The ultimate Sea-farers knive

[Charlie Mike]

[video=youtube;jdsidCzC3q0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jdsidCzC3q0[/video]

 

[mete]

Helleri, I was told that a knife like yours has been very popular on the Pacific coast as it is very handy for mending fishing nets with the marlin spike.

 

[Seilu]

Do yourself a favor and CHECK these out: FOX ocean master titanium

Extreme ratio divers knife

 

[fausto nasafiaschi]

Former pax ships staff captain, actually moved ashore as yard captain in a shipyard and barge capt on the yard standard barge.
Whdn on pax ships i use to purchase and issue mora knoves to the deck crew. Also used to gift leatherman waves to oustanding ones.
With my actual line of work, I carry a fully serrated byrd cara cara rescue when doing ropework / moorings. Costs little money and cuts through mooring ropes and messengers line like a laser.
If i would spend more time on deck, I would consider purchasing a leatherman surge to carry along.

 

[fausto nasafiaschi]

Sorry for the typos, writing from my cell phone....

 

[strategy9]

My working knife is the Gerber Paracord, personally i'm a spyderco fan, but can't get it over my heart to abuse my folders on board, so a fixed blade is the better option for me. Tried some, but the paracord has good grip in all conditions, to bad it is not so good in holding a sharp edge for long.

Btw, i am a maritime officer on a anchor handling tug supply vessel.

So a few things I took note to: First, and unfortunately for you, the Gerber is made from 5cr15mov, a very entry level knife Steel, similar to Buck 420hc or Case "trusharp" on paper, but without the proven heat treat of those companies and with an inferior warranty behind their product creating less of a demand for tight tolerances, the Gerber is flat out junk for a work knife that needs to hold an edge.

I also realized you said you can't bring yourself to "abuse" your folders (spyderco's), hinting at 2 things, A) you're knives you use onboard see very tough use (abuse), which makes sense as tug work is hard work, and B) you may not be inclined to "abuse" an expensive fixed blade either... Considering you can't have a work knife onboard a sea vessel, that you have reservations about using, (rough seas and tangled riggings, could spell disaster, and hesitation Is not an option), so that means the David Boye options are not an option, as they cost a bit, and may even strike out the Spyderco Aqua Salt option in H1 Steel, though they can be found for just about $100 (u.s.)

I get it, I lost a $100 Griptilian into the drink once when I was a dock builder, and never carried a knife worth more then $50 onto the barge again.

Even though the cobalt and h1 Steel are impervious to rust, as it has been pointed out, any "stainless" Steel will resist rust, and with proper care should never rust, but, proper care is a must, as with seawater, all it takes is a day or two in some cases of "whoops I forgot" and spots can start forming especially on the edge, another thing I know all too well after forgetting a knife onboard the barge for a couple days due to weather, covered, and returning to find rust forming... Also while all stainless will resist rust, some better then others, as a hard use knife (as you implied, even "abuse" level), some are not very "tough" and tend to be more prone to chipping and breaking, which the higher risk if catastrophic failure is not an option you'd want to risk at sea...

440c, n695, n680, n690, vg10, 154cm, and even 12c27 are all steels that properly done have a good reputation of balanced properties between good corrosion resistence, AND good toughness, while holding an edge respectably, (and in many cases can be had at reasonable prices)

Fox Knives makes some nice affordable options in n690 and 12c27 in their European Hunter line1502-OL and the 620/13 with a stacked leather handle. Or the compso fx-304 with g10.

Böker's Plus/Arbolito lines make some nice affordable options in 440c and n695, like the Krein Bulldog or Dano

Real Steel Observer is an attractive option in 440c with a textured g10 handle... (I actually think I might even buy one of these soon).

But if you really do like the "feel" of your paracord wrapped Gerber handle, I can't recommend more strongly a stainless ESEE Izula and wrap the handle yourself, or the Böker Plus Prime prewrapped... Both 440c, the ESEE will be about a half inch shorter in the blade and cutting edge then your Gerber, but considerably lighter, the Prime will be much closer in size as your Gerber, but on steroids, thicker, and noticeably heavier.

