The Punch Blade-So many Variations

Rockon75

Gold Member
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Dec 8, 2008
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I know that there is a "uses" discussion, and there is no doubt the punch/awl blade has infinitely more uses than just poking holes in leather. This thread is to show and discuss the various designs. I have a very long commute on Mondays and Wednesdays and I found myself thinking about the fact that I have 3 different GEC patterns with a punch blade. Then I thought harder and realized that not one of them was the same design. So I'll start off by showing the three different punch blades that I have and comment on each one.

Here is the "heard":

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The #15 Harness Jack-Charlie Variety-is ground flat on the mark side with a bevel taper on the pile side. This is my favorite by the way. It is razor sharp the entire length along its edge and the point is like a needle. This design allows the punch to double as a short flat blade or scraper along with its punch capabilities. This design is opened with a nail nick. This design is probably the easiest to keep sharp as well. The punch on this variety would leave a triangle shape gap in any leather (leather awls are typically leave diamond slits).

#15

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The #66 Teamster's Jack-Charlie Variety as well-has a symmetrical-ground radius on the pile side with a 90 degree lip on the mark side for ease of opening. This design has a sharpened end the entire length of the bottom, so scrapping duties and cutting could be a dual function, although not on mine. This one is a safe queen. The point on this one would leave slices in leather like a slice of pie. Due to its "lip" it really can't poke into an object like I've see some BF'ers do with the last smokes off of a cigar.

#66

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The #85. Perhaps one of my favorite combinations. I love a "leaf" spear blade, but it cannot clean fingernails or do detail work. Adding a punch to this knife makes it so versatile. The punch seems to be a hybrid of sorts between the two previously mentioned. The pile side is bevel tapered but the taper is asymmetrical, favoring the lower part of the blade. It creates a flat surface that is sharp, but not as sharp as the #15. The mark side is flat ground like the #15, with a "flute" for lack of a better term, ground parallel to the lower edge. I'm guessing as you sharpen the lower edge this would act as a "concave" edge and sharpen back easily. The flute would also lower the friction when pushing through thicker medium than that of the triangular shape on the #15. The slice in a piece of leather from the point on this one would just be a thin semi-circular line. This one is opened with a nail nick.

#85

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If I have my choice of combinations, I would source the #15's punch and have it placed into service on the 85 pattern with the "leaf" spear. That would be my favorite.

If you have different styles of punches, please post them here and discuss the design a bit. It is interesting that there are so many designs for a blade who's primary purpose is putting a slice into leather.

Take care all,
Josh
 
I have tried every type of GEC punch and many others, this one cuts the best holes, from 1/8th to just under 1/4 inch.
The 15 SFO HJ is a very simple punch design that works very well for 1/8 holes as well .

Best regards

Robin

 
Thanks for that. A "DUAL FLUTE"? Is the point a semi-circular line as well, or more of a wave..two small semi-circles? Is the bottom and top edge sharpened or just the bottom?
I have tried every type of GEC punch and many others, this one cuts the best holes, from 1/8th to just under 1/4 inch.
The 15 SFO HJ is a very simple punch design that works very well for 1/8 holes as well .

Best regards

Robin

 
Do you open this one via a fingernail in the "extra flute"?
I have tried every type of GEC punch and many others, this one cuts the best holes, from 1/8th to just under 1/4 inch.
The 15 SFO HJ is a very simple punch design that works very well for 1/8 holes as well .

Best regards

Robin

 
Thanks for that. A "DUAL FLUTE"? Is the point a semi-circular line as well, or more of a wave..two small semi-circles? Is the bottom and top edge sharpened or just the bottom?


The tip is concave leading in to both channels. I think GEC refused to do the two channel again :D
Not sure if it was a Charlie design or based on one of his old knives.

Best regards

Robin
 
Ok, I see it now. Definately a low friction design. Easy pushin', thanks for sharing guys!!
 
Best awl I've ever used, cuts holes in leather, plastic and wood.
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And the L shaped design holds your cigar perfectly!
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Very interesting. Any idea on the theory regarding the spirals on the backside?
 
Could you give some info on the spirals? Do you feel it helps open up the leather, or does it smooth out the hole????

Sorry for not seeing your question Josh. :o These two were gifted to me by Charlie (Waynorth) and here is his explanation on the two punches:

"The nice thing about patented punches is they give us clues about age. Here are two NYK HJs, one with a 1902 Harrison patent punch, and the other with a 1916 Fuller punch. The fuller is similar to the Harrison, with the addition of spiral grooves on the exterior, and a wider "roll" (hard to see) which serves as a guide and a finger lift for opening the punch."

I am not sure what purpose the spiral grooves serve, my guess would be like screwing into the leather, I will have to try them and find out.
 
First- thanks for the details Marksharp, I thinking Charlie might chime in here eventually.

Suprarentorial-Now 5hat is good stuff. Rather than slicing for stitching, that style and technique cuts larger circles. Never thought of it like that. Always thought of a punch as creating a slice for stitches. Learning something everyday.....
 
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