Awaking in one of the old travelling salesmens’ rooms on the second storey of Koroit’s iconic Mickey Bourke’s Hotel, I dressed and pocketed Pearl, and headed down to breakfast and plan some destinations for the day.
Mickey Bourke’s Hotel is a fine old Art Deco country pub, with a long association with Irish culture and Australian writers. Built in 1853, by David McLaws, a Scots pioneer carpenter, the Art Deco facade was added later.
The eagle eyed among you may have already spotted the self deprecating ‘7 Course Irish Menu’ advertised on the blackboard next to the door - which is comprised of 6 pints and a potato!
Bruce Murley, the genial publican, who owns and runs the house with his personable wife Wendy can afford this kind of humour, because they run an excellent kitchen, turning out top notch pub fare.
The pub plays host to Irish folk music sessions during the annual Lake School of Celtic Music and the Koroit Irish festival.
The writer Etta Richardson who wrote under the pen name
Henry Handel Richardson stayed here, and her mother was the local Postmistress, just over the road, for a while.
The author
Frank Hardy was also born nearby, and drank here.
The purpose of this odd ‘shelter’ would be sure to be a curiosity to many kids today:
And maybe soon, this will too:
Walking up the main street, there are plaques commemorating some of the ‘folk history’ of the town:
This plaque relates some older history of the area:
We shall return to take a closer look at one of the remarkable members of the ‘Fighting Gunditjmara’, as they were known by the early European farmer-settlers here, later on.
Nicolas Baudin, the French naval officer, explorer, naturalist and cartographer was the first European to chart
Tower Hill from his ship, the
Geographe, in 1802.
Baudin, is a fascinating character in his own right - a ‘commoner’ who rose through the ranks to Captain. The
Baudin New Holland Expedition described over 2500 species, new to science.
The first settlers in the area were essentially rogue whalers and farmers from Van Diemens Land (Tasmania) in the 1830s, looking to expand their operations.
Whalers and sealers from the ship
The Fairy, based out of Launceston used a nearby bay, which later became a whaling station, then one of Australia’s largest whaling ports - known as Belfast from the mid to late nineteenth century, before reverting in 1887 to its original name of Port Fairy.
William Rutledge was one of the first generation of settlers who basically grabbed as much land as they could when the British government in Sydney retroactively recognised the settlements, and then parcelled it off to people on 14 year leases with the condition that they cleared and ploughed the land. Later, many of these characters would become the absentee landlords of the area.
Rutledge sent produce back to his home, Ireland, and brought back new tenant farmers from Cork, Clare and Tipperary on the return trip.
Once many of these farmers had worked through their 14 year leases, they looked to buy their own allotments, and in the 1850s began to purchase land and set up potato and onion farms on the rich soils of the north slope of the Tower Hill volcanic caldera.
Although the area was also farmed by people from northern England and Scotland - two of the nearby hamlets are called Kirkstall and Crossley: Yorkshire names, I believe - the character and the look of the faces in the area seems decidedly Irish.
And of course among the torrent of people fleeing the Irish Potato Famine, there were more than a few like Patrick Sheedy. Born in Tipperary in 1815, he was sentenced to Transportation for 15 years in 1845, for ‘attempting to ambush a party of police’.
Sheedy later escaped Van Diemen’s Land, and was next arrested at the Battle of the Eureka Stockade, the culmination of the period of civil disobedience on the Ballarat Goldfields in Victoria, now known as the
Eureka Rebellion. He eventually worked for a farmer in Koroit then settled nearby, raising a prominent Victorian family.
Even today, many groups use the Eureka ‘Southern Cross’ flag as a alternative Australian flag.
It's certain that for many of the
Irish women, who dyed and sewed the original flag from their own undergarments, the Southern Cross had Irish Republican connotations.
During World War I, a call went out for all ‘Britishers’ to do their duty.
Special Recruiting Trains with politicians and bands travelled to each country town on the rail-lines to recruit young Australians for the first Australian Imperial Forces (AIF).
In Koroit, an attitude of
‘Let Englishmen Fight English Wars’ very much prevailed.
When the recruiting train arrived, it was met with a hail of eggs ‘in every stage of decay’. Despite this, one hardy soul stepped forward to take the King’s Oath. It was recorded that the Premier of Victoria angrily cut short his planned speech and said he was ‘ashamed of the people of Koroit’.
Considering the townspeoples’ response to the later Conscription Referendum, the Premier, a Mr
Peacock, may consider himself to have gotten off lightly.
The local Member for Parliament in the electorate was also the Chairman of the Conscription League, and when he went to present his case at a mass meeting in Koroit, the resulting fracas was reported in one of the Melbourne newspapers under the banner headline: ‘Mob Assails Chairman - Threats of Hanging’!
After fleeing the town on a ‘jinker’ cart, being ‘pelted with metal’ the recruiting Sergeant who was with the speakers for the Pro Conscription Case (the local MP still had a buggy trace hanging round his neck, fastened while someone had gone looking for a rope) commented that he’d rather be ‘in the trenches, they are safer than that’.
Later, when the same Member of Parliament tried to hold another pro Conscription rally at nearby Crossley, it ended with six local men being charged and later convicted of ‘having acted in an offensive manner’.
A Sergeant Matthews gave evidence that as soon as the meeting was about to commence, a number of men drowned out the MP with what he called ‘a Killarney yell - which makes a terrible noise.’
These meetings took place in the immediate aftermath of the failed
Easter Rising in Dublin.
Here’s a couple of pics which record the event in West Belfast today.
One from the Falls Road:
And another from Beechmount Avenue, aka ‘RPG Avenue’:
Like the people of West Belfast, I suppose it would be true to say the citizens of Koroit have a fairly strong sense of community identity!
As we walked past the 20 acres of botanic gardens, there was a car and truck show going on in the football grounds where the Australian code is usually played, based on a combination of Gaelic football and a fast flowing Aboriginal game called Marngrook.
Here is a ‘29 Pontiac IIRC.
1934 Plymouth PE DeLuxe:
Some fine Bel-Airs:
The advent of motoring slowly opened up the ability to travel to Melbourne in a day, although it was still very rare for anyone to do so in the 1920s.
One of the first motorists to do so was asked on his return, how he dealt with the traffic lights in Melbourne. He scoffed ‘Lights?
What lights? I drove through the city in the daytime, didn’t I!’
Another motorist politely stopped at every intersection in Melbourne to shake hands with the traffic policemen on point duty!
One of the local doctors who was known for both prescribing ‘a good stiff dram’ for most ailments, and getting into his own remedies quite keenly; provided the local motor Ambulance with its first patient, when he knocked James Johnson off his bicycle, while speeding down the main street in his motor car in 1915.
Near the show, there is the oldest surviving National School building in Victoria. These buildings were based on an Irish design: the building was shaped like an H, with a classroom on each side, and the Schoolmasters residence in the middle.
The local Historical Society now occupies the building. I had a fascinating, broad ranging conversation there with Andrea, one of the members.
JP
Jolipapa
- I thought you might like this old ad from one of the local newspapers:
It’s not a Norton, but it’s still pretty cool!
Next: Into the Mouth of the Volcano!