Also, as many times before, I'd say get a stainless Mora, the santoprene handle provides good grip even when wet, and for cost, can't be beat.

 

[iMarcoU]

So a few things I took note to: First, and unfortunately for you, the Gerber is made from 5cr15mov, a very entry level knife Steel, similar to Buck 420hc or Case "trusharp" on paper, but without the proven heat treat of those companies and with an inferior warranty behind their product creating less of a demand for tight tolerances, the Gerber is flat out junk for a work knife that needs to hold an edge.

I also realized you said you can't bring yourself to "abuse" your folders (spyderco's), hinting at 2 things, A) you're knives you use onboard see very tough use (abuse), which makes sense as tug work is hard work, and B) you may not be inclined to "abuse" an expensive fixed blade either... Considering you can't have a work knife onboard a sea vessel, that you have reservations about using, (rough seas and tangled riggings, could spell disaster, and hesitation Is not an option), so that means the David Boye options are not an option, as they cost a bit, and may even strike out the Spyderco Aqua Salt option in H1 Steel, though they can be found for just about $100 (u.s.)

I get it, I lost a $100 Griptilian into the drink once when I was a dock builder, and never carried a knife worth more then $50 onto the barge again.

Even though the cobalt and h1 Steel are impervious to rust, as it has been pointed out, any "stainless" Steel will resist rust, and with proper care should never rust, but, proper care is a must, as with seawater, all it takes is a day or two in some cases of "whoops I forgot" and spots can start forming especially on the edge, another thing I know all too well after forgetting a knife onboard the barge for a couple days due to weather, covered, and returning to find rust forming... Also while all stainless will resist rust, some better then others, as a hard use knife (as you implied, even "abuse" level), some are not very "tough" and tend to be more prone to chipping and breaking, which the higher risk if catastrophic failure is not an option you'd want to risk at sea...

440c, n695, n680, n690, vg10, 154cm, and even 12c27 are all steels that properly done have a good reputation of balanced properties between good corrosion resistence, AND good toughness, while holding an edge respectably, (and in many cases can be had at reasonable prices)

Fox Knives makes some nice affordable options in n690 and 12c27 in their European Hunter line1502-OL and the 620/13 with a stacked leather handle. Or the compso fx-304 with g10.

Böker's Plus/Arbolito lines make some nice affordable options in 440c and n695, like the Krein Bulldog or Dano

Real Steel Observer is an attractive option in 440c with a textured g10 handle... (I actually think I might even buy one of these soon).

But if you really do like the "feel" of your paracord wrapped Gerber handle, I can't recommend more strongly a stainless ESEE Izula and wrap the handle yourself, or the Böker Plus Prime prewrapped... Both 440c, the ESEE will be about a half inch shorter in the blade and cutting edge then your Gerber, but considerably lighter, the Prime will be much closer in size as your Gerber, but on steroids, thicker, and noticeably heavier.

Also, as many times before, I'd say get a stainless Mora, the santoprene handle provides good grip even when wet, and for cost, can't be beat.

True, the gerber is a piece of garbage. Thanks for your advise! Really like that real steel observer!

 

[swonut]

I was a shipscarpenter in the Swedish Navy and I served onboard a Mineship.

This one: HMS Älvsborg

[/url] © Folke Österman[/IMG]

During my servicetime,I never saw any fixed knives except for a few Mora 511's.
One of them was in my toolbox and I used it frequently as a carpenter.
The Bosun had one for ropework.

If it would be today, I would bring a Leatherman Charge Multi-Tool and a Mora Pro S.


Regards
Mikael

I too served aboard a Mine Hunter, amongst a few other hulls from DDG's to CVN's. Loved the small crew. I saw mostly buck 110 folders and Camillus Rigging Knives. Here's my Buck riggers knife. I never carried a leatherman, mostly because someone else always had one, so I'd just say, "Who's got a leatheman?" and one would appear.

