the finest steel for the finest edge

Joined
May 18, 2018
Messages
25
Currently, what is the finest steel for the finest edge? ZDP 189 gets a really sharp edge, thin, and holds it. M390 does, also. So does M4. There are others. Lesser steels, like VG 10 and its almost twin, AUS 10 can get a really fine edge, but they don´t hold it long--which may be okay because they are easy to sharpen. But that's not the point here. There are some steels that are able to be worked up to a crazy edge, but edges just too fine do not last because they are so damn fine. A working edge is more practical, obviously. For those who love a knife that gets screaming sharp and holds it best for normal uses which is it? ZDP? the Japanese M4 wannabe Hap 40? or how about s110V? And lets assume the geometry is about the same (to the extent that all these exotic steels work optimally in the same geometric platform), and are all heat treated optimally for the steel in question. On a par, which is the finest steel for the finest edge?
 
which is the finest steel for the finest edge?
. . . for . . . cutting what ?
That is the question. Some steels shine at a polished edge for cutting cleaner stuff like ZDP-189. Some steel shines at cutting old dirty fibery stuff such as rope like S110V does. Some steel shines at resisting edge damage like 3V does.

and some steel is just the best period like M4.
Oops . . . did I say that ? Yeah I'm all gog gah about M4 (and ZDP-189 for that matter). The Ankerson tests say I'm full of stuff and don't know sht . . . but then I don't cut much rope. I have a few S110V blades. Give my M4 any day . . .
. . . for cutting the stuff I cut.
What stuff do you cut ?
 
Sandvik steels or AEB-L are pretty hard to beat as they were designed to be razor steels. The carbides are very small and refined, and the grain is very fine on them.

AUS-8 and BD1 are also really refined, and I've gotten really sharp edges on them too.

Surprisingly the sharpest edge I've gotten was on S35VN, followed by Elmax, then ZDP.
 
I would say AEBL with a proper heat treatment. Super small grain makes it really tough, so you can make the edge really thin and forget about edge chipping. I wonder if those Nitrogen stainless steels, like Zfinit, are as good or even better. I’m waiting for @Larrin Zfinit toughness tests results.
 
Simple high carbon steels (1070-1095, 50100, 52100, Krupp W9) will take a very fine edge. S35Vn, CTS-XHP and CPM S110V also take fine edges. I suspect this is due to small(er) carbides in the powder steels and low carbide content in the high carbon steels.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mo2
Side of dead cow (Herman Oak 7/8 oz premium veg tan, upside down on the cutting table, I lay out the rough out sheaths first):

JCUcEUC.jpg


68 sheaths cut and to be cut out:

0ol4pdV.jpg


Getting er done:

LY3uZdV.jpg


Live action:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjA922hh64Q/?taken-by=horsewrightclothing

Not much dead cow left. This will go into the welts and the belt loops of some of these sheaths. Eight hours of cutting including welts and belt loops. Roundknife did the cutting, AEB-L @ 63RC. Did not resharpen the knife. I do this often, every couple of weeks and multiple other things too, constantly. The roundknife is the one tool that is never put away, it lives on the bench. I resharpen every three to four months but four of five licks on a strop as soon as it starts dragging while cutting and its going through.


i0uGY4p.jpg
 
I would say AEBL with a proper heat treatment. Super small grain makes it really tough, so you can make the edge really thin and forget about edge chipping. I wonder if those Nitrogen stainless steels, like Zfinit, are as good or even better. I’m waiting for @Larrin Zfinit toughness tests results.
I have been using Zfint for a few years. Its extremely tough. It takes a hell of a fine edge, and is very easy to sharpen. Has pretty respectable edge holding too for a steel with few carbides. 60HRC is great from peters.
 
There are really two issues: what steel easily gets a super keen edge and what steel can hold that edge for a long time.

Any knife steel is capable of a super fine edge, but some are more difficult to obtain. The high carbide, high-Rc steels -- 10V, S110V, Maxamet, ZDP 189, S90V, K390, etc. -- will hold a edge a long time, but are more difficult to sharpen to a super keen edge.

The simple fine-grained steels -- the Sanvik steels, AEB-L and the ilk -- are easy to sharpen to super keenness, but won't hold an edge as long, especially at low Rc.

Low-carbide steels will be somewhere in between.

With a thin, acute, micro beveled edge and diamond stones, the high-wear, high carbide steels are easy to sharpen and will hold an edge for a long time.
 
. . . for . . . cutting what ?
That is the question. Some steels shine at a polished edge for cutting cleaner stuff like ZDP-189. Some steel shines at cutting old dirty fibery stuff such as rope like S110V does. Some steel shines at resisting edge damage like 3V does.

and some steel is just the best period like M4.
Oops . . . did I say that ? Yeah I'm all gog gah about M4 (and ZDP-189 for that matter). The Ankerson tests say I'm full of stuff and don't know sht . . . but then I don't cut much rope. I have a few S110V blades. Give my M4 any day . . .
. . . for cutting the stuff I cut.
What stuff do you cut ?
Well, I work in the city--in an office--mo office so I am free to have the knife of my choice on me, and as many knives as I want without worry of getting snitched on (I used to work for local government and I actually go in trouble because a co-worker, frightened by one of my blades told the boss--I can understand had the snitch been a woman, but it was a man--a p***y.

