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Thickness impact : resistance or slicing ability ?

Alright alright, how thick would you want such knife behind the edge ?

Again i wanna handle LIGHT battoning and chopping, 2-3 inches wood un the worse possible case (for battoning) and 1 inches for chopping...

0.5mm or 0.020" behind an edge sharpened 15-20 dps should be more than enough to handle that. While a thicker edge will grant greater stiffness/strength for harsh use (twisting at the apex, potential pounding against rocks or metal) an edge that is 20-dps and <0.020" at the shoulder leading into 4-6 dps primary bevel will be plenty durable and a reasonably good slicer as well :thumbsup: For a smaller blade, 0.015" is usually stout enough, and for a dedicated slicer you can slim it down to ~0.005" which will also make for easy resharpening.

Here is a schematic of a few outdoor/woods knives comparing edge geometry - the ESEE-6 has a VERY thick edge and can be thinned to improve performance, the Ratmandu had the edge geometry modified to improve performance and doesn't usually come like what you see below, the TOPS BOB has a very thick primary grind that is horrible for slicing but can sure take a beating, the Gerber Strongarm also tends to come pretty thick behind the edge and be aware that their grinds are often uneven, the mid-to-large Survive! Knives come with excellent edge geometry but can be harder to acquire (totally worth it though, imho), and finally the Becker BK16... that knife is a bit small for what you are describing, but the geometry is outstanding. At the bottom is a video of the GSO-5.1 and what it can take.



 
I'll say that I like all types of grinds. Thick ones, thin ones, they all serve a purpose and are cool to me. But if I were to get down to brass tacks, I'd have to say that while a thicker blade may be harder to cut through a given material, all that is needed is more force to get through. I am more than capable of pushing harder on a knife. In terms of strength, the thicker blade will be stronger. There is absolutely nothing I can do to make a thin blade stronger, but I can push a little harder on a thicker knife. *shrugs*
 
0.5mm or 0.020" behind an edge sharpened 15-20 dps should be more than enough to handle that. While a thicker edge will grant greater stiffness/strength for harsh use (twisting at the apex, potential pounding against rocks or metal) an edge that is 20-dps and <0.020" at the shoulder leading into 4-6 dps primary bevel will be plenty durable and a reasonably good slicer as well :thumbsup: For a smaller blade, 0.015" is usually stout enough, and for a dedicated slicer you can slim it down to ~0.005" which will also make for easy resharpening.

Here is a schematic of a few outdoor/woods knives comparing edge geometry - the ESEE-6 has a VERY thick edge and can be thinned to improve performance, the Ratmandu had the edge geometry modified to improve performance and doesn't usually come like what you see below, the TOPS BOB has a very thick primary grind that is horrible for slicing but can sure take a beating, the Gerber Strongarm also tends to come pretty thick behind the edge and be aware that their grinds are often uneven, the mid-to-large Survive! Knives come with excellent edge geometry but can be harder to acquire (totally worth it though, imho), and finally the Becker BK16... that knife is a bit small for what you are describing, but the geometry is outstanding. At the bottom is a video of the GSO-5.1 and what it can take.





Thanks for such accurate information !

The edge geometry picture shows effectively why some some knives are beaters / ok soicers !

I'm 100% going for a thin grind behind the edge next time i'll buy something !

:):):)


I could force more on a thicker blade but the quality of the slice (the impact on the cut material) won't be as good as for a thiner blade, this is the exact reason why my crkt m16 sucks at cutting.
 
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