The "Whiz Kid" Kami does good work

One thing's certain- he won't be a Bura. Two men approach excellence in different ways.

On the uneven tempering lines: ever had a gun with a sloppy action, worn crown, and gouges inside the barrel and it still shot tremendous? I have. We add things up and think we know something, and I get a kick when something beats our brains. The scientists think of data we didn't apply, I think we're close to magic.

munk
 
on etching? why, yes. I've etched with vinegar, carbonated soda (carbonic acid), copper sulfate (also plates metal), phosphoric acid, hydrochloric acid, muriatic acid, and (my fave) ferric chloride, as well as fruit acids. Try concentrated lime ade sometime. Any of these methods will result in a visible temper line, and you can accent the temper by successively fine polishing by hand.

Microcaust...
If you zoom in to the molecular level of the khuk blade, you've got Iron molecules, Carbon molecules, and a few other trace metal molecules. On the chemical - molecular level, the etchants contain some powerful solvents that can blasically unglue electrons from the Fe atom. Etchants attack the electron-rich Iron molecules, swiping electrons and generally causing molecular havoc for the hapless Fe molecules on the surface. This process leaves behind a powdery residue of loosely piled carbon molecules (the greyish and blackish appearance after you etch is this). Since the molecules in the tempered area are crystalline from the rapid cooling of the tempering process, there is a different rate of etching, and a deep etch will reveal different chatacteristics in the steel.

You can use etching to discover things about the temper of the blade too, like if it was quenched too fast (and thus is too brittle) or if it was cooled too slowly (resulting in too soft a blade) This is a whole discipline unto itself, and borders on alchemy and metallurgy.

Etchants:
The chemicals mentioned above do act at different rates, and a few will work well on other metals as well. Some acids can give off nasty voaltile gases when used to etch cetain metals, so do familiarize yourself with the chemicals and safety proceudres ahead of time. Etching with natural strength agents like carbonated soda, fruits, veggies, vinegars, wines, etc is relatively safe, and a good place to start your etching.

Resists.
After you get some stuff to etch, you can use certian tapes, markers, paints, and waxes to coat the blade, then you draw out some designs and cut/draw/scrape thru the resitst, so that metal is exposed. that will be the part that gets etched.
The resist is called that because it resists the etchant, ensuring that the area it covers does not get etched.
You dump the piece in the etchant, then when you finish etchig, you fish the piece out, neutralize the remaining etchant, and removwe the mask.

Oops. I guess I always have something to say about etching. What does this have to do wuth khuks? Well, ...something...

Keith
 
2 more things to add on funny temper lines. One possibility is grease. Even minute traces of grease can mess up an etch. Degreasing the blade before etching is extremely critical. Another possibility, if the kamis are using leaf springs from mercedes, and those spring are any way near related to standard 5160 for most car springs (dunno what mercedes uses), 5160 is notorious for not showing the temper well. I guess its because of the slight chromium content, can throw of the etch somewhat. So sometimes the temper line shows, sometimes it doesnt. There are ways to force it, but Ive never been one to force stuff into steel. I like the random aspects to what will be seen in etching. As for etchants, I like using lemon juice (citric acid) because it doesnt stink as much as vinegar, seems to clean a little better (especially for rusty blades), and is slightly more aggressive. However I have noticed that it sometimes tends to etch white. Especially with unknown quantities in old steel, its hard to explain. Ferric Choloride, gives very predictable color, and will give the expected greys and blacks. Though there is something about a good citrus etch that speaks to me more than other chemical etchants. I suppose its the whole if its good enough for my ancestors routine.
 
If Sher is working with him (Training Him) like I think he is then he will be very very good. :D

But then everyone has their own way of doing things and that has to develope over time.

Sher and Kumar are brothers, Sher has been making Khuk's alot longer than Kumar and it shows. Both are excellent, fit and finish for both brothers are very good, but Sher has the edge from what I have seen.
 
and i've seen the opposite. Sher can make pretty when he wants, but his first order seems to always be function. Kumar's are better finished. He also believed in function. it is close, especially since bura was ill the two of them have 'stepped up'.

munk
 
Munk,

I have a 18" GS by Kumar and it is beautiful to say the least, fit and finish are excellent. But the edge needed alot of work in the sweet spot (Thicker in that area) to get an edge on it.
 
and I've a Sher AK which was not the finest finish HI can do and also needed some edge work. Actually Ank, many of my blades need edge work when they arrive.

I percieved Sher started paying more attention to finish since he came back and is competing with his brother Kumar. Kumar put out outstanding stuff, just outstanding the last few months. I've a Kumar m43-hanshee that Bill called the best looking rig he'd seen in a year.

But neither of us, based upon our own blades and the limited usefullness of the photos here can have an accurate opinion on who does what best. There can be a concensus built from all the forumite voices, but actually only Bill is in the unique position to make the best estimate of who does best. Rusty may have seen enough to make a wager.

munk
 
Munk,

I have 4 Sher AK's and all of them had very good edges on them, all I had to do was a light touch up and they were fine. Lucky I guess. ;) Except for the 20" AK that was very, very sharp.

I will say this though, the 16.5" Chi AK by Shanker came shaving sharp, didn't have to touch it.:eek: My BAS by him was the same way.
 
Munk,


I have a 18" Sirupati coming soon, should be Kumar, might be Sher.

I can't loose either way.:D
 
NO, you can't. I used to think Kumar was better with horn than Sher, but I'm not sure about that anymore. Bill started with "kumar makes the best horn handles" and over a few weeks changed to 'Kumar and Sher make the best horn handles" If I've got you wrong Bill please strike me dead from this earth and scatter my ashes on the floor of the men's bathroom at your favorite casino.
I think it really depends upon what Sher wants to do.

munk
 
Munk,

3 of my Sher AK's have Horn handles and the Silver Mounted Engraved has a wood handle. Very nice work indeed.

My Tarwar is Sher made and has a Horn handle.

My Kumar made GS has a wood Handle and it is well done, maybe one day I will get something with a Horn handle by him.
 
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