The Red Grinder Build

Joined
Jan 2, 2001
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164
THE RED GRINDER BUILD

I've had a 2x72 grinder that I've used since 2001, it's a made-from-scrap, two-wheel grinder and has worked well but the time had come when I wanted more from it. I started by researching the various makes and models available to buy and various builds that other folks had done. I then compiled a list of features that I wanted in mine and began searching for plans or designs to follow. The primary frame and build design I chose closely follows D.Comeau's guide here: http://dcknives.blogspot.com/p/2-x-72-belt-grinder.html. He's a good guy and he gladly communicated with me throughout my build whenever I had questions. I highly recommend perusing his website, there's a ton of information there and he's a really smart guy. Instead of re-working the existing grinder, I figured it would be beneficial to have a second one in the shop and there's no question that having a grinder helped to make another one a much easier process. I also had access to a welder (which I'd never used) so I knew I could make a decent frame if I put my mind to it.

I had a budget of around $1000 and I wanted the following features in my second 2x72 grinder:

  • Sturdy, durable and preferably a little quieter than my current grinder.
  • High quality wheels and bearings.
  • Removable tool arms with 3 attachments: flat platen attachment, 8-10 inch contact wheel attachment and a small wheel attachment.
  • 2HP or better direct drive motor with VFD
  • Horizontal mode, the ability to flip or turn the grinder on it's side and use a wide tool rest for horizontal grinding.

Sounds like a tall order for $1000, right? Getting all of these features in a ready-to-order grinder for that cost isn't possible but it is if you decide to build. I've put together some pictures I took along the way and compiled a list of most of the components I used and where possible, links to them. I used all new steel which was pre-cut by mysteelyard.com which was a pretty big time saver. I'm sure you could cut costs further by obtaining scrap steel and or cutting it yourself. I wanted new steel and also wanted to avoid cutting where possible so this worked well for me.

NOTE: I had zero experience with welding and had never wired a 220v circuit before, both of which were necessary for this project. I took my time with learning both welding and how to run a 220 circuit and made sure to be very careful so as not to electrocute myself. I highly recommend getting an electrician to help with the circuit and VFD wiring if you are not comfortable tackling those parts of the project yourself.

Photos here:
http://s594.photobucket.com/user/derekmelton/Grinder%20Project/story

Parts:
All frame steel & aluminum for tool rests, pre-cut to the right lengths and ordered from mysteelyard.com $130.25
  • A500 Steel Square Tubing - 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 3/16 Custom Cut Length: 1' 5"
  • A500 Steel Square Tubing - 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 3/16 Custom Cut Length: 1' 1"
  • A500 Steel Square Tubing - 2 x 2 x 3/16 Custom Cut Length: 10"
  • A500 Steel Square Tubing - 2 x 2 x 3/16 Custom Cut Length: 4"
  • 6061 Aluminum Flat Bar - 1/4 x 5 (three) Custom Cut Length: 1'
  • Hot Rolled A36 Steel Flat Bar - 3/16 x 2 Custom Cut Length: 4' (will use for reinforcing, possibly re-working tracking arm later)
  • A500 Steel Square Tubing - 2 x 2 x 3/16 Custom Cut Length: 3' (I added this section later, cut it myself for more tool arms)
  • Complete high quality aluminum wheel set (4 wheels) & small wheel attachment with two rollers (1 inch and 1/2 inch) came from KnifeGrinderParts.com, $225 for all.
  • Oregon Blade Maker D shaped-backing plate for 2x72 platen assembly with 1/2 inch bolt axles and nylon washers $50.75
  • 2hp tOSHIBA TEFC Motor & TECO L510 VFD from dealers electric $326.52 http://dealerselectric.com/2HP-3600RPM-230Volts-Input-Package.asp
  • 10 inch contact wheel 150$ http://www.ebay.com/itm/201590217512?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
  • Miscellaneous nuts, bolts, washers, springs, external switches, etc. $60
  • Ceramic Glass platen $20

Total so far: $962.52 (all prices include shipping to my home where applicable)

That's just under my $1000 budget for a VERY capable grinder. To put this in perspective, a KMG grinder with 3 pulley speeds (not VFD) a 1.5hp motor and ONE tool arm will run you $1,276.50, plus 39$ switch kit and shipping costs ($100-$150.) Of course, that does not take labor and time into account, you will have to determine whether or not you have more money than time and what your effort is worth. =)

Expenses I incurred but did not 'count' in the cost of the grinder were the wiring, breakers, outlet boxes and associated parts for the new 220v circuit that I had to install in my shop to support the motor & VFD. Not everyone will need to do this so I don't include it in the total grinder cost. I also built the sturdy table you see in the slide show but that was made from scrap treated lumber that I already had on hand.

Things left to do:
Build the contact wheel attachment
Fine tune tracking, there is a very slight amount of play in the vertical tracking tube that's giving me some issues but nothing that won't get fixed. I may possibly change the tracking from plunger style vertical tube to a more traditional horizontal pivot.
Clean up wiring and mount external on/off/speed control switch box.
Take a final "after" pic and post it here. =)

Hope this helps someone, it's been a fun project.

Derek
 
Gotta say well done on the build!! I have those same plans saved and love the pure simplicity of it. I would beef up the enclosure for the vfd though, that steel dust gets EVERYWHERE!!! And will fry the vfd super easy if it isn't dust proof. But regardless you had me at Red :) super clean build
 
Thanks! Yeah, I was trying avoid the cost of a nema enclosure for the VFD but I've decided to go ahead and get one. That wood box wasn't the best idea I've ever had. ;)
 
Derek,

Your grinder build is the best I've seen. Thanks for taking videos and showing and explaining so much.

Dan
 
Great build and pictures. I am in a similar boat to you. I have access to a very nice welder but no experience. BUT I like learning so I am just sorting through how much work I want to do.

Question. I've been looking at the lever styled tracking arm instead of the pillar style that you have. Mostly because in Comeau's blog he mentions having to shim the pillar with plastic to take up some slack. Did you have to do that too? Are you finding that the tension pillar is putting enough pressure on the belt?
 
Yes, after building this one I would likely go with a lever style horizontal tracking arm (and still may at some point). I did have to shim and actually welded a 1/8th inch by 1.5 inch piece of mild steel to the tension pillar so I wouldn't have to shim as much. It's working fine now but I think the other method may result in a more solid tracking mechanism. Mine still has enough play in it so that when I adjust tracking it wanders a bit due to the twisting that occurs. Too much shim and it binds, too little and it flexes. It's a fine line.
 
The linear motion of the tracking wheel is unique and cool. However, I'm wondering about vibration there (between the tracking post and the mating vertical receiver).

Also, I see no apparent means of removing tension when changing belts. How do you do that?
 
You push down on the tracking wheel arm. It has a spring in it that gives tension. I think that threaded post at the top is for a ball so it is easier to push down. The guy who dmelton got these plans from used a spring that gave about 30 lbs of pressure when it was compressed 1".
 
Yep. Exactly. I believe Dan gives credit to the guy who he got his idea from. Basically all these grinders are styles after something like the KMG. The tracking pillar does have a spring under it. You use shims or get the material to fit close enough to resolve any vibration or binding issues.
 
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