The bolsterless pocket knife.

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Oct 2, 2004
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I know there is an old time lore, I think I even read it in some early Knife publication by Jack Lewis and B.R. Hughs, that a pocket knife without bolsters is not as good as a pocket knife with bolsters. I only think of this now because of a post by our very own smiling-knife, poster of photos that we love to drool over.

I know from my earliest memories, my experience growing up on the eastern shore and the woods of central Maryland, I don't really recall seeing one of grandad's old watermen and quail hunting cronies with a pocket knife that did not have bolsters. Indeed, the time proven barlow design was thought to be stronger because of the longer bolsters.

Barlows, stockman, trappers, and most of the old patterns all had bolsters. And many of those knives stood up to some very hard use.

But what of the sodbusters?

I got my first soddie in the mid 80's, as a beater knife. It was an Eye-brand with yellow handles, and it took a heck of a hard knocking and came up no worse for wear. By the mid 1990's I had soddies from eye-brand, Case, Klass, F. Herder from Solingen, and they all were very solid knives. And everyone has a respect for the sak's made by Victorinox and Wenger as good values. No bolsters there either. Dare I say that sak's are most likely the worlds most traveled pocket knife, and choice of experienced adventurers on earth and space. They've been to the top of Mt. Everest to the depths of the sea with the crew of the Calyipso. Peter Hathaway Capstick likes sak's.

Where am I going with this?

We look at alot of those old pocket knives with nice handles of Mother Of Pearl, great English stag, but not a single bolster in sight, and we may make the mistake of thinking they were not used much. Maybe so. Maybe they only saw duty once in a while in some smoky drawing room in the hands of some Victorian gentleman. But maybe they were tougher than we think. Maybe those old cutlers had a handle on the why and how of things more than we know. If you really think of the mechanics of the thing, the forces of just cutting something does not put alot of force on a small pocket knife hinge unless you twist the knife in the cut.

The little Victorinox classic, and the lesson it tought me comes to mind. Before 1990 I would never have considered carrying such a dimutive little knife. I remember looking at them once long ago and kind of having a sneering attitude, like who would bother carrying a toy knife. Then came Village Settlements. This was a realestate settlement company Karen worked for as a reseptionist. They would buy all sorts of trinkets from these advertising companies with thier logo on them and hand them out to clients. Karen would bring home pens, little callculators, tape measures, AA plastic flashlights. Then one day she brought home a fake classic.

It was red, and had a white cross on it, but there the resemblence to a real sak ended. But Karen proudly gave it to me and not wanting to hurt her feelings, I put it on my keyring. The next day I bought a real classic and snuck it on my keyring. What I found out was, in some weird way, women are tuned into tiny, minute differences that we will never comprehend. Karen of course noticed right away. She said the color was different. The sak was a red, but Karen said the red made in China one had a hint of mauve in it. Go figure.

There was but one thing to do; point out the difference between them. Now Karen is not a real knife person. She knows she need a good knife, and she loves her green handle Frosts Mora in her purse. When she does not have her mora, she has her number 8 Opinel. It took very little for her to see the difference in workmenship and cutting. She promptly confiscated the real classic and onto her keyring it went.

Over the next year or so I would see her use that little knife for EVERYTHING! I was sure it would break, and that would be the last I'd see of it. I was wrong. For a year Karen used, abused, neglected, and punished that little knife. Once in a while she'd give it to me so I could sharpen it. Slowly I became converted, and a year and a half later I had new one on my keyring. Then there was the experiment.

No matter what I carried, I would always try to use the classic first if I had a cutting job to do. I was surprsed to the extent I did some rethinking of what was involved in cutting, and just what was needed. I figured my sodbusters took alot of heavy use because they had a more robust build, but the little classic was a puzzle. It held up to an amazing amount of heavy use that I thought would break it. Under those red handles are just a little rivit and brass bushing at either end. Apparently the design is stronger than we think.

