The best fixed blade camping knife for ME

There are still a couple of Chris Reeve Mountaineer 1 and 2s on Ebay. They have a hollow handle where you can store a compass, matches, fising line... They are high end one piece knives especially made for camping.
 
They have a hollow handle where you can store a compass, matches, fising line... They are high end one piece knives especially made for camping.

I read somewhere that the hollow handle survival knives don't have a tang (to speak of) and break easily if any lateral stress is applied. Is that true or a myth?
 
I have a Mountaineer 1 8 inch one piece A2 steel, can't imagine the stress it would take to break that. I have a Busse SAR 3 too, and they both are my favorite knives.
 
What do you do with your Leatherman tools? My LM Wave is about 9 years old, I never oil it, I carry it every day and I can't see a single speck of rust anywhere on it. It lives in a LM leather pouch on my belt, 24/7 in a leather pouch isn't supposed to be a good idea from what I have read - and yet no rust! I live in a humid country too (not rain forest humid or anything, but we get over 80% humidity often enough).

Gadgetaholic - I'm the same way. Been using my LM Charge for a while and it would look great if I cleaned the pocket lint, wood shavings, and drywall dust out of it! :D No rust on the west coast.

I envy you 2. :p

My LM PST, Pulse, Wave and Charge all rusted to some degree. My Micra hasn't yet...YET. But then again, it is used primarily for home and office.

My 12 year old Vic SwissTool still has no rust at all and my 1 year old Vic Spirit should fair equally well.

My use is very broad for my multi-tools. From various home improvement projects, quick fixes, camping, outdoor use in wet and dry and in all seasons. I live in Michigan which can get quite humid.
 
Ok. I've narrowed the choice down to the RC-4 or the RC-5. The ESEE warranty is unbeatable. I will probably be bringing this knife with me camping and hiking. It will hang upside-down (handle down) out of the sheath, so it needs to stay in there. I can't decide between the two. I've read several glowing reviews of both.
Everyone says the RC-4 is the perfect knife. The right size, not too heavy etc.
The RC-5 is a beast. Heavier, thicker, bigger. There is always the coolness factor to that.

I really want to avoid getting both right now, since they are around $100 or more. Can those of you who own them please comment about which you think I would be happy with? I know the RC-4 is probably enough knife for my needs, but I don't want to feel that I would have been better off with something a little beefier.

I have both. The 5 is just a beast and will scare a lot of people on a typical camping trip, but if you need the heft, you won't be sorry.

The 4 is probably your best choice out of the two. Lighter for carrying and if you're going to be lashing it to your pack, it might fit better than the 5. It won't do much less than the 5, but the 5 would be better for those HEAVY DUTY jobs that the 4 might just not make.

For me, the no questions asked warranty from ESEE is more about them believing so much in their own product that they will not ask questions (it's almost as if they feel embarrased that something went wrong - even if it was the user's fault) that they'll go overboard to make it right. Given that committment I'd rather personally replace a knife that I damaged by buying a new one to support the company that supports the user (and I wouldn't even tell them something went wrong).

For camping the 4 and an Izula would be an awesome combo, although I usually bring 3 Izulas, RAT-3, ESEE-4, HEST and will now be bringing my new ESEE-5 along as well.
 
I read somewhere that the hollow handle survival knives don't have a tang (to speak of) and break easily if any lateral stress is applied. Is that true or a myth?

Mostly true, they usually just have a handle simply bolted to the blade, especially the low end (cheap) Rambo styles. There are better high end hollow handles with the original, Randall Made, being very well regarded.

The CRK one piece line of hollow handles are the exception and unique because they are just that, forged from one solid piece of steel. They are no longer being produced.
 
I read somewhere that the hollow handle survival knives don't have a tang (to speak of) and break easily if any lateral stress is applied. Is that true or a myth?

For the most part, if it's a hollow-handled knife there won't be much tang (other than the tang of disappointment you feel when you break the blade).

I wanted one in the worst way after I first saw First Blood though. :rolleyes:
 
From your choices and needs, i'd go with the ESEE 5 and be free from worry about blade performance.

As you're getting more into this life-style, the small inconvenience of maintaining your gear will be insignificant to the higher performance you will come to expect. ALL gear needs some maintenance and oiling your knife is a small thing when you have complete confidence it what it can do for you.

The ESEE 5 is just that kind of knife. It was specifically designed by SERE Instructors - professional survival instructors who use survival gear and refine it as a vocation.

