Things I Used To Believe (before I learned better)

I can hold it tight enough to drill just one hole - See threads with graphic photos of "the whirling blade of death"

1084 is a beginners steel - True....but most people only quote part of the advice given by experienced smiths, "1084 makes a great knife. The HT is fairly easy with limited equipment. It is a good beginners steel...and a great expert steel.

Knifemakers keep their hard learned methods secret - Read Bladeforums
 
Just curious, why would you wear gloves at a drill press anyways?

Dang good question.

[video=youtube;B4xEa57DSlA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4xEa57DSlA[/video]

Knifemakers keep their hard learned methods secret - Read Bladeforums
Soooooo true... a great deal of what I do know about knifemaking and metallurgy was given freely right here. Thanks guys!
 
Just curious, why would you wear gloves at a drill press anyways?

It's a personal choice. When I work on items that can't be clamped down (handle blocks, guards, etc), I prefer having something between me and the workpiece. I find I hold the piece more securely when I have the right gloves on. With the gloves on the work piece NEVER spins out of control. The drill bit will stop instead. Bear in mind I have a small/weak drill press, not one of the freeestanding behemoths you guys probably use.

Blades always get clamped down, so it's much less of an issue on those.
 
I don't get it guys! I always wore welding gloves when I was grinding and I never had any problems!! I know tools like a drill bit or lathe or table saw can grab a glove and mess your hand up big time but I just don't see the problem with a belt grinder.
 
There is no such thing as something that "can't be clamped down". There is no such thing as a workpiece that can't turn on you and bite a chunk of your damn face off. Sure, many lucky makers and various industrial workers have worn gloves while grinding/drilling etc. for decades without getting hurt. But many are missing important chunks of their bodies.

Many, many more folks have driven completely drunk without killing anyone, too. That doesn't make it right or smart.

Play long odds on Powerball, not in the shop.
 
I'm afraid we'll just have to agree to disagree, James.

Actually, no, Greg, I don't have to "agree to disagree". You're flat wrong, and you're giving unsafe advice. I like you and I certainly don't mean to derail your otherwise interesting and worthwhile thread, but I take serious issue with that.
 
I'm afraid we'll just have to agree to disagree, James.


At least install a bolt on the table for the material rest up against so it can not spin while you are holding it while drilling. Better safe then sorry
 
I used to subscribe to the belief that damascus steel was indestructable and could be so sharp it would cut anything that touched it. This is a myth that I come across almost daily in talking to non knife people.
 
Used motor oil is the best quenchant out there no need to buy expensive quenching oils. Lol motor oil will get a knife hard but if you want cheap use canola oil, better results, less harmfull to your health, and smells better.

Any leaf spring will make a good knife. My second knife ever was made from a golf cart leaf spring not so good lol.

Manufacturers heat treating specs were the best for the steel. Not true at all for smaller sections like a knife maker deals with the heat treat has to be tweak some times completely different from the manufacturers specs.

You need HSS drill bits for making knives. Not true again, if you know how to drill you will be fine. The funny thing is i do not even use a drill press i use a hand drill also it is corded and still do fine. but my next purchase is a drill press lol
 
I used to think that fancy stones would make my knifes super sharp when really simple stuff will do so given, patience, good lighting and elbow space.
 
Lets leave the gloves on the drill press situation be. It is very unsafe, and will get you fired or fined in most industrial settings........enough said .

There is a difference between ROTATING machinery, like drills, lathes, mills, etc......and moving abrasive surface equipment like a sander. Gloves are often worn when using things that don't rotate.
Rotating equipment can...and will eventually.....catch a glove and wrap it around the rotating object.
Moving abrasive surfaces can abrade the glove, or move it forward, but they can't wrap it around anything. Care must always be taken when wearing gloves to avoid accidentally placing the hand on or near any part of nearby machines that rotates.

I had it explained by a very good machinist in the best way I could ask for:
"ALWAYS wear gloves when you expect your hand to contact the object or tool.
NEVER wear gloves when you would NEVER want your hand to contact the object or tool."
 
* You MUST shed blood on a blade when making it in order to baptise it. Actually, the blade doesn't care if you bleed on it or not.

I haven't posted anything in here in a dogs age, been too tied up playing with toys, and well my shop space was over run for storage during house renos:o I do want to say that I don't think i have made a knife that at some point hasn't drawn blood from me. Usually it is while I am hand sanding and never serious, but they have all been baptized in my blood:o
 
FWIW, I'm not giving advice at all. And for the sake of those that view it as such I've removed that line from the OP.
 
Moving abrasive surfaces can abrade the glove, or move it forward, but they can't wrap it around anything.

You're right in theory, but wrong in practice. That would be true if not for the fact that in most cases, especially with narrow-web belt grinders like we use, there are easily-accessible edges to these rollers and surfaces, known as pinch points. They will pull an errant fingertip into them as quick as a wink if you come at them wrong, (gloves serve only to make it more likely) and not let go until something breaks (hopefully the machine or belt/web/bearing will break before someone's booger-picker gets yanked off or skinned, but that's a very poor bet.)

Clearly, you've never seen a good friend's finger get caught between a web made of typing paper and an idler roll made of aluminum, and result in him no longer being able to "flip off" someone in traffic. This is not funny. It's very real, and very scary.

I'll leave the topic alone now. As I said earlier... they're your fingers, do what you want. But let's not be telling newbs it's OK to ignore common sense and basic shop safety... that's far beyond irresponsible. Our tools grind, cut and drill hardened steel with ease - they are not impressed by human flesh.
 
I used to believe the only way to grind on heat treated blades was bare handed. No I don't wear gloves because I subscribe to the NO gloves around rotating equipment club. But, I have discovered I have a lot more control when using my grinding magnets. I know by now how much I can grind before I start to mess up the HT and how much I will hate it if I do.

5 minute 2 ton epoxy is fine. Good glue is worth the money.

Salt water works for electric etching. Ya, but, not near as well as the right etchant

60 is real old............ I turn 61 this month and I am still young
 
James, nobody (least of all me) is asking you to leave this topic alone. If I'm wrong, I'm wrong. I'm here to learn as much as the next guy. Please feel free to stick around.
 
No offense meant or taken, Greg. I just meant that I've said all I can say about safety around power tools. I'm subscribed to the thread to learn other tips. :)
 
Very long haired lady was learning about knife making, I mentioned the danger of her long hair and she usually tied it back. Then one day she just needed to touch up a grind on a 2 x 72 belt grinder. I heard an almost tearing like sound, thuck would be the closest way to spell it (hard to describe)as a patch of her hair was ripped out of her head, caught between the grinding belt and rubber wheel. Not a lot - but enough, bald spot about the size of a dime. She was lucky and never forgot again. Her comment was that it was very quick!
 
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