the frugal/practical knife knut

rkenny,
I forgot to mention that I cut the tip off the plastic sheath and slipped it down into the tip of the leather sheath. There's about an 1 1/2" of the plastic sheath shoved in there. It gives you a little extra protection.

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Hoodoo

I get some pleasure from finding a relentlessly peaceful use for a combative looking knife.
JKM
 
Hoodoo, a liner of some kind in the leather is definately a must. I have a nice Frosts of Sweden woodcarving knife that has a leather only sheath and that thing is so sharp it would cut right through the leather if I where to put any kind of pressure on it. I have some good projects to work on now. Thanks a bunch.

Bob
 
Here's another way to carry a big folder or multitool into the field. Make a separate pouch in your hindpocket. This is easily done with a sewing machine. Just make a vertical stitch in your backpocket wide enough to accomodate your knife/tool. I've done this to my hunting pants and backpacking pants. Got the tip originally from Cliff Jacobson's book, Camping's Top Secrets.

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Hoodoo

I get some pleasure from finding a relentlessly peaceful use for a combative looking knife.
JKM

[This message has been edited by Hoodoo (edited 11-22-2000).]
 
I don't know about you guys but I'm having fun. Just how far can you ride a dead horse?
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Tip # 10,749: Got an SAK? Want a toothpick that works? I whittle mine down till it's thin enough to get between my teeth. My dentist wonders why my teeth are so good when I tell him I rarely use dental floss. That's when I whip out my trusty SAK and show him the greatly modified toothpick. BTW, the Victorionox toothpicks are tougher than the Wenger toothpicks and will last longer after being whittled.

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Hoodoo

I get some pleasure from finding a relentlessly peaceful use for a combative looking knife.
JKM
 
And the magical number is 26 to fire this thing up! Ya all didn't think this puny thread would go this far did ya? Now for that ever so important tip! Well...I have no idea. How about: keep a candle handy around your sharpening tools and after sharpening, run the edge through the candle. A quick swipe will prevent rust. Handy to do in the field too, after field dressing and wiping dry. The edge is the most important part of the knife to protect. Also, if you have a hidden tang on a knife like a Frost, for instance, you may want to drizzle some slow-setting epoxy down into the tang to seal the handle and prevent moisture and rust. Some people prefer to use wax for this instead.

Here's an often repeated tip. Coat your edge with a magic marker before sharpening so you can see more easily what you haven't sharpened.

My last tip: keep your knives clean and oiled, especially when you are in the field. (I know, DUH!)
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Rust has a way of sneaking up on you.
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Time to bury this equine.
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Hoodoo

I get some pleasure from finding a relentlessly peaceful use for a combative looking knife.
JKM



[This message has been edited by Hoodoo (edited 11-28-2000).]
 
Bury it? Hold that shovel!

I use the top edge of a halfway rolled down car window to put the finishing touches on certain blades after stropping.

1600 grit wet/dry paper, which if glued down to a piece of glass or ceramic tile gives a razor edge to chisel ground blades. The roll can be removed from the flatside without marring even a mirror finish. You can get a lifetime supply of 1600 grit wet/dry at any NAPA dealer for under $10.00.<--Just don't use oil on it though. Use water for a lubricant. I used this to put a *popping sharp* edge on a Stiff Kiss that I had taken to a mirror finish.
 
You can't keep a good hoss down!
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Hoodoo

I get some pleasure from finding a relentlessly peaceful use for a combative looking knife.
JKM
 
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