Things importent to you in a bushcraft knife.

Hi NC527,

I am sure you going to get a lot of great answers from this thread, and lots of good opinions. In fact, it looks like you already have that :)

The only issue is that it is going to come back to what you want. The problem with the word "Bushcraft" is that it means something different to everyone.

Some folks use it to mean expertise in self reliance. Processing wood, making fires, building shelter, etc. A lot of this generally means working with dry and already seasoned wood. In my area, that generally means using hardwoods too.

To other folks, bushcraft is dealing with green wood. Peeling barking, making tools out of green wood, carving green wood, bark baskets, weaving materials, natural cordage and other finer tasks.

IMO, both those definitions drives a different type of knife, and definitely a different type of grind. And that is just two examples!

Find what tasks you really plan to do in your "Bushcraft" and tailor your knife towards that. Just my opinion :D

Good luck,
B
 
Brian Andrews said:
Hi NC527,

I am sure you going to get a lot of great answers from this thread, and lots of good opinions. In fact, it looks like you already have that :)

The only issue is that it is going to come back to what you want. The problem with the word "Bushcraft" is that it means something different to everyone.

Some folks use it to mean expertise in self reliance. Processing wood, making fires, building shelter, etc. A lot of this generally means working with dry and already seasoned wood. In my area, that generally means using hardwoods too.

To other folks, bushcraft is dealing with green wood. Peeling barking, making tools out of green wood, carving green wood, bark baskets, weaving materials, natural cordage and other finer tasks.

IMO, both those definitions drives a different type of knife, and definitely a different type of grind. And that is just two examples!

Find what tasks you really plan to do in your "Bushcraft" and tailor your knife towards that. Just my opinion :D

Good luck,
B
Click to expand...

Thanks Brian. I guess around here, we have a mix of hard and softwoods in eastern NC. Im really just looking for a knife that I can go out and practice making different "bushcraft" things like spoons, handdrill sets, stuff like that.
The whole "self reliance" thing isnt AS importent, I go on around 10 camping trips a year.

In your opinion, which is easier to slice seasoned hardwood with, scandi, or convex?
 
There is no wrong answer if it works for you...

This is what I like...

> High carbon (no A2 or D2) ~ easy to sharpen and will spark for flint/steel
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsyBoqakK74

> Point is in line with center of handle. Makes it easier to use as a drill and gives you a better idea of where the point is without looking (in the dark), etc.

> Full and tapered handle. Taper going both front and back to prevent slipping. Handle is rounded and fills hand to prevent hotspots during prolonged use.

> No gaurd as they can get in the way. Tapered handle provides the safety.

> Scandi grind is easy to sharpen, plus when you choke up on the knife and hold the blade, that big bevel makes it easier to hold on to.

> Squared spine for flint/steel and ferro rod use.

Pretty much a Mora. Hard to improve on simplisity and something that has been used EVERYDAY for tens of generations.
 
I like traditional Scandinavian puukko style knives.

Carbon steel -- I seem to just be able to get these sharper than stainless

3.25-4" blade.

Due to the ravages of time and injuries, I have poor feeling ion may hands, and so I like full size grips on even smaller blades. The "barrel" shaped handle works best for me, especially since I tend to wear gloves all the time. It also fixes itself in my hand, keeping my hand from slipping forward or backward.

Starting out as a zero edge scandi was great, but with hand sharpening, it turns into a very shallow convex grind.

Great example is this Jarvenpoaa Aito from Ragweed Forge.

1244-bark.jpg
 
4'' blade - scandi with no secondary edge
Carbon steel - better if forged
Straight back puukko shape
Barrel shaped handle
Leather sheath with a dangler loop

Essentially a good puukko :)
 
Important to me our:

1) Overall knife design.
2) Good steel. I prefer stainless (S30V, VG10, S90V, 154CM) but also like good carbon steels such as Infini and SR101.
3) Good ergonomics. Must be able to use the knife for a long period of time with comfort.
4) I prefer a drop point blade.
5) Handle material. I like several different materials, but desert ironwood is my favorite.
6) Sheath. Either leather or Kydex works if it is good quality. I prefer leather.
 
things important to me in a bushcraft knife:

- NUKEPROOF ((needs to be reliable and NOT fail in the field)

- easy to sharpen

- must chop well

- must make fine shavings well

- must have a comfortable handle

- length must be between 6" - 20" preferably on the LONG side rather than a dinky little knife

- 1/4" thick spine

- full sized handle

- Choil

- scandi or convex
 
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