Now I look at those old pearl and stag bolsterless pocket knives, and I think that those old Sheffield cutlers knew how to work the materials so as to make an ellegant knife, but not one that gives up alot in practical use. After all, a small knife is going to be used with a slicing or sawing motion, not cutting down saplings or skining an elephant. And I think shadow patter knives had thier day here in this country. Schrade made a nice yellow handle stockman in a bolsterless design.

Somehow I have a mental image of an English getleman walking through a field on a misty day, and flushes a nice phesent. He drops it neatly with his side by side Purdy, and taking a beautifull pearl pocket knife from his waistcoat pocket, opens and cleans the bird to cool properly. Back at the mannor house that same knife may pierce the end of a nice cigar to put a nice end to the day.

If only those old knives could tell us the stories.
 
Another excellent post, Jackknife.
You make a good point... I've always steered away from bolsterless knives, but then again maybe it's because I'm socialized to be drawn to an appearance of robustness - which may be simply marketing in many cases! Or something... I rarely abuse my tools these days, but I suppose I'm still getting over the ingrained tendency toward tools that I *could* abuse if I had to.

Ok, going back to my 7th beer now.... ;)
 
Interestingly enough, alot of bolsters nowadays are not really bolsters, but stuck on scales, or pinned on scales. Pretty irrelevent anymore I suppose, the bolsters.
 
it seems to me that the liners of the knife have a lot more to do with the strength of the knife than the bolsters. i always thought of bolsters as decoration more than anything.

personally, i use my tools as they are designed to be used. if they break, then they weren't built strong enough. i have yet to break a quality knife; SAK , opinel, case, etc.

i have broken the blade on a chinese SAK (from the early days as a boy) trying to whittle a bow out of a maple stave. it snapped right in half and flew like a propeller through the air.

anyways, i have never had an issue related to pivot pins and bolsterless designs. my only issues so far have to do with bad blades on cheap rippoff knives.

now that i think of it, when i first started looking at alot of the slipjoint patterns, i always thought that the sodbuster looked a little funny. after a while it occured to me that this was because it didn't have bolsters. interestingly enough, it seems that the sodbusters have exceptionally large pivot pins, or maybe that's just the wide ends of a rivet...maybe to compensate for a lack of bolsters?
 
I think that bolsters may have served to protect the scales as much as to strengthen the joints. Natural materials like wood, bone, and horn can chip or crack if dropped on a hard surface. With materials like Delrin or FRN this is not as much of a problem. Lots of modern folders dispense with liners as well as bolsters, and hold up to appalling abuse (just read some of the other forums here).

As a kid I carried a bolsterless Taylor Eyewitness penknife with white plastic scales for a while and had no problems, and I've used a lot of SAKS without breaking any. On the other hand, the only knife I have ever had break at the pivot was a cheap Japanese stockman that I bought in the 60's. The pivot pin just pulled through the bolster and one scale. That, however, was after several years of use. As Jackknife and ElCuchillo implied, I think it all boils down to quality of construction and designing the knife to suit the materials.

Of course, you could carry an Alox SAK. I've always thought of them not as bolsterless but all-bolster.
 
I guess another thing that made me think of the strength of a bolsterless knife was the Gerber LST.

I have a friend that is not a knife person, but he knows he need a knife. He has carried one of those LST's for many years now, and I've seen him abuse it without mercy. To him its just a tool that if it breaks he'll just get another. Recently he asked me to sharpen it up for him, and I was amazed at how it was still in pretty good shape. Very thin zytel handles and a through pivot in that is not even peened, but kind of knurled on the ends.

One very tough knife in spite of its light construction.

And then there's my Alox Victorinox cadet, and Wenger SI.
 
Good post. Really got me thinking. It depends on the knife. Victoronix has a sort of rivet design. In a similar manner, Schrades had the keyhole construction. This design seems pretty indestructible. Sodbusters have a large rivet design surrounded by composition/plastic.