 

[T.K.C.]

David Boye BDC (cobalt) knives...

Or one of the Spyderco salt's in H1 Steel


Either one won't rust...

These two are EXACTLY what I was going to recommend. So, +1 for Boye and/or something from the Spyderco Salt series.

 

[Jonathans]

I know this is an old thread but I feel folks will take a look see in order to determine which marine knife to purchase. I was a commercial trawler deckhand and captain for many years, as well as a commercial fisherman utilizing many types of gear. I also ran a net shop where we made and repaired nets of all sorts.
The best deck/rope/net knife, hands down is the Victorinox serrated paring. Coupled with a canvas sheath it will set you back at least $5. 95% of commercial fishermen in Alaska have one of these on their belt at all times, for work, and safety. They are razor sharp, and will cut through the toughest line with one swipe. They also sharpen very quickly on a ceramic triangle sharpener.
View attachment 644842
Now keep in mind that this is a fixed blade belt knife. If you know how to splice three braid line, you will want a rigging knife with an attached fid, which is used to spread the braids open so you can feed one of the braids through in the splicing process. The fid is also handy for loosening shackles. If you don't know how to splice, don't waste your money on a rigging knife, unless you plan to work with a lot of shackles.

If you don't scoff my experience, and give the vicky a chance, it will blow your socks off. Oh, and your wife will love a couple of these in the kitchen as well!

 

[zzyzzogeton]

In a US Navy career similar to that of swonut, I served as a Surface Warfare Officer or SWO (aka ship driver ). Over my career, I served on an AD (Destroyer Tender), Amphibs (2x - LPDs, 1x - LCC), an AO (fleet oiler), a CV (aircraft carrier) and an FF (Fast Frigate). Fixed blades were generally frowned upon by my COs and XOs, I carried my venerable Buck 110 in a belt sheath and a no-name all stainless steel lock back in my LFP. After finding a 1950s Kabar Rigging Knife in a pawn shop in San Diego, I carried that instead of the stainless lock back.

An interesting anecdote (at least to me), -- prior to getting commissioned in 1977, I read up on the duties of a junior SWO, one of which is being a Boat Officer (he who gets held responsible if any thing goes wrong - I mean really - how many boot Ensigns know what they're doing? ). According to the regulations I read at the time, every boat crewman was supposed to carry either a USN MK1 or a USN MK2 fixed blade knife. So being the dutiful officer-to-be, I went to the local Army/Navy Surplus store to see what I could find. They had a 30 gallon barrel full of MK1s and another full of MK2s. I bought a MK2 (and a cool looking Chassepot bayonet). A couple of days later, I went back and got a MK1, "just in case" I needed one.

Fast forward to October 1977. During an Amphibious Training Exercise with the Philippine Navy off Mindoro Island, I was assigned to be the Boat Officer for the medical boat. At 0-dark-thirty, I strapped on my MK2, went to the boat deck and got in my assigned boat. Being dark, and wearing the standard USN kapok life jacket, the MK2 went unobserved.

15 hours later, while taking off the life jacket after returning to the ship, the XO happened to be on deck and saw it.

He asked "What the hell is that thing!!!!"

Being a rather dumb Ensign, I answered literally "It's a WW2 USN MK2. I couldn't find a new one anywhere."

"Why are you wearing it?"

"The regulations say every small boat crewman should carry a MK1 or a MK2 during boat ops. So I bought 1 of each last summer, but all I could find was old ones, so that's what I got."

Turns out in typical bureaucratic inertia, an check showed that the Navy had changed the requirement to carry fixed blades a year or so before, but had never gotten around to change the "required equipment" lists in the regulations. In fact, the ship I was on didn't even have any MK1s or MK2s on board. All boat crew were using private purchase Buck 110s or Schrade LB7s.

