The Tormek watercooled grinding machines

G

Gurba

Joined
Oct 1, 2015
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Hi New to the forum and since I can't find a Tormek thread I thought I would start one to share experiences and tips on how to best use the Tormek.

I have the T-7 with the HTK-706 jig kit whitch covers most of the tools lying around the house.

I have had this for about a week and it takes some time to hone the skills, pardon the pun. Some knives I get pretty sharp and others I struggle with. Especially the filet knives I am having a hard time getting to where I want them. So if others own this kit I would really like to hear from you.

http://www.tormek.com/en/machines/t7/index.php

http://www.tormek.com/en/kits/htk706.php
 
I got nothing for you but I still love the idea of a slow going water-cooled grinding wheel. Now, the edges will be slightly concave, not sure whether this is affecting performance and longevity. I believe particularly for a kitchen knife this is great. At least on my axe I would not want that type of bevel however.
 
My experience with the Tormek was love and hate. I loved what the Japanese waterstone would do to my chisels, planes and knives but I had a ton of trouble trying to get repetitive results. I spent too much time tinkering with the setup each time. I got frustrated and sold it.

I'm not convinced it was the machine though. In fact, it was probably my impatience that was the problem...
 
Concave edges like concave bevels are a foundation for weakness and wedging. The shape itself tends to lodge in the material being cut. Its an ok shape for cutting paper or the like but any thing thicker and the shape will stick or wedge.
Hollow grinds were first presented to the slaughtering industry where they were quickly rejected, because, first off the hollowing out of the bevels made their useful life far less than blades that were flat ground and the thinned edge was weak.
The only benefit to hollow anything is the degree of sharp relative to the existing geometry. They are sharp, just not for very long.

For the money and as far as acquiring a machine that will serve you well, a horizontal disc machine of some type would be far more useful. Putting together a misting system can be put together for 150 dollars if you have an air compressor.

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Yes the edge will be hollow ground but I don't create very long edges so for me this is not a problem. Maybe the edge retention suffers but I don't mind maintaining the edge with the leather wheel on the Tormek or a rod for the kitchen knives.
 
The so-called "hollow ground" edge that a 10-inch diameter Tormek stone grinds is virtually identical to a standard V edge. There is no performance difference.
 
Twindog said:
The so-called "hollow ground" edge that a 10-inch diameter Tormek stone grinds is virtually identical to a standard V edge. There is no performance difference.
Click to expand...
It's virtually the same but not actually the same. This shape increases shoulder projection related to its curved geometry and this creates drag as well. If you put a hollow ground edge on a knife with hollow ground bevels the drag increases even more. It is a sharp edge, just not with as much strength as a flat or a convex edge. No particular edge has it all.

The smaller the height of an edge that has been hollow ground the closer to flat edge performance. The opposite is true as edge height increases.

I have a Tormek and do use it in some situations, just not on blades where strength is the primary driver.

Regards, Fred
 
Wouldn't using this machine freehand pretty much make it impossible to end up with a hollow ground edge? Why not just do this if you're concerned about it?
 
I like my Tormek but I don't use it for knives (I prefer stones). The Tormek is great for all other utility type cutting or chopping edges. My only issue is that it's really an accessory based system so the cost can mount up quickly if it's to be ones go to tool for a variety of edge making and maintaining purposes. The concept is great and the Tormek is actually fun to use - and it's safe compared to belts and hi-speed grinders!
 
A flat edge can be produced by working on the side of the wheel (the low speed allows this, unlike with high speed grinding wheels) and/or holding the tool at a slant to the stone. Using wheels is a whole different skill set compared to regular methods.
 
My tip on how to best use the T7 is to get rid of all the jigs and the rest; be happy you got the 250mm stone-system instead of the T5-200mm and just strip it down to its bare bones where you have the stone exposed as much as possible. The Tormek is a very precise system. I'm getting a serpentine belt to spin the stone on mine instead of the contact wheel. Freehand — there is no substitute for skill.
 
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