Things importent to you in a bushcraft knife.

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Mar 22, 2009
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I am trying to come with a design for a custom bushcraft knife, and was wanting you alls folks opinions on certain elements of said knife.

What I want to know:
What grind? Scandi, full convex, flat?
what blade steel?
what blade shape? Ie-nessmuk, spearpoint, drop point
handle shape?
kydex or leather?
 
My Randall 14 in 01 with green micarta finger grip handle! and its badass leather sheath!
 
I mean absolutely no offense when asking this: how much experience do you already have with bushcraft blades? If the answer is 'a lot', then you probably already have well defined notions of what is useful on a blade and what isn't. If the answer is 'not a lot', then you can buy a handful of relatively inexpensive blades with varying characteristics (or just one mora) and use it a bunch. Then decide what about it sucks and what works.

Democracy is not the way to get what you want as an individual!
 
I like a bade length of 4 inches
A comfortable handle is pobablymor important than anything else
I like a scandi edge
1095, or 01 or even sandvic stainless work for me
Drop or spear point is fine
I like a leather sheath but will not scoff at a decent plastic one either.
I own a few reall beautifull expensive well made bushcraft knives, but use a mora most of all.
I find they have attibutes I like in terms of size, handle comfprt edge geometry, PRICE,
and availibility
 
I like:
Generous handle length
Hand filling slabs
Scandi or convex
O1 steel (personal preference only)
4-5" drop-point blade if non-scandi
4" if scandi
No choil or lengthy guard (on this sized blade)
Slight palm swell with a straight handle (excludes any blade that is wrapped vs slabbed)
Leather with drop loop.
 
If you want one, maybe one of these will fill the bill?

PC010183.jpg


What I like, is

Convex
1095
drop point
Handle depends
I like leather and Kydex, but Leather for custom.
 
Tough steel that's easy to field sharpen.
Straight, thick spine with sharp edges.
Indestructible handle.
Lanyard hole.
Secure sheath.

Everything else is personal preference.
 
What grind? Scandi, full convex, flat? - Flat but dont really care.
what blade steel? - 01, SS or A2
what blade shape? - Clip or Spear point
handle shape? - Round, like Randall 18's and CRK one pieces.
kydex or leather? - I prefer nylon but of those two choices definetly leather, especially if it's nice as Randall's sheaths.
 
Drop point, spear point or flat spine - no clip points please.

Between 4 and 5 inches.

Steel tough and thick enough to take some abuse but not so think that it feels like a prybar. A2 is good, Fallknivens laminated VG10 is also excellent and that has the added benefit og being corrosion resistent.

I have three Bushcraft/Field knives. F1, BRKT Aurora and Highland Special. All are excellent although I'm not the biggest fan of the thermorun handles on the F1 so I'm waiting on a custom handled micarta version. I also like wood handles for show.

I use it mainly for camp chores like fire prep and carving stuff once the fire's going.

EDIT: I have zero experience with scandi so while I would still love to give it a go, I can swear by Convex. Easiest to sharpen for numbskulls like myself.
 
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Haha thegame I know about the challenge. Also, to the last poster, how do you like the brkt aurora?
 
Haha thegame I know about the challenge. Also, to the last poster, how do you like the brkt aurora?

Well, I am not the last poster, but I have an Aurora and it is one of my favorite knives. It handles all chores well, and it has a nice, sturdy feel in the hand.
I do not dislike anything about mine, it is a good knife.
 
Haha thegame I know about the challenge. Also, to the last poster, how do you like the brkt aurora?

One of my most comfortable to hold knives I have. I've carved all night and had no discomfort. It's so good that I'm going to get one of the 3V versions when they hit KSF. Plus it's a bit of a looker which doesn't hurt. :D

spoon3.jpg


spoon5.jpg
 
I am trying to come with a design for a custom bushcraft knife, and was wanting you alls folks opinions on certain elements of said knife.

What I want to know:
What grind? Scandi, full convex, flat?
what blade steel?
what blade shape? Ie-nessmuk, spearpoint, drop point
handle shape?
kydex or leather?

For me:
convex or flat with conves second edge
carbon blade
spearpoint
straight hande with rounded edges
kydex and leather no problem with any of them
As you see a very standar "bushcraft knife"
 
Many different knife styles will work doing Bushcraft related chores.


A review of the knives in the Bushcraft Challange will show the variety of features our knifemaker's think are important.


Testing these knives has shown me how well the majority work,

...changing my views of what's required in a Bushcraft Knife. :eek:



Stay tuned for the results of the Challange. :thumbup: :cool: :thumbup:



Big Mike
 
My 'bushcraft/camping knife' choice mutated over the years. A KaBar - my Dad's from WWII - often accompanied whatever was in my pocket when I stomped as a teen. That changed from Boy Scout knives to pen knives - the fb was eventually a Western 66 hunter - a 'Green Stamps' buy from my Mom. College - USN - college - somewhere, I discovered Vic SAK's - and the Buck 110 & 301 - bases covered. Kids grown, personal life changes, etc - I discovered the Buck 192 Vanguard, almost ideal. I still took the old Plumb camp hatchet for larger camping chores. Then - I became 'enlightened'!

I went through a string of great 'bushy' knives - Marbles, Barkies, & Northwoods - that UP of MI is amazing. Puma's too - always wanted a 'White Hunter' (Why??). More Bucks, too. My last hiker used - a Buck 005GYS 'Gen5' - and it was great last summer - again - at a Gulf Coast reserve. The SS/Dymondwood combo withstood the salt breeze quite well. The last time I woods stomped, I had a basic Buck Vanguard - left lots of 'better choices' at home. It sees a lot of use in the backyard woods, too.

The theme above is simple - almost any knife you could carry would make an acceptable choice. Okay, a little Vic SAK 'Classic' is too little - my Christmas goodie - a Benchmade 171 'Chopper' - is too big. You must be comfortable in it's use - and it must be easily carried. It will do you no good in your desk drawer. Don't be afraid to use something you already have - just be well-versed in it's use. A Buck 110 is a great choice, for example, and easily carried - pocket, belt sheath, or pack. Good luck!

Stainz
 
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