The most useful knife I own: Pioneer X

All this, and you didn't add a pic? SECURITY!!! (snaps fingers and points) That man, that man right there!
I know ! ! ! !
Pic please; at least a link.
Broken spring ? ? ? ?
I've carried one or another SAK with scissors in my tool belt knife pouch every single work day for fifteen years or more now and have never broken a spring. I better get busy I didn't know about this problem.
Mostly that was the same exact knife but the last few weeks I've reverted back from carrying two thinner SAKs to now carrying my old Champ which has all the tools those two had. I only went to the two knife carry to get the wire fitting crimper which didn't work as well for my purpose as I thought it would.

I couldn't make it without my Para2 with M4 riding along side though.
 
If I had to limit myself to just one knife, I think it would be either a SAK Huntsman or a 4 blade "Scout" knife.
Since I don't, I'll continue to lug around a Buck 110 and a Stockman with the Huntsman or Scout knife.
 
I only have one SAK at the moment :eek:
I’m more of a Leatherman guy

I became a Leatherman guy for a while, when the original Leatherman first came out. I found it tougher and more useful than the SAK, especially since those scissors were letting me down. I didn’t abandon the SAKs entirely, but the Leathermen supplanted them or at least supplemented them on a few of my bikes.

The bigger, more elaborate Leatherman multis never appealed to me though. I always carried a fairly comprehensive tool kit on my bikes. The idea was to have a small multi handy for quick, simple fixes that didn’t warrant going deep into my luggage for a tool kit. A SAK or basic Leatherman would suffice.

Eventually, I soured on the Leatherman, and learned a lesson at the same time when, in an effort to minimize my load, I went to Mexico with only one blade, the one on my Leatherman. That blade let me down on a couple of roadside repairs, and I resolved never to leave home again without at least one good, sharp knife.
 
pinnah:

I've often wondered how to sharpen/"tune" Micra scissors. Can you provide a detailed explanation of how to maintain Micra scissors? If possible, photos would be very helpful.

Thx

To sharpen a Micra, I use a Medium grit diamond DMT "credit card" sharpener. I open the scissors, put the beveled edge on the card and scrub to form a burr. I do this for each arm. Then and deburr each arm by laying the flat side of the scissor arm on the card and scrubbing.

Tuning involves bending the arm to ensure just the right amount of pressure of the arms against each other. Too little and materials can fold in between the arms without cutting. Too much and the scissor bind when you close them to the point of not opening.

The basic idea of tuning is to use pliers to gently bend the blades either in or out to adjust the pressure. The trick is to position the pliers just where you want to change the bend.

To do this, I get some fine thread to test the scissors. If the scissors can cut thin thread, they'll cut most anything else I encounter. I start near the pivot and test the scissors by cutting the thread. If the thread folds instead of cuts I note the location where the problem starts and will bend both arms closer to each other with the pliers. If the blades bind, I note where that occurs and bend them out a bit at that point. I continue the process of rechecking by starting at the pivot and working my way towards the tip. Note, adjustments made near the pivot will have huge impacts out near the tips.

This is patient and fiddly work, much like learning to sharpen a knife blade. Like sharpening, this may be too much hassle for some people.

The other bit of advice I can give is that you need to dive into this with no regard or hope of having a working Micra when you're done, at least when you're learning. I buy used Micras in bulk off of auction sites and give them away like candy. It's easy to wreck the blades bending them as I describe and so I suggest you try it on throw away Micras at first.

I can generally bring a Micra back from unusable to being able to push cut through wrapping paper.

Hope this helps.

Untitled by Pinnah, on Flickr
 
I like the Victorinox SAK scissors a lot, but only use them for light-duty, precision work. I've only ever broken one SAK K scissor spring, on a Classic back in around 2001. It was relatively easy to replace the spring.

But for most of the past 20 years, the only SAK with scissors I've carried is my Executive, and its scissor spring is still going strong. If/when it does go, I'll simply order an appropriately-sized spare spring and replace it.

