Thicker stock AEB-L hardness

Robert Erickson

Robert Erickson

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Feb 2, 2014
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I've got some thicker stock AEB-L from AKS that I'm currently working on. I've got some 0.15" stock that I'm planning on making hunters with. Most of these will have 3-4" cutting edge, full flat grind, edge thickness around 0.008" to 0.010". I've also got some 0.19" that I'd like to make some light chopper/camping knives with. These will have 6-7" cutting edge, high to full flat grind and taken down to 0.015" to 0.02" edge.
I'm wondering what hardness to go with for each type. I'm thinking RC61 for the hunters but curious what you all would consider for the larger blades? Have any of you gone higher RC with the thicker AEB-L or should I go with RC59 ish?
 
It is the edge that does the work. Hardness has little to do with thickness. If anything, you can usually go higher with a thicker blade.

I would think an AEB-L hunter would be great at Rc61.

I rarely make a hunter with only a 3-4" blade in any steel thicker than .125". I actually prefer around .100" the best. .15" is what I use for a big camp knife.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
It is the edge that does the work. Hardness has little to do with thickness. If anything, you can usually go higher with a thicker blade.

I would think an AEB-L hunter would be great at Rc61.

I rarely make a hunter with only a 3-4" blade in any steel thicker than .125". I actually prefer around .100" the best. .15" is what I use for a big camp knife.
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Thanks Stacy. So on the 0.19" for the camp knives it would be ok to shoot for 61 as well?
On the shorter hunters maybe I should hollow grind them?
 
I think AEB-L performs very well at Rc60-61.

It performs very well in very thin edge thickness ... thus its use in razor blades ... so the hollow grind would be good. There is nothing wrong with making a chopper from it, but other steels are better suited to that task.
 
Ive used RC 61-62 on my aebl camping knives. I used one for some pretty heavy battoning. I got the edge to roll a bit rather than chip at that hardness and about .012 behind the edge. Id rather the roll than a chip but thats personal preference i guess
 
And remember that those razor blades are probably HT'ed using less than optimum methods compared to those that some of our knife friends have developed.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
I think AEB-L performs very well at Rc60-61.

It performs very well in very thin edge thickness ... thus its use in razor blades ... so the hollow grind would be good. There is nothing wrong with making a chopper from it, but other steels are better suited to that task.
Click to expand...
 
That sounds like what W2 does at those hardness levels. :D
timos- said:
Ive used RC 61-62 on my aebl camping knives. I used one for some pretty heavy battoning. I got the edge to roll a bit rather than chip at that hardness and about .012 behind the edge. Id rather the roll than a chip but thats personal preference i guess
Click to expand...
 
Run AEB-L on the harder side and thin too, it really performs. The toughness really surprised me.

Check out Gavko's videos on youtube, he shows some AEB-L choppers doing very impressive stuff!
 
Just a thought/note. As makers, 60-61RC might be "great" and is doable. But many real world users like something they/we can sharpen without too much trouble.
A knife that is too hard, has an odd angle edge, or difficult in any way, will often get used until dull, resharpened on a "as seen on TV pull through gizmo," then gets left in the junk drawer by many folks.
Dozier
 
Good Point Dozier.
Have you guys found that AEB-L at 61 more difficult to sharpen?
My experience with it in the kitchen has been favorable in terms of edge retention and ease of sharpening. That's one of the reasons I am intrigued by the thicker stock stuff that now available for other uses.
 
AEB-L at 62-63 is surprisingly easy to resharpen.

One test I tried with a .080" HRC 62 AEB-L kitchen knife was cutting cardboard. When I finished cutting I stropped the edge on the cardboard for about a minute. I was surprised when the edge came back. It was not hair popping sharp, but it was sharp enough to continue cutting cardboard.

Chuck
 
^ good stuff!

I'm still trying to figure out the downside to AEB-L!
 
^ True but my shop knife in AEB-L does great with rayskin and even sandpaper... it really shouldn't in theory but is actually very good. The edge dulls but does not deform back or chip like many very good steels.

I don't play when it comes to heat treat either... move quickly through each step and go straight to cryo from quench/hand cool/cold water dunk.
 
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