The ideal survival knife

peter nap

peter nap

Joined
Nov 27, 1999
Messages
3,745
Some of you read my rant about the Tracker.
Some of you don't pay any attention to my rants...and
Some of you don't read my rants
Anyway, since I ranted, lets see how good we are.

Who has an idea on the ideal (Not really such a thing but lets try) Survival knife.

The rules:
It is designed for survival in the outdoors, specifically woods.
It is easily carried.
It performs the tasks you specify.

Let's leave the Kurka out because it probably as close as can get to ideal. Lets try for something different.

I have my ideas and will work on it this week but I'd like to know what others think.
 
Oh lord....here we go ;) ;)

I say 3/16 stock
0-1 (thats just what I use at the moment ;P)
Micarta or ironwood
laynard hole
2" wide chopper end that tapers to decent point that will cut fish open if you HAVE to but not so much of a point it would break.

A high flat grind near the choil area for detail work and a steeper grind at the sweetspot. Modified pierce I think its called
The handle will have to have enough of a "bell" shape so the thing wont fly out of your hand when chopping. Blade of around 6.5" leather sheath.
 
I say 3/16" or better. I also say S30V. Carbon steel just ain't right for a survival knife imho. I say blade and handle material/configuration depends on what you are asking the knife to perform.
 
George, I'm trying to get everyones concept of the ideal survival knife. I know yores would need to be capable of spreading relish... :footinmou :D :footinmou :D :D :D

Everyone, please include the tasks you expect it ti preform. Everyone's different. Not all people fall out of trees! :o
 
Lets see here, this is asking alot.
I'm gonna say, 3/16" thick ATS34 or better stainless I don't know much about the new super steels.
Blade should be a long clip, bowie type blade, 6-7" long. Needs a fine point, but a deep belly, and probably 1.5"-2" of serrations down by the hilt. I know alot of you are cringing, but I really like my serrations for notching hard stuff, or cutting through fiberous stuff. Rounded spine so you could choke your grip up and do fine cutting with the tip of the knife. No false edge or anything sharpened on the back of the blade, I want to be able to use it like a draw knife to peel/shave bark or whatever may be necessary shaping other tools.
Thick micarta or G10 handle/scales over a full tang with a hardened pommel/rear bolsters to hammer with. Handle should be about 5" long and needs a lanyard hole.

I'm figuring on fairly limited chopping which is why its not that heavy of a knife. It needs the fine point and belly for cleaning game and general utility/whitling etc. Already said the bit about being used like a draw knife. Hammer end is for cracking things open, using with a rock or somethign to punch holes etc.
Sheath should be made very heavy and have pouches to hold a diamond sharpening rod, cermamic croc stick, and some kind of firestarter (will the magnesium things work with the higher carbon stainless steels?)
 
This is a easy one for me to answer :D

One of Roger Linger's Bushcraft Blades, the scandi grind is the ideal grind for wood carving, the blade is small enough to always have it with you, the blade in stout enough to be battoned through wood, and the back spine will spark a firesteel. I had the sheath for my Bushcaft made with a loop to hold a army firesteel, so I always have the knife and a way to make fire with me.

I believe its a sweet little package. ;)

attachment.php
 
Actually it would be one of Rodgers designs that I would choose also. He graciously granted me permission to make a slightly modified copy for my own use. I haven't gotten around to it yet but might this week now.

My only change for a pure survival knife would be to make it a little softer. That makes it easier to sharpen and less prone to breakage.

campknife3.jpg
 
I have been thinking about this lately funnily enough. I have a early design which is similar to Rogers Bushcraft. It would be about 10 AOL made from S30V it would have about 3/4 of an inch sharpened spine. I dont know the real terminology for this so imagine a Spear Point sharpened on on top but in a strong triangular way so as not to compromise strength. It wouldnt be a true Spear point more like a Spear/Drop hybrid with 'medium agressive' saw teeth starting where the top sharpened edge left off. The teeth would follow the curve of the point and back up to 3 inces. I'm hoping the curve of the tip would allow for easier cutting in a screwey leverage sort of way. I wouldnt care about the teeth for draw knife usues as a peice of chopped off bark or twisted grass would protect my hands. Full tang on Micarta or perforated aluminium sandwiched between tough indutrial foam (tough and wear resistant but still spongy). With the pressure of the handle bolts it would force the foam to bulge out of the 1/4 inch drilled holes in the Alu and afford a good grip when wet. Lanyard hole and an additional two holes drilled in the length of the spine that would allow it to be fixed securely to a stick if its to be used as a spear.

