Things that are no longer important to you in a purchase

I used to only really consider knives with blades over 3", now I only really consider knives with blades under 3".
 
Leo3an said:
Dont want to derail. But why is 440A bad and why is Rough Rider slip join exception? I’m asking as someone new to this, i dont know much about steel. Not trying to start something by asking. Not trying to support whatever anyone here is against. Just curious.
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440A has about the same edge retention as 420hc, but has less corrosion resistance, this can change depending on the ht. Some, if not all manufacturers that use 440a just describe the blade steel as 440 on the packaging. If it was 440c, which is the big daddy of the 440 series, manufacturers would list it on their products. When it comes to 440a they aren’t as open about it, so that should tell us something about the steels quality.
 
Rough Rider does a good job with 440A. Many prefer it over the Tru Sharp (420HC) that Case uses because Case runs it rather soft. The 440A that RR uses is more than acceptable for the very low cost and consistent good fit and finish they offer.
 
In a folder - multi position clip positions. Having that flexibility has been nice in concept, but never used personally. Much prefer a clean show side these days.

In a fixed blade - extra length to baton and high carbon to spark a flint. PM stainless in the 4" range these days with my camp knife and much happier on the trail.

Overall - the brand (aka what the cool kids carry). Much more focused on the materials and craftsmanship vs the name of the maker. Makes me continue to look at new offerings and reconsider prior decisions, which I enjoy as part of the hobby.
 
Things No longer important to me are
The knife's utility to me, I enjoy knives I'll never be able to put to their intended use
Important to me are
That I always buy a knife with the mindset that it's a tool, and as such should be built to do the job intended. Classic knives are classic because they endure time.
 
Yo Mama said:
We have had threads on what you look for in a blade, this is not that thread. This is a thread about what used to be important to you that are no longer a focus in deciding what you're going to buy?

For me, steel type is no longer a deal breaker. I'll forgive not having the latest and greatest steel if the grind and design fit me. I'd rather "lower" steel with a better heat treat any day.

Lock type is also no biggie anymore for me. I used to obsess about this lock or that lock, now I've seen all kinds of locks. So as long as it's well build and works, that's fine with me.
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I tend to agree with you about steel and locks. The proper manufacturing, heat treating and grind are more important that having the lastest and greatest steel. Same with locks. If it is made well and works any lock will do as long as it works for the particular knife design. Sheaths no longer have to be the lastest and greatest either. I have found that a plain pouch style sheath works best for me on most single or no guard knives. Quality leather and good workmanship is what counts.counts. In addition, country of origin doesn't mean much anymore either. China is the exception. I have had 4 experiences with Mainland Chinese vendors and every one of them went South . Piss poor steel, poor design, dishonest vendors. I've been bitten 4 times. That's all the chances they get with me. Taiwan, on the other hand makes fine knives. I own about a half dozen knives made in Taiwan and they are all quality pieces. I own knives from all over the world and have found good ones from a lot of different countries. All things being equal, the USA still gets preference but I won't rule a knife out because of it's country of origin. Well that's my 2 cents on the subject.
 
I feel like I figured out what I like, I gave a BUNCH of my knifes to my sons (I'm not a collector, when I replace my edc's, I toss them in their original box and in the junk drawer) and it made me think, I went through phases of knives BUT NEVER backwards, if I stopped carrying a knife in trade for another I obviously stepped up to the new knife, sometimes I kept it, sometimes I went back, but that was done within a weeks time at most, and NOT too often.

So I would say its not so much what isn't important to me any longer but what I replaced with something I liked better. For the first time since I started EDC'ing I am confident that when my 0350 is worn out and or destroyed, I will be looking for another identical knife, I HONESTLY can't pick a flaw out, if anything I could change I would trade the "higher" grade s30v for a really well done AUS8 (I love aus8, It holds and edge and I can sharpen it in 5 minutes), but I like the big belly and long blade stroke of it, the feel, the weight, to me I found my perfect knife, and I'm just lucky its only a $140 model and not something super expensive...
 
