The HI forum saves some power tools

Howard,
Where did you find that Ulu listed on the ragweedforge web site? I've looked all over and can't find it listed. By the way, nice job on the handles!!

-Malcolm
 
Malcolm?

If you are just messin' around, try an old circular saw blade, cut in quarters. Good high-carbon steel, and most of the shape is already set up.

Takes some work, but can be productive.

Wear eye/ear protection and, of course,
wacherass.
 
You will never be the same after setting up those tools. Tools are power!

Now, because it's me, I'll give you the usual cautions and safety pitch. If you already know this stuff, pass it along to Red Flower. Always wear eye protection. If you like listening to music, wear ear protection when using the table saw. Keep the table saw blade in the lowered position (below the table-top) when not in use unless it's completely covered by a blade-guard. Always use a blade guard and use an anti-kickback device when ripping. Never hold the workpiece in your hand using the drill press if it's metal. When cutting small pieces on the band saw, use wooden pencils with erasers as push-sticks to keep you fingers away from the blade.

Good things to come. :D
 
kismit,
How do you cut the saw blade? I don't think a regular hacksaw will work will it? If you use a power cut off tool, don't you risk taking out the heat treat? Thanks for the heads up, I might try making one...............Malcolm
 
Use a thin cut-off wheel on a Dremel tool to make a shallow groove and the blade will snap along the groove when flexed. Done this many times. It's called a stress-riser, I believe. The groove only needs to be about .1" deep or less. I'll bet Yvsa or Nasty know the details here.
 
45-70 said:
HW,

I thin you are a lucky man.

My wife tolerates my addictions, like yours, but I still think you are a lucky man.
Click to expand...

Just what I was going to say. Any woman that encourages your projects and indeed actually helps you with them is a blessing. I'm envious again. :D

Question: when you install handle pins, are they just tapped in friction fit and then cut off and sanded even with the handle, or do you drill the holes the same size and then epoxy them in place?

Norm
 
Bri in Chi said:
You will never be the same after setting up those tools. Tools are power!

Now, because it's me, I'll give you the usual cautions and safety pitch. If you already know this stuff, pass it along to Red Flower. Always wear eye protection. If you like listening to music, wear ear protection when using the table saw. Keep the table saw blade in the lowered position (below the table-top) when not in use unless it's completely covered by a blade-guard. Always use a blade guard and use an anti-kickback device when ripping. Never hold the workpiece in your hand using the drill press if it's metal. When cutting small pieces on the band saw, use wooden pencils with erasers as push-sticks to keep you fingers away from the blade.

Good things to come. :D
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tips Bri. I've talked to Red Flower about loose hair and clothing, and staying out from in front of the table saw where things might kick back. I don't think this saw has a blade guard or an anti-kickback device. Just what is an anti-kickback device anyway?

Good tip on the pencils and clamping the metal. I'll use clamps for metal on the press, but I might have been tempted to hold one so I'm glad you mentioned it. I can just imagine a spinning knife blade I was trying to hold.
 
Svashtar said:
Question: when you install handle pins, are they just tapped in friction fit and then cut off and sanded even with the handle, or do you drill the holes the same size and then epoxy them in place?
Click to expand...

I'm a much worse craftsman than that! I had an undersized bit and an oversized bit. So I drilled the holes oversized. I tried to peen the brass pins over a bit and cracked one of the slabs doing that. I went ahead and glued everything up, and then later I filled in the gaps on the oversize holes and the crack with epoxy. After it hardened I sanded everything down and it looked pretty good, despite my errors. If you look closely in the photos you can see the dark circles of epoxy around the pins, and the dark crack on the right side in the bottom photo.

The crack gives it some character. It's sturdy after the epoxy treatment. You guys who've repaired HI blems with cracked handles know what I mean.
 
Howard Wallace said:
Thanks for the tips Bri. I've talked to Red Flower about loose hair and clothing, and staying out from in front of the table saw where things might kick back. I don't think this saw has a blade guard or an anti-kickback device. Just what is an anti-kickback device anyway?
Click to expand...

On my table saw there are two hinged "wings" that have teeth cut into them in such a way that work can be fed into them, but can't come back out. In other words, once you start feeding your material into the saw blade, you must continue in that direction, and even if the blade binds the work and attempts to throw it back at you you're safe.

Sometimes if the blade hits a knot, or the wood gets jammed between the blade and the fence, it's going to come back at you. The anti-kickback has saved my butt a few times. But I have also removed the splitter / kickback assembly at times when cutting larger pieces or very thin molding.

I have found the trick to eliminating kickback is to keep the work moving, make sure the blade is the correct distance above the wood and is not burning or binding it, and either have an outfeed stand or roller setup, or someone to catch for you.

Norm
 
DannyinJapan said:
A good story all around. Im thinking maybe Ill get some of these knives from Dan for the ladies in my life for Christmas.
I did have a tool I just got that has really helped out. The roper whitney hand punch. cuts a perfect hole in most metals instantly!
Why I ever used a drill, I dont know..
Click to expand...

Danny, more details please! Do you have a link? Doing a search now. Sounds intriguing.

Norm

P.S. Found this: http://www.vansantent.com/Hand_punch.htm

Looks like it is for sheet metal applications only? Thanks for any info.
 
Malcolm?

What Bri in Chi said. That's the smart way, and easy.

I used a fiber cutting disc on a bench grinder with a thing of water near by to dunk it in.

Go Bri's way. He is skilled. I is not.
 
Thanks, Kismet,
I may have more hand scars but that doesn't necessarily equal skill. Anyway y'all-- jus' do as I say, not as I do.:D

Here's an appropriate sig line:

"If a project isn't worth shedding a little blood for, it's probably not worth doing. "

:confused:
Or not....
 
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