco version of the 1911; slide was rather tight and the trigger a bit heavy & scratchy (but I like single-action triggers to be heavy). I took it to a smith, had the slide rails/guides polished mirror-smooth, ditto the sear/hammer bearing surfaces. No other mods; I distrust 'racegun' triggers and the factory grip fits me just dandy. -And oooooooh-hoo-hoo, did that thing shoot with sweetness! I never bought another pistol after that except a Remington BP revolver.
But money got tight and (fool that I was!!) I upped and sold that Norinco. Every year on the anniversary of that sale, I light a candle to its memory and flick myself on the head really hard as a penance.
Okay, that's not true about the penance. But I still wish to goodness I'd never sold the pistol.
http://itmightbeart.typepad.com
 
munk said:
Chris, what do you mean you need an allen wrench to disassemble?

Does anyone know if Kimber's frames are forged or cast or have models of both? It's not clear to me.


Jurrasic, by 'front strap' do you mean the surface of the grip below the trigger guard facing towards the muzzle? Or the surface of the grip below the hammer against your palm?

munk
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The reference to an allen wrench is only for those pistols with a 2-piece full-length guide rod for the recoil spring to ride on. Browning didn't think it was necessary. Those who have one use the wrench to take the front half of their guide rod out from the muzzle end prior to normal disassembly.

Kimbers are cast, good metallurgy, excellent frames.

The front strap is the surface below the triggerguard for wrapping your fingers around. Believe me, your offhand (using one or both) shooting will improve dramatically with the extra control afforded by checkering. You can check out the effect of such a change before spending your money, by taking off the grip panels, wrapping a sheet of medium coarse sandpaper, coarse side out, around the front of the grip (toward muzzle) snuggly, then hold in place with the grips snugged down 'chimp tight'...not 'gorilla tight'. Make sure none of the sandpaper sticks out to the rear or contacts any part of the mechanism. The pistol wil not twist around on you between shots. Remove sandpaper after you have tried a few magazines full, to avoid sand somewhere you don't want. 30 lpi is better than 25 lpi
 
On my CZ. with no checkering I have applied some self adhesive skateboard tape. Poor man's checkering, and isnt too coarse.
DaddyDett
 
1911 is always a great buy, every gun cabinet should have one. I would get one with extended beavertail grip safety myself, but that varies by hand and grip. Perosnally though, due to how much meat I have between thumb and pointer, and the fact that my smaller hands require holding up a bit higher on grip than some people (or maybe it's nothing about hands but jsut way I shoot), I have a tendency to get hammer bite shooting 1911s. Sadly, I had to sell mine (actually an Argentine Systema/Model 1927), but I will replace it someday.
 
etp777 said:
Sadly, I had to sell mine (actually an Argentine Systema/Model 1927)
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Could that be the 'Ballester-Molina' model? The B-M was made (I'm told) of high-grade German steel salvaged from the sunken Graf Spee. It made a musical ringing sound when one racked the slide. If yours was that same model, then I feel foolish for lamenting the loss of my Norinco.

http://itmightbeart.typepad.com
 
Kimber are for the most part(frame,slide, some small parts) MIM (metal injection molding). A unique process that that is a bit more involved than common casting processes(raw material prep and additional mfg steps). It is a sound process though, if executed correctly and each step is controlled accurately.
 
so would you say kimber executes it correctly and controls each step accurately? as namaarie stated, they are probably the most complained about 1911's and i'd pay for a tactical custom2 if not for all the grief. one gorgeous pistol.
 
Can't remember which one it was without digging out some Info at home. Argentina built two different 1911-ish pistols over the yeras (I guess they're probably closer to original 1911s than a lot of guns carrying that name today). Mine was the less desirable of the two. Nothing special, just a great, reliable little piece with a bit of history. think it was 350 or so a few years ago at a gun show.
 
You should check out the Springfield Mil-Spec model before you buy that GI. It is a slight step up from the GI. I actually purchased mine brand new for $460. I wouldn't buy that Rental GI for that much when they can be had new for close to $425.

The Mil-spec has a few improvements like better 3 dot sights, a beveled magazine well, lowered ejection port, angled slide serrations, polished feed ramp and throated barrel. It is probably the best bang for the buck in 1911's going right now. It features a forged frame and slide and mine even came with a stainless one piece barrel and a stainless barrel bushing. An awesome base pistol in it's own right, or you can customize it to suit your preferences. Here is a link to the Mil-Spec on Springfield's site,

http://www.springfield-armory.com/armory.php?model=7
 
Kimber has had Q.A./Q.C. issues in the past with MIM parts, but not to the extreme. Over the last two or three years they have improved greatly. I would say that they are at least on par with Remington's MIM quality level. Not the best in the industry but good. Knowing this, a problem will still slip through the quality assurance net occasionaly, as is the case with practicaly any manufacturer.

I feel they are still a little overpriced, personally. And the stainless they use could be a little better. But good firearm all the same.

My current carry( and some will laugh at this) is a standard Rock Island 1911 GI model with the only upgrades I have done on it consist of a 18lb recoil spring, polished feed ramp, polished hammer/sear. Total $ = 320.00 (i did the upgrades myself)
Over 4000rnds so far and maintains 2'' at 10yds for 16 shot group when I do my part. It hammer bites some times, no BIG deal to me. I will get around to fixing that some day. Dan Wesson,Sprg Fld, Kimber all stay home most of the time.
 
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