The "ideal" angle.

The V can be sharpened in the field with a strop too - I think a lot of convex users make their edges too round, like an axe blade. The convex is *theoretically* superior when comparing two edges of specifically similar geometry. it's very hard to measure, let alone produce these identical conditions to do a straight comparison.
 
daizee said:
I think a lot of convex users make their edges too round, like an axe blade.
Click to expand...

That's what I was reading. A convex edge should be very flat. Flatter than you would think. That's why I went in at such a low angle. We'll see if it holds up. I've got to figure out now how to check for edge rolling.
 
Critikill said:
That's what I was reading. A convex edge should be very flat. Flatter than you would think. That's why I went in at such a low angle. We'll see if it holds up. I've got to figure out now how to check for edge rolling.
Click to expand...

Get some seasoned hardwood, and start cutting. If its gonna roll, it will do it there. Carve, cut notches, make feather sticks, whittle a point on it. That will work.


Moose
 
Critikill. The angle and edges is a can of worms with some folks. Moosez is right, just go out and test as often as you can and see what works best for you on the knives you have with their given grinds.

I prefer a thin convex but I have tested enough that I know its plus and minus so can I can use it to best use, but, thats just me. then too it depends upon what you are cutting. Sir Richard Burton said in the book "The Book of the Sword" written in the 1800's said, "On a sword, the angle must be 40 degrees or greater and then care must be taken to ensure it does not chip on a thick head". So in a way the way you sharpen depends upon how you use a knife.

Most people do convex too thick. However most makers err on the thick side for saftey reason or do not know enough yet. The thicker it is the more abuse it will take. One knife that I tested it, when I ground it thick convex I could baton a barrel in half, literally, which I did but batoning through thick heavy stuff is all it would do. I took the same knife reground it to where it would split a single hair. Sharp as all get out but do not approach the barrel with it at the edge for sure.

The grind has nothing to do with edge retention. The grind just effects material flow and strength.

Interesting. You can sharpen then polish the edge to where you can pick a single hair off of your arm. It will then just slide on a hickory handle. Sharpen with a different stone and you cannot make it slide it just buries deeper into the handle.

next year when we come back to Ethans doings I can play with edges, stones and angles if yall want to.
 
fisk said:
Critikill. The angle and edges is a can of worms with some folks. Moosez is right, just go out and test as often as you can and see what works best for you on the knives you have with their given grinds.

I prefer a thin convex but I have tested enough that I know its plus and minus so can I can use it to best use, but, thats just me. then too it depends upon what you are cutting. Sir Richard Burton said in the book "The Book of the Sword" written in the 1800's said, "On a sword, the angle must be 40 degrees or greater and then care must be taken to ensure it does not chip on a thick head". So in a way the way you sharpen depends upon how you use a knife.

Most people do convex too thick. However most makers err on the thick side for saftey reason or do not know enough yet. The thicker it is the more abuse it will take. One knife that I tested it, when I ground it thick convex I could baton a barrel in half, literally, which I did but batoning through thick heavy stuff is all it would do. I took the same knife reground it to where it would split a single hair. Sharp as all get out but do not approach the barrel with it at the edge for sure.

The grind has nothing to do with edge retention. The grind just effects material flow and strength.

Interesting. You can sharpen then polish the edge to where you can pick a single hair off of your arm. It will then just slide on a hickory handle. Sharpen with a different stone and you cannot make it slide it just buries deeper into the handle.

next year when we come back to Ethans doings I can play with edges, stones and angles if yall want to.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the in depth reply. I'm posting a video within the next hour of a light cut test on my blade. Any constructive criticism is welcome.
 
fisk said:
Critikill. The angle and edges is a can of worms with some folks. Moosez is right, just go out and test as often as you can and see what works best for you on the knives you have with their given grinds.

I prefer a thin convex but I have tested enough that I know its plus and minus so can I can use it to best use, but, thats just me. then too it depends upon what you are cutting. Sir Richard Burton said in the book "The Book of the Sword" written in the 1800's said, "On a sword, the angle must be 40 degrees or greater and then care must be taken to ensure it does not chip on a thick head". So in a way the way you sharpen depends upon how you use a knife.

Most people do convex too thick. However most makers err on the thick side for saftey reason or do not know enough yet. The thicker it is the more abuse it will take. One knife that I tested it, when I ground it thick convex I could baton a barrel in half, literally, which I did but batoning through thick heavy stuff is all it would do. I took the same knife reground it to where it would split a single hair. Sharp as all get out but do not approach the barrel with it at the edge for sure.

The grind has nothing to do with edge retention. The grind just effects material flow and strength.

Interesting. You can sharpen then polish the edge to where you can pick a single hair off of your arm. It will then just slide on a hickory handle. Sharpen with a different stone and you cannot make it slide it just buries deeper into the handle.

next year when we come back to Ethans doings I can play with edges, stones and angles if yall want to.
Click to expand...

I can't wait. :D

Moose
 
Critikill, there is no best. It just depends upon how that particular knife was made or ground, how you use it and the stones you use.
Moosez try to save some hickkory hammer handles or the next year and I will as well.

I will bring some pieces that will fail so you can see what happens.....if...and etc. Then some that will pass muster on what we try. I should be able to tell you ahead of time what will fail and what will not. After that it is each persons view on how he likes what in the field.

We are headed to the amazon in a few weeks so I will be testing a new pattern out on how it works for a small carry. It is a thin convex with a crowned spine.
 
fisk said:
Critikill, there is no best. It just depends upon how that particular knife was made or ground, how you use it and the stones you use.
Moosez try to save some hickkory hammer handles or the next year and I will as well.

I will bring some pieces that will fail so you can see what happens.....if...and etc. Then some that will pass muster on what we try. I should be able to tell you ahead of time what will fail and what will not. After that it is each persons view on how he likes what in the field.

We are headed to the amazon in a few weeks so I will be testing a new pattern out on how it works for a small carry. It is a thin convex with a crowned spine.
Click to expand...

Fisk, I would love your opinion on the BK 16 vid I made. Yours too moose.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/971797-My-BK16-Cutting-test-video
 
Thanks for your input, Mr. Fisk.

I prefer convex. I find that I am much better at freehand sharpening using convex methods than on stones. I then finish up the edge with a ceramic rod.
 
defenetly convex man honestly it does outperform v edge in everyway that i have tested. those that say it doesnt just might not know about edges and geometry yet or like some guys have mentioned here they just make it to round wich makes it very strong but lack performance bite and slicing. .heres my bk2 i convexed super lean convex what a convex should look like if u want it to perform really good. .almost cant tell when the edge bevel starts. . .i took it with me in the woods i chopped bunch of 2x4 and feathersticked all day and it was still super sharp just passed it twice on strop and was back to cutting phonebook paper in mid air. .convex man trust me
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