I always have a knife--or two or three--on me because i just love them. What I cut is--on a daily basis is--what ever I eat; kitchen work (and I have a couple of excellent chef knives--one made of super blue by Takeda; and the other White number 1 by shiraki--both top notch and both achieve razor edges--but I don't walk around town with my chef knives--so folders is where the present interest is)--lately, I have been doing my kiitchen work with my folders just to see how they do. I open boxes, occasionally cut rope, and, i love to cut newspaper just to watch a blade that can do it really well. I used to live in the country where i used to prepare daily cook fires. I needed to prepare kindling--baton work and stuff--out of mesquite wood which is a very, very hard wood to work with. for those kind of jobs, I always used my camp Fowler knives out of 52100. I tried dozier D2 which is the best--but it was too brittle. Nice edges, though.
I also whittle as a hobby--i carve small sculptures out of mesquite wood. Mesquite might as well be stone. I have a folder with blades made of 52100, but I wouldn't dare use my spyerco zdp blade because I think the blade will chip out. But for city work, ZDP is marvelous. So, I am looking at what might even surprise me more.

The only other consideration that is worth keeping in mind is ease of sharpening. With ZDP you need diamond stones. In my daily environment, it's not a problem because I have them. In the country, I used to touch up my Fowlers with a smooth rock from the ground--beautiful. With all the new, fancy alloys that are coming out, it can be an issue--this sharpening issue. ZDP, although notorious for being difficult to resharpen, is not a problem as long as the blade is maintained and never gets too far away from optimal condition. That said, try and maintain it with a natural stone--good luck.

I hope I am making myself somewhat clear.

I have a GB spyederco in M4--i bought it from him. For some reason, I haven't paid much attention to it. And, I have a spyderco in zdp-189--a calypso Jr. I bought long ago when they first came out with zdp--this is the folder I have become obsessed with--the edge on it is so fine, that I just love it. But the blade is very small--so, I am looking to buy a new one and I find find that there is so much out there, that it's a tough choice. Spyderco makes an endura with a nice blade length in zdp--it's a candidate, but before I buy it, I am trying to see what else is out there. I do not take the approach of just throwing money at it, as in, "just buy them all!" Perhaps I eventually will; but for now, I want the best steel for the best edge--relatively speaking, of course.
 
Side of dead cow (Herman Oak 7/8 oz premium veg tan, upside down on the cutting table, I lay out the rough out sheaths first):

JCUcEUC.jpg


68 sheaths cut and to be cut out:

0ol4pdV.jpg


Getting er done:

LY3uZdV.jpg


Live action:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjA922hh64Q/?taken-by=horsewrightclothing

Not much dead cow left. This will go into the welts and the belt loops of some of these sheaths. Eight hours of cutting including welts and belt loops. Roundknife did the cutting, AEB-L @ 63RC. Did not resharpen the knife. I do this often, every couple of weeks and multiple other things too, constantly. The roundknife is the one tool that is never put away, it lives on the bench. I resharpen every three to four months but four of five licks on a strop as soon as it starts dragging while cutting and its going through.


i0uGY4p.jpg
 
Me. The 68 knives mentioned. I made 54 of them, the rest are here for my sheaths. Lots of guys use AEB-L. Secret to get great slicing ability, fine edge and edge holding ability with this steel is running it pretty hard. My regular edc knives I run at 62 rc the leather knives at 63rc. Like shannonlabs I have Peters do the ht.

sOrZDRR.jpg


My knives are pretty common in the cowboy/rancher world, mostly small edc types.

xb4zQE6.jpg


I even make job specific castrators (yep that's what those are by Mike's feet). I use the same steel and ht for these guys too. It just works.

rJyUHyH.jpg
 
AEB-L, 12c27 and 14c28n are all razor blade steels with very fine grain which contributes to the insane edges they can take.
Indeed! I just never thought to use it for a knife until I started seeing others doing it. I run it at 60rc plus deep cryo from Peters' and it's a great combination of ease of sharpness and edge holding. Pretty tough too in 1/8"& 5/32" thick.

I've never even heard of AEB-L, although I may have seen it listed among other steels in some article or something. but I have never focused on it. I'll check it out, thanks.

It's nice! I do all my grinding on it after heat treat and it's great to work with. It can come bent from suppliers but once you get it flat it's super nice.
 
Have Brad run one for ya at 62 instead of 60 and give that a try. If you like it at 60 you are gonna love it at 62 LCKT707 LCKT707 . Don't really loose much toughness either. I've had customers run their knife and sheath over with the lawnmower. Blade reflected about ah 1/8th of an inch. New sheath though.
 
Back
Top