Although the spring/lever on the Wenger scissors is stronger, it's not replaceable. A friend of mine still carries his old Wenger-made Swiss Buck he's had since the '90s (it's his only carry knife), and last time I saw him, the spring on his knife's scissors had long since broken and the scales had long since fallen off. Everything else is usable, but the scissors on it are useless.

At one point many years ago, I tried a standard-sized Wenger model with scissors, but found I hated them for precision work. I disliked the serrations, and the scissors would "nod" up and down during use.

I own a Pioneer X, but haven't carried it much at all. Since I always have my Executive on me, I already have pocket scissors covered, and would rather carry either my regular Pioneer (or my Spartan) along with the Executive, which I do every day anyway.

Jim
 
To sharpen a Micra, I use a Medium grit diamond DMT "credit card" sharpener. I open the scissors, put the beveled edge on the card and scrub to form a burr. I do this for each arm. Then and deburr each arm by laying the flat side of the scissor arm on the card and scrubbing.

Tuning involves bending the arm to ensure just the right amount of pressure of the arms against each other. Too little and materials can fold in between the arms without cutting. Too much and the scissor bind when you close them to the point of not opening.

The basic idea of tuning is to use pliers to gently bend the blades either in or out to adjust the pressure. The trick is to position the pliers just where you want to change the bend.

To do this, I get some fine thread to test the scissors. If the scissors can cut thin thread, they'll cut most anything else I encounter. I start near the pivot and test the scissors by cutting the thread. If the thread folds instead of cuts I note the location where the problem starts and will bend both arms closer to each other with the pliers. If the blades bind, I note where that occurs and bend them out a bit at that point. I continue the process of rechecking by starting at the pivot and working my way towards the tip. Note, adjustments made near the pivot will have huge impacts out near the tips.

This is patient and fiddly work, much like learning to sharpen a knife blade. Like sharpening, this may be too much hassle for some people.

The other bit of advice I can give is that you need to dive into this with no regard or hope of having a working Micra when you're done, at least when you're learning. I buy used Micras in bulk off of auction sites and give them away like candy. It's easy to wreck the blades bending them as I describe and so I suggest you try it on throw away Micras at first.

I can generally bring a Micra back from unusable to being able to push cut through wrapping paper.

Hope this helps.

Untitled by Pinnah, on Flickr

Excellent! Thank you. :thumbsup:
 
Now that I'm retired and usually in social situations rather than work situations I find my Wenger Traveller is the perfect EDC. It's not too small and it's not too big. It has all the functions you need and it never offends anyone when you offer it for someone in need to cut the ribbon on their present.

I had a Pioneer for 30 years when working in construction. The Wenger has been carried now for 10 years plus. I bought a backup a couple of years ago because they're out of production.

The scissors are often the most important tool. I think the Wenger scissors will last as long as you want if you remember to occasionally tighten the pivot screw with a jeweler's screwdriver. Well, it works for me.

Brian
 
I own several SAKs but the Farmer is my Huckleberry.
6LWZh4j.jpg
I hate to say this but, IMHO, the Farmer is the knife the Pioneer should have been. That saw really helps with the overall ergonomics of the knife.
 
Beyond the scissors i find SAK not all that great.

Maybe worth putting in a pack or soemthing. Rather take something small with pliers tho.

Yea scissors are great, but pliers are better.
 
I have two complaints with SAKs:

1. Heat treatment leaves the steel a little soft.

2. I find the tools a little difficult to deploy. Nail nicks are not my friend.

With that said, I still like them and I still carry one from time to time.
 
My EDC SAK is a Cybertool 29. I might change what other knives I have clipped or loose in my pockets, but the 2 constants are the Cybertool 29, and then a Leatherman Squirt PS4 on my keychain. Between them i have blades, scissors, pliers, tweezers, and a large variety of screwdrivers/bits. The jewelers screwdriver (in the corkscrew) and small phillips are small enough to fix any eye/sunglasses. There's not much I can't MacGyver with those 2 tools unless ducktape is needed. I'm the kind of person that always has a pen, and even when I forget a pen, I still have a pen in my SAK.

