The liner lock

Thank you all for your responses. Yes, the liner lock works in well made knives, and I no longer mind it so much. It’s good to know, though, that there are others that are not crazy about too. Again, thank you.
 
I'm carrying one today (Ferrum Forge Mini Archbishop), and it works well. I prefer the action on a liner lock to what you get on a lockback (like my Dragonfly 2).
 
On well executed knives, the liner lock gives you something back: lock protection, thin blade/good slicer, etc. My best example is the Military. I would like to mention the Hinderer Fulltrack too, since it has an interesting RIL/Linerlock hybrid.
 
airyq said:
I've had a titanium liner lock wear out leading to blade rock. Have avoided liner locks since in favour of the frame lock.
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This issue isn't specific to liner locks. It can happen to frame locks as well. It's a matter of the harder steel wearing away the softer titanium at the interface. Some manufacturers will address this by treating the titanium face or using a steel insert. There are also different grades of titanium. Personally, I like titanium in certain EDC roles but not in knife handles.
 
I prefer axis and CBB style locks over liner/frame locks, not necessarily because of strength but because they are easier to use, ambidextrous, and far less likely to exhibit lock rock, lock slip, lock stick, etc. In my experience I've just had significantly better luck with more modern lock designs and tend to see their inclusion in a knife as a positive.
 
The Spyderco Military is a great example of a perfectly executed liner lock. The Buck 110 back lock is certainly stronger though, and liner locks are not my preference.
 
Chronovore said:
This issue isn't specific to liner locks. It can happen to frame locks as well. It's a matter of the harder steel wearing away the softer titanium at the interface. Some manufacturers will address this by treating the titanium face or using a steel insert. There are also different grades of titanium. Personally, I like titanium in certain EDC roles but not in knife handles.
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Have not noticed appreciable wear in titanium frame locks, I suppose because there is a much thicker cross section to wear away. But most titanium liner locks, to me any way, seem to come in the standard rather thin thickness, irrespective of how large the knife may be.
 
airyq said:
Have not noticed appreciable wear in titanium frame locks, I suppose because there is a much thicker cross section to wear away. But most titanium liner locks, to me any way, seem to come in the standard rather thin thickness, irrespective of how large the knife may be.
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I only have one titanium liner lock. It's a Massdrop Gent. It's my "church carry" so it doesn't get a lot of use. (It's fun to flick but it doesn't get flicked very often.) So after about a year, the factory edge is still sharp and the lock-up is still excellent.

I'd love to hear more from people who've experienced significant defects in either type due to changes in the lock interface.
 
Personally, I'll take a liner lock over most other methods, especially a frame lock! Frame locks just look half finished to me, whereas a liner lock has nice symmetrical lines. If you're worried about a folder closing on your fingers odds are you should be using a fixed blade anyway! Always have one on me cause as the old saying goes "If in ain't a fixed blade, it's broken"
 
marrenmiller said:
I prefer axis and CBB style locks over liner/frame locks, not necessarily because of strength but because they are easier to use, ambidextrous, and far less likely to exhibit lock rock, lock slip, lock stick, etc. In my experience I've just had significantly better luck with more modern lock designs and tend to see their inclusion in a knife as a positive.
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This. It's 2020. If it has a liner or frame lock I'm not buying it. Aside from what Marren already mentioned, I shouldn't have to put a digit in the blade path. I've got enough scars and there are enough options to avoid them. I think I only have 1 knife left with a liner and it's something rare in an uncommon blade steel. I'll stick with friction, slipjoint, axis/able, bbl/cbbl, button, and OTF until something better comes along.
 
Most linerlocks I've had, or handled, have seemed flimsy. Thin bar stock and minimal lock face contact. Then I got a Shirogorov F3. That thing is solid as a tank. It's also a big knife I rarely use.
 
Ive thought long and hard about my response to this. Basically if I follow Rule #1 my Dad and Grandpa taught me.. I've never in over 50 years of knife carrying have had a lock failure or a slip joint close. And only broke one blade because it got hung up in a pice of wood I was trying to whittle and I wasn't smart enough to Stop and ask for help.
 
Most of my knives are frame lock, liner lock. The issue I have with some model of knives is the tab.
If not designed right it will create a hot spot or if you change your grip; move your finger on tab it can unlock the knife.
 
I only carried locking knives when I was working as a carpenter full time. When I became a superintendent and later took a white collar job, there was no need. I was with the group that opened FedEx boxes, opened envelopes, cut a button thread, etc. Went back to carrying what I love, a medium size traditional.

Economic/industry conditions dictated that I put my tool bags back on about 10 - 12 years ago. I actually found BF when I was shopping for a new locking knife to buy as a work knife to cheer me up since I was going back to the field (didn't want to do that one bit!). Settled on a RAT1 to replace my old Browning Folding Hunter as it was probably half the weight, had a pocket clip to conceal it in my pocket (no belt sheath) and according to the guys here had a pretty robust lock.

Glad I bought it as it was the only large work knife I carried for about three years. To be clear, I don't consider any folding knife that locks to be anywhere close to being as safe or as sturdy as a fixed blade. But... like all tools, you have to make a trade off. I like carrying a large locking folder due to its utility value for me and the fact that since my pocket clipped knives are nearly unnoticeable, they don't become a point of conversation. I don't go to a client's house to talk to them about knives for good or bad reasons.

Unlike other locks, I can manipulate the liner locks I have when my hands are sweaty, when I have on gloves, and all the liner locks I carry daily in my rotation can be easily operated with one hand. Although I have back locks, Tri-ad locks, Axis locks and one other in the rotation, the liner fills the bill for me for its utility. Easy to manipulate and a snap to clean. As a reference point, try cleaning a penetrating adhesive out of an Axis or Tri-ad lock. No thanks!

No frame locks, though. On sweaty hands using the knife to cut aggressively for long periods, the sharp edges are a no go.

Robert
 
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The Spyderco slip lock is fine when replaced with the titanium option. At least I like it much better than the Benchmade which feels flimsy.
 
I don't like liner locks because when I was young I handled many poor ones.
I have handled high quality ones and they seemed ok. My fear is that if I twist
I may unlock it. So I have never bought one...except for my Ti Lite 6" and the way
it is built I trust it. I used to feel the same way about frame locks and now I have a
fair pile of them. For many they are fine. I prefer compression, Axis, and lock backs
for heavier use.

The Cold Steel Ti Lite 6" aluminum scale knife is a exception. Huge and murdery,
I had to own it. I can report it is excellent quality and massively overbuilt. Epic.
 
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