Kydex sheath with stone and fire steel pockets.
 
Peter,
I'm glad you like my other knife also.

The Knife in the photo is my Camp knife that I had Roger make. I really put that 1075 steel though a big work out cleaning up my back yard after Hurricane Charley.

LingerSK6inch.jpg
 
Temper,

Sounds interesting to me. Put me down on your list of possible makers. I still have a problem with the foam but might could be talked into that.

P.S., I'd like to know Don's honest opinion of the Tracker. :D :eek:

On the camp knife above, I am to make one in O1 with a short span of thumb grooves and an exposed tang end of about 1/8th inch thick. The blade stock will be of 1/4 inch. The thumb groves will be slightly rounded but the rest of blade spine sharp for firesteel use. Full-V flat. Probably in the area of 58.5 -59 HRc but am listening closely to this thread concerning that.

RL
 
P.S., I'd like to know Don's honest opinion of the Tracker

Don't get me started again Rodger. :D

but am listening closely to this thread concerning that

That's one of the reasons I started this Rodger. Everyone has heard about what I don't like but there wasn't much mention of what I considered practical.
I may make mine a little thinner in addition to more springy. While we all know better, sometimes you have to use a survival knife as a pry bar or scraper.

I would also add a lanyard hole.
Other than that....your design is hard to beat for a practical, survival knife. If you will notice, I haven't put in any fighter features like a sharpened false edge.
Any knife can be used for fighting and the thing at the very bottom of the "Let's design a survival knife" list is fighting. That unfortunately is what way too many so called survival knives are designed for.
 
Don,

Actually if you use a steel such as 1075 I believe your 'softer' consideration would be solved. Even though I fully quenched the blade it was so thick at the spine I got a hamon. While the edge is plenty rock hard the spine is, if I remember correctly, in the 40's HRc. That is why I am not making the next one in O1. The owner wants to stike a firesteel. So we chose O1 for his. I am also making one in D2. That should be a killer steel with very high hardness at the edge.

Temper got me thinking about this when I read his comment on having a double edged tip portion. Using 1075 on the camp knife but with a false edge somewhere close to the center of spine (not the tip) that is slightly flat at the edge but with sharp corners would work. The 1075 at that area would harden plenty enough for firesteel use. Putting ithe false edge at the tip would defeat the sping you are wanting. (just blue skying here now.)

RL
 
Myakka,

I think Don's opinion of the Tracker would completely change if it had a gut hook :D :D :cool: :cool: :D , with saw teeth on the hook :D :D :D :D
 
Peter,
The sharpened tip is not designed to look like a fighter, if fact I can't stand fighting knives, its purpose is to be able to easily pierce something. IMO a good survival knife should be able to chop, but, in some situations you may have to cut through something as you do not have the space to chop. In this scenario you may only be left with an option to pierce it and saw through it as it could be too hard to cut through, no matter what the grind. I was thinking of the hard plastic used in car bumpers or other such material, even car body skin could be 'torn' with a saw back that wasnt too aggresive)

I think a SK should be a good all rounder, IMH this would automatically make it hard on the eyes :D (Just look at that Beck!) ;)
 
I think Don's opinion of the Tracker would completely change if it had a gut hook

Maybe he could find a way to mount a CB radio in the handle and a makeup mirror on the side.

Actually it wouldn't be a bad (Not Great) camp knife but it's too gimmicky and poorly designed to stake your life on.

It made a good prop for the movie though. Kinda like the knuckle up shooting method you see on TV :eek:
 
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