I just wish they'd put the awl of the alox models on the regular plastic handled ones.
 
I hate to say this but, IMHO, the Farmer is the knife the Pioneer should have been. That saw really helps with the overall ergonomics of the knife.
The saw has really come in handy out in the woods , have used it to fashion all sorts of things.The Pioneer is my second favorite SAK.
WtkMn4l.jpg
 
The saw has really come in handy out in the woods , have used it to fashion all sorts of things.The Pioneer is my second favorite SAK.
WtkMn4l.jpg
It’s not the usefulness of the saw that I was talking about. It’s the extra overall width of the saw that I feel makes the Farmer better. Most people never use the saw
 
It’s not the usefulness of the saw that I was talking about. It’s the extra overall width of the saw that I feel makes the Farmer better. Most people never use the saw
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but the Pioneer X, the knife this thread started about, is basically the Farmer with a pair of scissors instead of the saw. Might be one to look at if you like the Farmer's thickness but don't need the saw.
 
It’s not the usefulness of the saw that I was talking about. It’s the extra overall width of the saw that I feel makes the Farmer better. Most people never use the saw
I understand.... overall thickness of the knife is more comfortable for you. For me, if I am home, I have various saws available based on the job and the sak saw doesn't get used. Camping, hiking, woods walking etc., I can see a great deal of usefulness having the saw blade on the knife and available especially if you don't want to burden yourself with a folding saw because you only have limited use typically. But day to day, I don't use a sak saw, so I choose models that do not have the saw blade like the Farmer. I honestly have never owned a Farmer. Guess that's why Vic has all of these different configurations. The Trekker is the model I add to my carry bag if I am in the woods (and think about it beforehand).
 
I have used the SAK saw in the past, and maybe will use it again. But in day to day carry, I usually don't carry a SAK that has a saw blade. Not enough use in urban/suburban environments for me. On the other hand, the basic tools on a SAK are useful for so much more than what they were designed for. Almost everything these days is held together with Phillips screws so a small to medium SAK with screw driver or the Vic can opener is very useful. The pioneer can opener is a great Phillips driver. The awl in a great drill for starter holes for wood screws for mounting shelf brackets or closet hangers. The flat screw driver tool opens cans of putty, small cans of minwax stain and sealer for home projects and paint. The knife blade handles all cutting that can be done with a pocket knife. The basic 4 blade scout pattern like the pioneer/Wenger SI is a great city/suburban pocketknife for a very wide range od common usage. Small to medium SAK's have taken over as my one EDC pocket knife in my retirement because they are so handy. The saw, not so much. I have a SAK that has a saw blade on it, but it almost never gets carried anymore.

YMMV because of human nature and different living conditions. As an old fart, I'm much more likely to need my SAK to cut the home made cinnamon bun in half to share with my better half at the local coffee shop, while enjoying a nice Costa Rican brew. Or adjust the sights on a firearm for the granddaughter on her visits to Texas. A small screw driver is needed then.
 
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Personally, I prefer the thinness of the standard Pioneer over the Pioneer X and the Farmer, both of which I also own. I rarely if ever need a saw, and I mentioned earlier that if Inwant scissors, my Executive covers that. I find that carrying two SAKs, the Exec and either the Pioneer or Soartan, is more comfortable for me than carrying one thicker pocketknife. Not to mention the Exec's excellent nail file and tiny pen blade.

I find the Alox SAK's awl to be superior to the back-mounted one on the cellidor-handled Spartan/Tinker/ etc. models. And I would pick the Pioneer every time over the Spartan, if the Pioneer could somehow be made to carry the mini eyeglass screwdriver, which I always carry in my Spartan's corkscrew.

Jim
 
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