The best CUTTING Axis lock folder.

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Sep 17, 2001
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Hey,

here's something to argue about. Sure we all hear about X Axis lock being the best tactical, or X axis lock being the best in this or that category.
Me? I really want a good axis lock BM, but I want it to be a very good cutter, so let's put it out there, what are the best CUTTING axis lock folders? (I am particularly soliciting opinions from those who own more than one axis folder and can really compare.)
 
I own or have owned the 940, 722, and the 806D2.
Out of these three my vote would go to the 806D2. The grind goes pretty far up the blade, leaving a nice, thin edge.
 
The only axis lock knife I have is the 550. The first Griptilian. It cuts as well as anything I've got. The edge doesn't hold up as well as some. but I can get it pretty sharp in comparison to others.
 
I'm a little biased considering that I only have one Axis, but on that account, I can say that my 551 cuts pretty darn well (not to mention that it has one of the most beautiful blades that I have ever laid eyes on).
 
I am particularly soliciting opinions from those who own more than one axis folder and can really compare.
I've had 2 940s, the 710HS, the 806, the 721, and used the 705.
710HS. 3.9" blade with a recurve, in a steel you can thin out without worrying so much about chipping. No contest.
 
I have the 710, 705 and 940. Of the three, the 710 cuts the best. In fact, the 710 stacks up as an awesome cutter no matter what knife you compare it to.
 
probably the 710, suprisingly, i like the 806 better, but the blade design of the 710 does work......

greg
 
I've got a 154CM 940, ATS-34 705, M2 705, M2 730, D2 AFCK, & M2 710. By far, the best cutting Axis lock, and the best cutting knife I own, is the M2 710. Not my favorite handle, but the blade cuts better than anything else.
 
I have a 720, 735, and 2 710s, one in each steel. The best is the M2 710, because the blade shape, steel and edge geometry. It has a nice recurve, and with the M2 steel it will tolerate a thinner higher performance edge without taking damage. Forget about the 15 or 20 degree settings on the Sharpmaker, take the edge down to 10 degrees or so unless you're cutting metal or just hard on edges.
 
Benchmade seems to put the same grind -- a flat sabre grind -- on all their knives. So the grind itself doesn't give any particular advantage from one to the other, although some knives do seem to have slightly higher grinds. Since the knives don't distinguish themselves by grind, you need to look at other factors: blade shape, handle, and steel.

On blade shape, obviously different shapes work better for different things. Generally speaking, a recurved blade excels at slicing, more than a non-recurved blade. That would favor the Axis 710. The AFCK's forward rake, while not as effective as a recurve, does enhance slicing ability.

The shape of the handle, how well it fits your particular hand, and well it's mated to the blade, also can significantly effect how a knife cuts. I don't think any of Benchmade's handles are particularly bad, in fact, by and large BM's handles all work very well for me. I feel the AFCK/TSEK handles are the ones that most improve cutting performance for me, in everything from light cutting to hard defensive-style cutting. The handles of the Ares, 710, various Pardue models, etc., all work very well for me, too.

For blade steel, for pure cutting ability, blade steel only becomes a really important factor if you take advantage of it in your sharpening plan. If you have two identical knives of 420HC and S30V, if sharpened at the same angle and grit, will all make one cut with about the same performance. Obviously, as you continue cutting, S30V's superior wear resistance, strength, etc. will pull away. But to really get the best out of a higher-end steel, you would take advantage of S30V's greater strength and toughness and sharpen it at a lower angle. Keeping with that same theme, I believe the M-2 and D-2 bladed knives will cut better, if you take advantage of those steels in your sharpening plan (that is, make the angle lower than you would with your 154-CM knives). That means 710 or Axis AFCK.

Putting it all together, I'd say the 710 will give you best pure cutting performance.

Joe
 
720 or 551 seem to work the best for me. I think because of the relatively high grind, once the primary (edge bevel) does the cutting, the secondary grind doesn't drag as much. Also, the 440C seems to cut pretty aggressively for a long time, although maybe not as long as the 154CM. It is almost a toss up.
 
I have or have owned a Mini Grip, 940, 770, and a 705. From my experiences, I prefer the Mini Grip. I like the handle and how comfortably I can cut with it. The MDP blade style is very utilitarian. I think you'll like it.
Matt
 
I'd also vote for the 710 in M2 steel. The 802 D2 comes in as a real close runner-up, however. It'll be interesting to see what BM does when S30V becomes a more or less industry "standard" made-for-knife steel. And it won't need that annoying black teflon coating.
 
Originally posted by OwenM

I've had 2 940s, the 710HS, the 806, the 721, and used the 705.
710HS. 3.9" blade with a recurve, in a steel you can thin out without worrying so much about chipping. No contest.


I agree 100%.
I also think Joe T nailed it when he wrote that taking advantage of the steel through proper edge geometery (which is also what Owen was writing) is the best way to take advantage of high end steels.

Chad
 
From the several Benchmades that I own, the 806D2 seems to be the best so far! I'm still waiting on the model 921 with the S30V steel!!
 
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