The Bradley is Coming, The Bradley is coming.

Fat Goat Forge

Fat Goat Forge

Joined
Dec 31, 2011
Messages
292
Just got an email from Jim Howe!

Spyderco GB is on the way.

Can't wait to try that M4


"Tracking # for your order shipping USPS Priority is 9405 5036 9930 0391 "

Jim Howe
Howes Knife Shop, LLC
www.howesknifeshop.com
989 387 1636 "
 
Sweet pickup. Cant go wrong with the Bradley.
I too am anticipating using the M4 steel as I have the TI/g10 M4 Military on the way. Im a little worried about rust
issues but I plan on treating the steel with tuf cloth and Militec so well see how that goes.
 
Something to increase the anticipation....

bradley5.jpg
 
You may be better off with a marine tuff cloth, or something like clp. I got some rust on a foggy day, and I treated every night with the tuff cloth. It seems to me that the protection wears off too easily. (love tuff glide in the pivot though!)

Now I use frog lube, its a non-toxic clp, works great in the AR too!
 
Fat Goat Forge said:
Just got an email from Jim Howe!

Spyderco GB is on the way.

Can't wait to try that M4


"Tracking # for your order shipping USPS Priority is 9405 5036 9930 0391 "

Jim Howe
Howes Knife Shop, LLC
www.howesknifeshop.com
989 387 1636 "
Click to expand...

Sweet! And we can all track it now and see when it arrives and be happy for/with you at that moment!!

I really haven't used mine much, but it will eventually make it into the lineup!
 
I've been carrying mine since I got the scale modded last week and I like it a lot. I have a .5 ounce bottle of tuff glide and a marine cloth on the way to me. Until then I've just been very careful about how I use it and I make sure to wipe it clean after I use it.
 
I love mine. They could have called it the "Tuff" :) The M4 stains/rusts easily but otherwise it's great.
 
Is it better to use a lubricant/coating such as the tuff glide mentioned in post #6 or just let a patina develop?
 
I carry mine every single day during construction, I sweat all over it, use it for stuff not intended, it gets neglected. when I remember, I use a little mineral oil, thats it. However, I did force a patina on it, and that really significantly helped with corrosion resistance. when it was new I had to keep it oiled like every day, now since that patina has been on there, I sometimes go a week
 
Take a look at Slip 2000 EWL. Check out their web site. Non toxic and amazing. Switched to it after years of Break Free CLP.
Best,
 
dcycleman said:
I carry mine every single day during construction, I sweat all over it, use it for stuff not intended, it gets neglected. when I remember, I use a little mineral oil, thats it. However, I did force a patina on it, and that really significantly helped with corrosion resistance. when it was new I had to keep it oiled like every day, now since that patina has been on there, I sometimes go a week
Click to expand...

What did you use to create the patina? I have read on BF about people having good success on 1095 using of mustard mixed with vinegar. Same mix for M-4 or is there a different patina recipe for this steel?
 
I think I used pickle juice, from what ive heard vinegar is the way to go. from the patina I put on and just wear and tear, my blade is pretty dark now. very cool. its the only knife i have edc'd for over a year straight
 
Fat Goat Forge said:
What did you use to create the patina? I have read on BF about people having good success on 1095 using of mustard mixed with vinegar. Same mix for M-4 or is there a different patina recipe for this steel?
Click to expand...
Just let it form naturally, what's the rush?
 
dcycleman said:
I think I used pickle juice, from what ive heard vinegar is the way to go. from the patina I put on and just wear and tear, my blade is pretty dark now. very cool. its the only knife i have edc'd for over a year straight
Click to expand...

I will probably mix vinegar with the mustard for a first go as I like the pics of that patina posted here on BF.

I'm looking forward to this knife a lot. The other day I had to cut some string off of my snowblower that wrapped around the auger axle. There was no way to cut if off without metal to metal contact. I was carrying a delica 4 ffg in v-10. Dulled the snot out of it and made a small chip in the edge by the tip. It all sharpened away and no harm done. But its not the right blade for that task.

I don't use my knives to cut concrete or anything but here on a horse farm blades do seem to contact metal with some regularity. I am in awe at the amount of tungsten and vanadium in M-4 and expect the Bradley will perform much better for the moderate/hard use I have in mind for it. I love my delica and endura for more delicate use. Just need a real work oriented blade too.
 
The Bradley has arrived. OMG it can fillet paper!!! Its one of the newer ones with the drilled liners so it weighs "merely" 5.2 ounces instead of 5.5. Smoothest opening spyderco I've ever had. Lockup with the michael walker liner lock is insanely good. Not having the closing issue some have unlocking it with my thumb. What a wonderful piece of engineering and beauty it is.

I am in spyderco heaven.
 
apple cider vinegar will yield an almost black patina at long exposures.
 
KNaB said:
apple cider vinegar will yield an almost black patina at long exposures.
Click to expand...

Do you like the way that looks? Might be a nice color to go with the charcoal grey CF scales on this knife. And I have some in the kitchen. How long is a long exposure?
 
Took my dremel tool and "scooped" out one of the scales and liner on the side to permit better access to the whole spider hole with the blade shut and with the blade deployed to allow access to the liner lock. Took 5 minutes and now the knife is wonderful to deploy and close.
 
the rush is Cause' the patina makes the blade a heck of a lot more rust resistant. thats why I did it anyway
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top