Thicknessing knife scales

G

golfer1

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Nov 24, 2016
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How do you control final thickness of knife scales. I would like to be able to sand of route the scales to flat sides before shaping and installation. Do you have system you use?
Thanks for looking.
 
For scales, after mounting them I sand them flat both sides.

I then determine what thickness I want at the front, middle and butt.

I mark that thickness on the edges with a scribe, narrow up front, wide at the middle and narrow at the butt for example. I then grind the scales close to those marks and then work in the contours.
 
My solution is to do most of the shaping before attaching the scales. First I use the grinder to get a truly flat surface on each scale. Then I cut the scales to a rough shape of the handle, oversizing it a bit that I deal with once the scales are attached. Then I use a height gauge and grinder to make sure each scale is the same thickness. Then use the same gauge to scribe a line around the bottom of the scale to mark the borders of bevels I want, again grinding this before attaching the scales. Once I'm happy with the rough shape, I attach the scales and once the epoxy has cured, off to the belt grinder to grind off the excess of the corby bolts/pins (I suggest grinding each one only a short bit at a time, going back and forth from one pin to the other (i.e. Pin#1 side A > Pin #2 side A > Pin #1 side B >pin#2 side B, etc) and dunking in water as needed to keep the pins cool and not have them burn a ring around the pin). Then I round out the angles and do the final shaping on the grinder, then a bit of gentle hand sanding with a progression of 800g-1000g-2000g, but I like completely polished pins. I caution you to be careful with the final hand sanding because the handle material is softer than the pins, and if not careful, even with the 2000g, you'll remove scale material quicker then the pin material (not sure if this is true with the carbon fiber rods) you'll be able to feel the pin protruding from the scale, and while fixable, it takes a lot more time and care to make sure you are sanding only the pin and not the scales.
Sorry for being so wordy, but I am Italian....
 
My method is the same as Adam's.

Start out with everything flat, mark the front middle and heal with scribe lines. Grind from front to middle and then heal to middle. Then contour and finish. I find this method easiest for keeping everything even.

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Great help for me. Do you guys use a jig of some kind to grind or sand the scales to the same thickness before you begin? Could you enlarge on that thought?
Thanks much for your help.
 
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I guess I left that part out. After making sure the inside is dead flat, I then use the height gauge set to the thinner of the two and then scribe a line all the way around the thicker scale and then sand/grind to this line. I've also done a few without worrying about this, merely making sure I get the sides symmetrical when shaping...
 
I use a disc sander to make scales flat and parallel using calipers to measure along the way. I also use double stick tape and my surface grinder with the belt atatchment.

Hoss
 
You guys are awesome, the thickness control is what I seem to have the most trouble with. Thanks very much.
 
I made up this jig out of aluminum with carbide strips from ebay. I just lay it on my surface block with something the thickness I want and attach my material with double side tape then back to the disc sander.
Gilbert
dIOMc7cm.jpg
 
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