The two best Busse bushcraft knives ever?

well, I wear a size 14 shoe and ring, and XL gloves are tight. I like a handle that is at least 5 and a half inches long.
That the handle is so thin is more of an issue though. Very difficult to get a grip on it.
Most of my knives are custom made, because of the size issues.

I wear a 15 shoe but you have me beat on the ring size. I must have skinny fingers but I normally can't get XL gloves on without a struggle and then the fingers are always too short. I don't have my CABS LE yet but I have had a BOSS Street proto and the handle length was fine for me because the shape of the handle kept the pummel from poking in my palm. I like a good balance between blade length and handle length. Thickness isn't too big of a deal.
 
well, I wear a size 14 shoe and ring, and XL gloves are tight. I like a handle that is at least 5 and a half inches long.
That the handle is so thin is more of an issue though. Very difficult to get a grip on it.
Most of my knives are custom made, because of the size issues.

2xl gloves are tight on my hands, often tearing the seams after some wear.

The size of the handle, length wise is perfect.

I do get what you are saying about the thickness of the scales. Not too hard of a fix, but you would likely have to send it out. I am tempted to try my hand at removing the scales (but I have a scrap broken Busse that I picked up in a deal to get the steel to try this out with first). I do know that a lot of bushcrafter knives come with thicker than normal scales, because some find the fatter grip gives better control with less hand fatigue.

I have some liners that I could add.

The melted spine does present a problem for ferro striking. Not too hard to fix, however. You can flatten the tail (would likely be the easiest fix). Or a spot on the spine if you wanted.

In looking at the edge on mine, there is enough of a flat spot on the edge, hard up against the talon hole to strike a spark easily. On my home made ferro rod, I am attaching a tiny light designated scraper that adds no weight, and almost no bulk at all.

I love the look of the back paper, but it is not as grippy as canvas or linen. I will have to use it for some time before I make any decisions. I would not hesitate to take it into the field as a bushcraft knife though.
 
The handle is thin, I plan on getting some liners added.

Lengthwise, I'm surprised that it's too short, but everyone's different. I wear a size 10 glove (XXL), and a size 16 ring.

The firesteel thing. Eh, I'd rather have the knife rounded. I use the striker that comes with the firesteel.

In the end, nothing fits everyone perfectly.
 
I like the thinner handle... but my hands are fairly meaty, so there's not a whole lot of room when I close my fist compared to someone with leaner hands of the same size.
 
There's not much wear to show since I just polished up the edge before I took that picture... just a few sheath rubs really. But here's proof of it being used!

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That was minor use, though. I don't typically take a camera with me to the woods, so I guess you'll just have to trust me.

Speaking of that edge polishing, though...

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...my photography skills suck.
 
I do have and like both those knives.

But some of the Old School knives were pretty great, too.:) You should get your hands on an ABA or BAIII, a Little Ugly, and perhaps an original Steel Heart or SHBM. Those old designs were pretty high performance.:thumbup:

Like many things your bushcraft depends on what bush you're in at the time. Some can be more demanding of your tool or its size.

But I agree that the SHBM and BA-III are two of several that would work very well. The ASH, Sarsquatch, Active Duty are great.

One big knife that is often over looked are the Ergo Mistresses... about the same blade, overall shorter, less demand for them so less money, and this ZT is A LOT lighter (yes this one isn't used - I have used a few others :thumbup:)















 
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