Otherwise, find some SS type blade and not be concerned as much b/c SS will also rust, just not as quickly.

EDIT: i didn't see that you were leaning to the ESEE 4 or 5.... Either one would serve you well, but a 5 mated w/an Izula would be a pretty nice package...
 
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Ok. I've narrowed the choice down to the RC-4 or the RC-5. The ESEE warranty is unbeatable. I will probably be bringing this knife with me camping and hiking. It will hang upside-down (handle down) out of the sheath, so it needs to stay in there. I can't decide between the two. I've read several glowing reviews of both.
Everyone says the RC-4 is the perfect knife. The right size, not too heavy etc.
The RC-5 is a beast. Heavier, thicker, bigger. There is always the coolness factor to that.

I really want to avoid getting both right now, since they are around $100 or more. Can those of you who own them please comment about which you think I would be happy with? I know the RC-4 is probably enough knife for my needs, but I don't want to feel that I would have been better off with something a little beefier.

2 very solid choices. As far as the kind of hiking you will be doing - is it long distances over rough terrain or backpacking? If is is long distance trekking or backpacking in the backcountry, the RC-5 may be too heavy and bulky. I use my BK-2 while camping but don't like to carry it on long hikes or backpacking just because it adds so much weight. I use my RC-4 or Izula for that. My BK-2 is ~16 oz. like the RC-5. The RC-4 is 7.5 oz., less than 1/2 the weight. Anyways, something to consider.
 
I just wanted to update the thread and let you guys know that I changed my mind one more time and got the Bark River Bravo-1 in A2 Steel. I ordered it with the Red Micarta handle first. When it arrived, I saw that the Red Micarta isn't really red, but more of a dark pinkish-red, or red-fuscia. I was disappointed, as the pictures online show the color to be red, and I didn't want to carry around a pinkish knife. The knife was sharp as hell though, and cut paper into slices easily, as well as the hair off of my arm.

After returning it to knivesshipfree.com (the process was pretty easy, I just had to pay for return shipping), I saw that they have a 20% restocking fee, or I could get full credit if I order another knife from their store. Not the best return policy, but it worked for me in the end.

They didn't have the handle color I wanted in A2 steel, so I started browsing the stainless steel Bravo-1's. I ended up with the Bravo-1 SS in Midnite Tiger G-10. When the knife came I was instantly impressed with it's quality and beauty. No pink handle for me! I wasn't as impressed with its sharpness however. While I could still take the hairs off of my arm, it does not slice paper nearly as well as the A2 knife did. Guys, does it just need more sharpening?

I don't know personally if the A2 steel is better than the CPM 154 stainless, but I do know that the edge of the stainless knife chipped or rolled over when I used it for it's first real task.... taking down a Mexican Fan Palm branch. I now have 3 nice little dings in my new knife. =( I know this isn't a "chopping" knife, but I really wanted to test the knife and wouldn't consider taking down a palm branch to be abuse given the thickness. I'm hoping that some simple stropping will fix the edge up. Maybe I should have waited for an A2 in the color I like? I couldn't give the A2 a real test since I had to return it.

I saw some of you guys recommending a convex sharpening system that you could buy that came with the sandpaper and mousepad-like surface. What is it called again?
 
that would be the JRE EMS system. I rolled the edge of mine, and that prompted me to learn how to sharpen it, instead of waiting for it to get dull. I kinda roughed it up a bit, but its now just as sharp as it was, if not sharper.

from what I've read, A2 is a tougher steel, but the cpm154, has more corrosion resistance (I've had no problem with A2 rusting, here in Aus, simply wiping it with a tuff cloth every few months has kept it fine). However I have heard both steels should be quite tough.

EDIT: look at some posts in the maintenance, tinkering and embellishment forum, and maybe start a thread there if you can't find your answer, very helpful guys.
 
The Mountaineer 1, I own has A2 steel, and it is a very razor sharp blade. I was in the same situation you were in trying to decide b/w a Chris Reeve knife or a Busse. The Busse knife I was looking at was an INFI SAR 3 convex knife. I received both on the same day, and the A2 sharpness was much more razor sharp than the INFI blade. I was very impressed with the Mountaineer 1, A2 blade.

Chris Reeve made a very beautiful camping knife with their one piece knifes. My EDC or every day carry knife is the SAR 3. I bought the strop, but I will need some sandpaper so I can have everything I need to sharpen my SAR 3 convex blade.