On the traditional designs such as Case, the nail/pin is put through the bolster and then preened and then hafted. On my knives that I work with made in such a fashion, they will work loose after a while. I will then put one side of the bolster on a flat metal surface and I take a small metal working hammer and tap the bolster till the knife is tight again. I can't see this working with 'shadow' designs where the material is bone, stag, or pearl surrounding the pin. This would seem to be an advantage of bolsters. I do like the bolsterless look sometimes. Case had an autumn shadow series several years ago.

-Jay
 
The British Army Clasp Knife issued for heavy use is bolsterless.
Also alot of English wooden handled work knives are bolsterless, like the prunning knives.
 
JK, I like the thread! For years I have given LSTs to non-knife people. The little Gerber is a great knife.

I first became aware of them in the early 80s. A good friend of the family named Don always had one in his shirt pocket...I still remember that he always wore chammi (sp?) or flannel shirt with button down flaps on the pockets. One day we were comparing our EDCs when I pull out a nice Old Timer Sharpfinger with the 1095 blade. He took one look at it, unbuttoned his pocket, pulled out the LST and said, "Get one of these." His had a beautiful maroon handle and as he said...it keep a real nice edge. Don is the same guy that told me to always have a bit of emory cloth in my wallet for keep it sharp.

I like the blades half stop/notch and the fact that it has no nail nick...clean. One of my good friends has abused an LST beyond anything I would possibly do. His spent the better part of a weekend under water on a boat launch. It fell in the water when he was gettin his boat on the trailer one day and he thought it was lost for good. Well, fast forward a few days and he sees something...reaches down and finds a wet, run-over LST! The scales are gouged and the pivot pin is a little messed up but it's functionally perfect. Not ever a rust spot on the blade.

Fine knife indeed. ft
 
The famous Camillus MC-1 that the US Military commissioned for our Air Force in the late 1950's is a very hard use knife and is also bolster-less. This knife saw its first serious work in Viet Nam starting in the mid 1960's. And by all accounts worked well as a parachute jumpers cord/line cutter and even had the auto option in case a jumper only had one hand available due to injury. So well made and hard working this design was, that two others were made by Schrade Walden and Imperial.

My old Camillus MC-1.

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I think that bolsters may have served to protect the scales as much as to strengthen the joints. Natural materials like wood, bone, and horn can chip or crack if dropped on a hard surface.

I'd agree. I never thought of bolsters as providing overall strength per se, more more like keeping the handle materials from chipping all to hell with each (inevitable) drop. (I'm a little biased, though, I guess -- I always thought bolster-less traditional pocketknives - not counting SAKs, of course - were ugly as heck. :barf: )
 
.. (I'm a little biased, though, I guess -- I always thought bolster-less traditional pocketknives - not counting SAKs, of course -were ugly as heck. :barf: )

Not counting SAKS's..:rolleyes: the old vintage Stag, Bone, Ivory, Pearl and Wood, ect. pocket knives are ugly??:eek: What??:confused:

mnb, You and I are absolutely positively polar opposites on this one here, and that is for sure!.:cool:
 
I don't really see how the bolster would strengthen the knife unless one was using it in a side ways prying or twisting type motion. I think there may be something to bolsters protecting the scale material from drops or when cutting deep into something, but many e.g.s seem to have survived just fine with out them. Most of my old pen knives and even some larger ones are bolsterless. At one time the bolsters were cast with the liners as one piece and so may have reinforced the end of the knife. As El Cuchillo mentioned they may be more for appearance now. MY 2p.
 
SK- I am just so disappointed that you are not showing us a few gorgeous examples of bolster-lees knives that have made it through the time warp. Please!
 
mnb, You and I are absolutely positively polar opposites on this one here, and that is for sure!.:cool:

I can't help it sunnyd, I'm from Florida! :p Reckon we'll just have to agree to disagree on this one. I need my bolsters!
 
Yeah, s-k, show us some knives!:D

You can even mix it up a little if you want, some pearl, some stag. We won't complain. Honest!

Hey mnblade, whats Florida got to do with it?:confused:
 
Wow, that Wraggs looks very well used. The bottom one is well worn on the main blade too. is that a small chip out of the tip on the Needham's sheepsfoot?
 
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