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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
The *ultimate* pocket knife!!!
- Thread starter Jim March
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 16, 1998
- Messages
- 307
O.K. Jim how is this?
2cil inline 3.5hp 25000 rpm engine.
pyro starting.
titanium frame-G10 handle.
12"O.A.L. EST
24 weeks R+D EST
12 weeks for delivery turnaround.
ED
2cil inline 3.5hp 25000 rpm engine.
pyro starting.
titanium frame-G10 handle.
12"O.A.L. EST
24 weeks R+D EST
12 weeks for delivery turnaround.
ED
- Joined
- Oct 3, 1998
- Messages
- 94
I've been hopeing for a miniture version of
the Jedi Knight's light saber about the size
of an ink pen with a 6 inch beam.
the Jedi Knight's light saber about the size
of an ink pen with a 6 inch beam.
Jim March
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Oct 7, 1998
- Messages
- 3,018
OK, let's think this out.
Take a lightweight bicycle chain and use a link puller to disassemble it completely. Use nothing but "master links" and on each master side with the two posts sticking out, spot-weld small blades on. Reassemble in normal fashion, you've got your chain - compatible with small-grade bicycle sprockets widely available. Assemble it with the master caps on alternating sides...the total blade width will be wider than a conventional chainsaw...hmmm...is that a bad idea? It'll have less friction in operation than a standard chainsaw blade, at least based on how I remember my dad's chainsaw working.
You'd need a 4" grip, a 6" blade and 4" max for the engine assembly (MUCH smaller than 3.5HP, think closer to a .5 COX or whatever motor). At that point it's a genuine belt sheath knife (!!!). The single hardest thing to build might be the pull-start mechanism, the rest I could probably figure out but I don't know what device to abuse and adapt to such purposes. Most of the rest is just altered off-the-shelf crap.
Jim March
Take a lightweight bicycle chain and use a link puller to disassemble it completely. Use nothing but "master links" and on each master side with the two posts sticking out, spot-weld small blades on. Reassemble in normal fashion, you've got your chain - compatible with small-grade bicycle sprockets widely available. Assemble it with the master caps on alternating sides...the total blade width will be wider than a conventional chainsaw...hmmm...is that a bad idea? It'll have less friction in operation than a standard chainsaw blade, at least based on how I remember my dad's chainsaw working.
You'd need a 4" grip, a 6" blade and 4" max for the engine assembly (MUCH smaller than 3.5HP, think closer to a .5 COX or whatever motor). At that point it's a genuine belt sheath knife (!!!). The single hardest thing to build might be the pull-start mechanism, the rest I could probably figure out but I don't know what device to abuse and adapt to such purposes. Most of the rest is just altered off-the-shelf crap.
Jim March
- Joined
- Oct 16, 1998
- Messages
- 307
the 3.5HP IM talking about is for r/c planes.
it is 6" or so long and 3" or so high.
like a cox .5 only larger and it's a twin.
I'll look for a web site so you can see one.
ED
it is 6" or so long and 3" or so high.
like a cox .5 only larger and it's a twin.
I'll look for a web site so you can see one.
ED
Oh boy here we go! I seen to recall some 4WD RC cars using a chain drive. The chains are quite narrow but sturdy for their size. Blades could be silver soldered to the links. A ring,pinion,and bearings and clutch from the car could be used with an O.S. .12 CVX or something equally nasty but small running on 30percent nitro! All that could be mounted on a plate that extended into a grip and covered by a housing a little bigger than a clenched fist. Now a titanium bar for the chain a couple of RC car sprockets with bearings in splash anodized aluminum pillow blocks. The housing could be a carbon fiber laminate and the grip ,full tang of course,with G11 scales and a splash anodized aluminum trigger with ball link and titanium turnbuckle linkage to the carb. < peals of maniacal laughter> Uh-oh it`s time for my medication.
Marcus