Thin larger blade bolster question

quint

quint

Joined
Nov 29, 2011
Messages
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So I am working on a slim fighter/bowie type blade, full tang. I was going to go with some stainless bolsters but after thinking about the different wood combos I have to choose from I like the idea of combining a couple types of stabilized wood. One for the scales and the other for the bolsters.

Now the issue I could see is the blade is pretty thin. Its .115 inch thick and 13 inches long overall.

Gut reaction is that if properly pinned and epoxied it should be fine but want others opinions. If it is not a good idea would one solid scale be a better choice.

Thanks.

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Is it going into combat? Hard hard use? I would say eooxied and properly pinned would be fine. I don't have the wealth of knife making knowledge most do here, what I do have is real world experience using knives in ways they were and were't designed to be used.
I personally like the non-traditional more modern absence of steel bolsters and heavy hilts. With today's modern epoxies, most scaled handles pinned to prevent lateral movement have yet to fail on me. Heat will kill em, but otherwise they seem to be remarkably sturdy...
 
Thanks Lucy.

As far as use I am not sure where this one is going yet but its intent (my thoughts anyways) is that its not a brute force type knife, its more of a agile lighter quicker blade,
 
Well the appearance certainly supports that. Nice elegant lines. Looks like it will handle very nicely in the hand.
Good show.
 
If you're really concerned about the joint, dovetail them. I think it would look cool with ebony bolsters and holly scales for a black/white look. I have a machette that thick with a basic wood slab hadle and it holds up just fine to the flexing and abuse I put it through.


-X
 
Thanks guys. I would like to do some dove tailing but gotta save that for the future. Have so many Ideas I wanna try its just ability and tools get in the way so practice and patience.

Ive got some ebony and some dark cocobolo that Ill use one or the other for the bolsters and have not decided yet on the rest of the scale selection. Without a doubt one of my biggest issues right now is the finishing process, choosing color and finishing up details.

Ill be sure to post some pics when I am finished.
 
Take a piece of 2" angle iron and set it on your workrest for your grinder, you now have a 45* jig for grinding dovetails. Its not hard, grind the joint first, and then when its good shape and fit from there. Just be sure to start with a big enough piece to allow for some learning.


-X
 
Good idea and Ill have to remember it ...... embarrassing part is I have a tool rest (kmg) that I got for my NWG however I have to adjust the length of the platen tool bar brace so that I can hook up the tool rest. Been meaning to for the last 8 months or so. Kind of taught myself to grind without it so the drive to put it on isnt what it use to be.

Need to though so I can do some hollow grinds.


EDIT, just realized I can use my 12in disk grinder to do what your talking about (or adjust the table on it). Got it thats what Ill do.
 
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