The razor's edge...

G

Garrett Lucas

Joined
May 14, 2001
Messages
34
Ok, now, on to sharpening our knives...I will be the first to admit that I am a little new to the custom blade world. I was satisfied (at one time)with the myriad number of lesser blades running in the 50-100 dollar range. In fact, I patted myself on the back for my for my judgment in blade selection. That is, until I came into the fold of the custom smiths. In particular, Busse Combat. Now, I can never go back to using a blade less than what I have come to know here.

My question relates to sharpening techniques. I am new to this area of knife care as well. In particular, I am curious about field expedient methods of bring an edge back to life. I have both a BM and a NO with a ZT Satin Jack about to take residence here as well. So, here are my questions...

1. What is everyone's thoughts on the clamp type sharpeners such as Lansky (I pulled mine out today that had been given as a gift and tried to put it to work) with the different stones.

2. Is there a better method, or more recommended method? I have read about the diamond sharpeners and cermaics. Which seem to have the best results on these type of blades?

3. Am I looking for specific angle to sharpen these types of blades?

4. Is stropping recommended for these blades as well, and where would I find these types of supplies?

5. What system is best recommended for when you're out in the field. I have a WSI firestarter (P60C) that has the magnesium and flint one one side of a wood block with a ceramic sharpener on the other. I am not convinced yet in regard to the effectiveness of the ceramic stone. I am looking for something relatively comapct and could possibly be stored in the pouch of the corduar sheath that came with my BM and NO.

I know these are a lot of questions from a newbie to the forums, but I am gambling on the good nature of the Busse fans to offer their insight. It seems like a group of good people with a lot to offer.

I have read different threads and articles on sharpening, etc., but haven't seen any that are specific to the Busse blades. I appreciate any help you can give.

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Take it easy,

Garrett
 
Garrett,you'll find a lot of info by using the search function. Specify the Busse Combat forum in the search fields.

As far as what I do for my Busses, ceramic stick in the field and at home will go a long way. Just do as the factory recommends and strop ONLY the narrow ground side (left side).
Now, if you've beat it into submission you may need to strop VERY LITTLE on both side as far as you're alternating sides.
Onto beating it into oblivion...the best I've been able to do thus far is with 320 grit SiC on leather on the right side and every few strokes I'll hit the other side.
A little smooth leather with a fine compound and then a smooth steel and you'll be amazed how well it bites and turns your arm bald
tongue.gif

In the woods sharp is what you can make it, shaving is not really that neccesary.

Cliff Stamp and Joe Talamage (sorry if I spelled it wrong Joe) have a lot of input on sharpening FAQ's around here and you'll find a lot of it with a little searching.
 
Goofed this one, see the next one.

[This message has been edited by Johan (edited 06-18-2001).]
 
Okay Garrett, let's see if I can't help out...

1. I hate clamp-style sharpeners. Use a "V" sharpener like a Spyderco 204, bench stones, or get an <a href="http://business.gorge.net/edgepro/">EdgePro</a>.

2. I use an EdgePro for all my sharpening but I've used diamond stones and ceramics on my Busses in the past. I don't like diamond stones but that's a personal preferance. For touch-ups and field work a medium ceramic is fantastic.

3. The flat grind is 23/24 degrees the convex side is...well...convex so you can't really determine it's angle. Just the arc I guess. But it this way, I sharpen mine to 23 degrees.

4. Stropping works well and in fact in necessary. When sharpening any knife a burr is formed, with INFI steel that burr is very resiliant. It sort of flip-flops back and forth from side to side. Stropping is required to remove that burr and it's one of the reason why when people re-sharpen a Busse they get it sharp, but it never seems to shave. That little burr is the cause. Stropping is the answer. Indeed, when I use my Busses I normally use a smooth steel and then a little stropping to keep them screaming sharp rather than using a stone. I get my strop from <a href="http://www.leevalley.com/home/main.asp">Lee Valley Tools</a>. Get some good leather, attach it to a strip of wood, load it up and away you go.

5. I have been searching for years to find the best field-sharpener. After trying just about everything I've found that a ceramic works best for me. Either a small ceramic steel or one of the smaller Spyderco stones with a wooded backing to increase the gripping area. Like anything, you need to practice a bit to make it effective.

As a final note, I own about half a dozen Busses and I ground the convex edge off of all of them. I just wasn't happy with the performance of the convex edge. I mention this for two reason: First, if you want to grind off the convex edge you won't be the first. Second, it won't kill you knife. Even with a "V" grind my Busses are still nuclear tough. Hope this helps.
 
Johan:

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">When sharpening any knife a burr is formed</font>
Click to expand...

That is usually a sign of an overweakened edge, a too soft hone, or grind marks running parallel to each other. INFI has very hard carbides, to cut them when necessary (which is not often) I sharpen with DMT pads to shape the main bevel and finish with SiC sandpaper on Mylar backing to raise the polish and lightly convex the edge.

The last time I fully sharpened it was a few weeks ago as I was starting a comparison and wanted it at optimal performance. I reground the bevel fully on an 8" x-coarse DMT hone, 100 strokes per side, then 50 on a fine, then 30 passes on 1000 grit SiC sandpaper to lightly convex the bevel and finally, 25 on canvas loaded with a white wax/chauk paste.

The blade would push shave with the lighest of effort and cut free standing coarse hair easily (free shave my beard for example). It would push cut photocopy paper as well as slice into freehanging papertowel. The polish could have been improved further with a CrO buff, but I would rather not lose the slicing ability.

I have done a considerable about of work with it so far. As of a couple of weeks ago, 350+ full powered slices into various woods and 500+ hard chops in various scrap and felled wood, the latter a mixture of wrist snaps, elbow swings and shoulder drives. Mostly clear wood, only about a couple of dozen knots cut through (they add too much variation to the results I save them for durability comparisions). As well a dozen or so straight cuts through dirty 1/2" poly, and a few test slices.

The edge at that time was still aggressive enough to slice through the 1/2" poly with no slips and only about an inch of travel on a loop-through pull. No edge flattening or deformation was visible.

Since then, I have limbed out about 150 small trees with the BM. About 1500 or so chops/slices. From test push cuts through 1/2" poly, the edge lost no further cutting ability by the limbing and is still cutting at the same level ~ 98 +/- 1 lbs.


Note, make sure that you cross the scratches on the upper polishes and switch from side to side frequently. This should prevent any burr from forming. Burr formation is also highly dependent on the sharpening angle as well. The lower you go, the less burr you see due to a decreased pressure on the edge. My Battle Mistress is currently at about 14 +/- 1 degrees per side with a light convex taper to the edge, about another degree or two at the very last bit (.5 mm or so).

-Cliff


[This message has been edited by Cliff Stamp (edited 06-19-2001).]
 
Thanks to those of you who replied to my questions. I really try to look into things and research them before doing something new or buying something. You helped me out with some good info. I appreciate it!!



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Take it easy,

Garrett
 
I have a Lansky sharpening kit. On Busse knives, the clamp doesn't work. However, I do use the stones without the clamp to sharpen my Busse knives. I had problems with getting it shaving sharp with the fine stone, so I purchased the ceramic stone, and wow! what a difference that made. I use the ceramic stone as instructed by the Busse video on the Busse Combat web site and it works fine. The point is the hardest to sharpen, but it can be done with practice.
Van

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Iron sharpeneth iron; so a man sharpeneth the countenance of his friend. Proverbs 27:17
 
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