After a little wrangling, since the regs didn't prohibit the use of a MK1 or a MK2, the XO let me use them for boat ops, after I showed him that they were quicker to use.

 

[ATJ999]

I have a few Stellite knives. Some all Ti hardware, non ferrous folders, to standard folder with regular hardware, to fixed blades. It is such an amazing metal!!! I have heard people say how soft it is, but I have literally chopped a dried up, extra hard pine stump with one of my stellite fixed blades. Chopped on it for a good 5 minutes straight, out of curiosity. I know, stupid. Anyway, it would still slice through paper like nothing, also shave some hair. I was so amazed the edge did not roll! Edge was in surprisingly great shape.

Anyway back to the sea. I fish a couple times a week. Always take my stellite blade(s) with me. It is so easy to sharpen, gets razor sharp, holds an edge, and has a pretty toothy edge. Which is nice for cutting all kinds of meats. I will say sharpening is a little different than steel, but not much.

I have one of David Boye cobalt alloy(just like stellite) knives, one of his fixed blades. Great metal! I would go for one of those folders for sure!!

The Nitrogen steels would also be a great choice! Have not tried them, but really want to!!

 

[Stelth]

 

[Coastiekevink]

one of my best friends is joining the coast guard, an I plan on gifting him a spyderco tusk once he finishes basic

Been in the USCG for 26 years and counting. I could tell your friend a thing or two. Most of us Coasties use Myerchin Marline spikes. Both folders and fixed blades...the fixed blades come with a separate spike attached to the sheath. Have to admit I don't carry them much. Most of us seem to use one hand opening folders with pocket clip.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[SALTY]

Offshore fishing, diving and cruising is just about all of my sea time. A Leatherman is very handy but you have to stay on top of maintenance lest rust start.

In addition, I will always have a knife on my person onbaord and I have become partial to the Spyderco Salt knives. Take a typical mission in The Keys:

I'll be wearing lightweight quick drying fishing shorts with the lightweight belt (not very useful) that comes with the shorts. Lightweight is important and Spyderco Salt folders are light. When it's hot, we hardly miss a chance to get into the water. H1 is nice for this because you do not have to give it a second thought. It stays in my pocket all day and into the night. I'm honestly more concerned about the chlorine in the pool than I am the salt in the ocean as it pertains to my knife. These knives don't see real abusive tasks so I cannot comment on H1's toughness or edge retention as I'm pretty good about keeping the edge keen.

Opening a bait package, cutting line (mono or rope), food prep and slicing limes for cocktails is the normal day (and night) for my Salt folders. I've been known to have two on me, a plain edge and a serrated ... if nothing else, it keeps the cocktail limes from tasting like ballyhoo!

If leaving the good old USA and hopping to Bimini, the black folders could, perhaps be seen as a tactical weapon where the exact same knife in Rescue Yellow just seems like what it is: another piece of kit for a diver, fisherman and boater and hardly gets a thought or second look.

 

[ThePeacent]

Salt series is the answer, period.

Be it a cute small folder in the back pocket,

a large, but compact and lightweight blade clipped to your suit

or a bigger, tougher fixed knife by your side,

there is a Salt for every person, occasion and situation when corrosion and rust are your tools' enemies :thumbup:

 

[Coastiekevink]

I've hear that a rigging knife is most useful for sailors.

[not mine. example image]
I wonder if that is firstly true; and secondly if it's the same for boaters. Or if there are substantially different enough needs that it has to be another type.

We use to get issue that exact "marlinespike". Camillus used to make them. They made some for Buck as well. The spike would lock back but not the main blade. Still have two here myself.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[daizee]

0.140" thick 154CM, G10, blue canvas mycarta (by our 710), and brass tubes:

I'm also finishing up the third of these (CPM154 & G10), but don't carry one because I've got the above in matching livery.:

 

[T.K.C.]

My beach/ salt water knife is a Spyder Salt 1.

 

[ATJ999]

The Salt line seem very cool! I really like those fixed blades. I gotta try one sometime.