With the Chris Reeve A2 blade, I bought the Spyderco Sharpmaker. The A2 blade on the Mountaineer 1 is straight fixed edge.

The Bark River has the best combination, A2 convex blade. Once I pay off my bills, I'll get one. Both of the knives I mentioned above are high quality knives. The SAR 3 fits my hand like a glove and its a pleasure to handle and carry on a daily basis. I just need to get it razor sharp, which may never be as razor sharp as my Mountaineer 1.

Both companies have lifetime warranties on their knives. Chris Reeve will resharpen and finish it for a small fee. I also heard Bark River will do the same.

I think its ok to buy two or three knives, make the investment and you will have a great set of knives for life.
 
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I saw that they have a 20% restocking fee, or I could get full credit if I order another knife from their store. Not the best return policy, but it worked for me in the end.

I saw that policy and was alarmed (for folders anyway) store credit is fine for competetive pricing but KSF's offerings are about the most expensive ($50 higher for a Benchmade) I've ever seen for folders other than the Sebenza which they sell at regular price.

Being lazy here, Does he charge such whacked prices on the Bark River Bravo-1's? If not, then you're golden on a swap out.

Heaven help you if you send a MAP priced knife back - like a Sebenza 21 and try to switch to say, a couple of Benchmades at their prices. :(

Glad you got your Bravo-1 straightened out. You'd be on one of the beer commercials - using your pink knife! :D
 
Yes, they are more expensive. I wouldn't have bought from there if they weren't the only place that had the color I originally wanted.... red. (not pink!)

Losing 20% and getting my money back wasn't as good of a deal as just using the credit they gave me. There was another unfotunate thing that happened, but the customer service person gave me a small additional credit. It ended up making the Stainless version about the same price as the other sites.

Btw, thanks again for the JRE EMS info.
 
raiz- most red micarta will darken considerably with use, I'm kind of sad you did not give it a try (red being my favorite color)

This
BUSSTRclosed.jpg


Turned to this in very little time (for future reference)
IMG_0620.jpg


Have fun with your new knife!
 
Sometimes the factory grind can taper too thin and will result in excessive deformations of the edge. This is easily corrected by sharpening at a slightly higher angle.
 
Most of Bark River knives are convex-ground, yielding an unusually dull looking hair popping edge that is easily maintained. My Gameskeeper - from which the Bravo-1 was developed, albeit of A-2 - is a great bushcraft knife - fully up to some limb removal. Nothing more than soft maple here, but up to the task, the wedge-like edge seeming to help splitting even if inappropriate for thin paper strip slicing, a hollow ground long & thin edge, like a Buck 110/119, actually being a better choice for that chore.

Derek Bohn, a member here, is a fine and fair knife seller - he'll treat you right - it's kind of a requirement of his main Vocation. The Barkies have a warranty, too - that knife may need a trip home for replacement, if the heat treat is off - it happens - could be causal for those chips & rollovers in light use - that shouldn't have happened.

I have had my natural micarta handled Gameskeeper, the knife that the Bravo-1 was based on, for >2.5 yr - a couple of touchups is all the A-2 convex edge has needed. I have a few nice Barkies - all bought with the 'less expensive' micarta or G10 handles - users. Nothing pink... not even for my wife. Gun grips and stocks can now be had in pink.

Only one 'upgrade' handled Barkie here - a Bocote Boone. As predicted, too pretty to want to use... much. My least appreciated Barkie is a Limited Edition North Star - nicked my forefinger the first time I used it - fluid transition from handle to edge - easy to do when your hands are wet. Nothing more than a paper cut - but still... No, I won't sell it - it's pretty! That's a problem with low production/custom quality knives. Same with my Benchmades!

Stainz

PS Nearly forgot - the ugo, but very functional, natural Micarta Gameskeeper - and too-pretty-to-use Bocote Boone:

IMG_0717.jpg


Kind of a 'Beauty and the Beast' huh?
 
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PS Nearly forgot - the ugo, but very functional, natural Micarta Gameskeeper - and too-pretty-to-use Bocote Boone:

IMG_0717.jpg


Kind of a 'Beauty and the Beast' huh?

I find the beast MUCH more appealing- but then again my wife thinks I'm attractive, proving either she's drunk (can't drink due to allergies) or beauty truly is in the eye of the beholder).;)
 
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