No longer important -
Blade steel - to a point. Edge retention is far from the most important thing to me now.
smoothness of opening(to a point)
Bearings - Most of my folders have bearings. I'd rather have washers now.
Only large fixed blades - I now understand the value of a small fixed blade. I used to think a folder could take care of any role for a blade under 4.5 inches.
 
Ive drop a few standards that I use to follow. 1) Folders with a blade length no less than 3.5 inches. 2) blade stock has to be thick. 3) no carbon fiber
These rules no longer apply when deciding on purchases.
 
Leo3an said:
Dont want to derail. But why is 440A bad and why is Rough Rider slip join exception? I’m asking as someone new to this, i dont know much about steel. Not trying to start something by asking. Not trying to support whatever anyone here is against. Just curious.
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As mentioned, Rough Rider slip joints are generally very well made for the price. I might go as far as extremely well made for the price. If only Case or Queen could compete? They wish. The steel is comparable to 420HC which is common in slip joints along with 1095. I don't expect a Rough Rider slip joint to hold an edge like a higher end steel... it's more about the total knife package relative to the price with Rough Riders.
 
I wouldn't say I have any standards or rules that have dropped by the wayside. I think I am becoming much more selective. The collecting bug bit late in my life so I am just coming out of the "tenderfoot" stage if you want to call it that. Where before I might buy several knives a month, grabbing often on impulse, I'm trying to become more selective. Having a small collection now of 80 + knives, there is less drive to establish the collection in the first place. I'm shifting more towards buy 1 great one a month rather than 3-5 really good ones.
Part of that is also due to a willingness to spend more $ for a knife. My limit used to be around $50.00. That has gone up to the $200 + range now, but the income hasn't changed so pure economics rules the day. :cool:
 
I really don’t care much what Steel a knife has as long as I like the design and the price is right.
Even though I have a good variety of “super steels” I have found merit in less expensive steels too.

Warranty is something I no longer care about either.
Luckily my favorite knives have good warranties but I’ve never used them and on knives without that protection, like most of my older slippies, I will fix it myself or if it’s major and I love the knife I will send it to a pro.
 
Warranty doesn't matter to me anymore as most knives I buy are from American companies and I'm as far away from America as anyone can get, so it's unlikely any of the warranties will apply to me, anyway. I don't even know what I'll do if someday I have to send my Benchmade over for 'Omega spring' replacement.

Also, while I used to really dislike tip-down carry, it doesn't matter to me anymore. What's important instead is that I can re-position the clip four ways so I can change how I carry it to suit different situations.
 
The factors I don't care much about shift a bit depending on context, but in general I don't get too hung up about:

•Specific blade steel. I care about the steel being an appropriate choice for the knife's application, but not really beyond that.
•Country of origin. A good knife is a good knife.
•Full tangs. I just want a tang on a fixed blade to be properly built, and if anything prefer hidden tapered tangs where appropriate because the reality is they're more than strong enough for even the hardest use if built right and make for a lighter tool.
•Lock type/strength. I'm mindful of the lock type and strength when selecting a knife for certain tasks, but only to make sure that the lock is strong enough to handle any strain put on it and the type of lock is compatible with its intended context of use (like it's not going to be clumsy compared to some other kind that would be more appropriate for that setting.) But I generally don't care if you can do pullups off the handle of your folding knife because that's not a thing that will be done with my knives so it's just excessive. Many of my most frequently used knives are slipjoints.
•Factory edge. It's almost always too thick and I just end up grinding it thinner before carry.
•Ornamentation of any kind. I appreciate good aesthetics, but only if they don't interfere with function. As such, the bling factor plays almost no role in my decision making process, and if anything I tend to avoid heavily ornamented knives because they so frequently sacrifice function for flash.
 
I'm pretty much over:

1. "Pry bar" folders. It's a silly concept if you really think about it. You carry a knife (meant for slicing things) that generally does a poor job of slicing things.

2. Frame locks. It's not a fixed blade, no matter how many times you say "bank vault". If you pry with it hard enough, you WILL wreck it.

3. High tech/new age stainless. We have taken "hard to sharpen" to a new level. And even at best, they don't compare well to high carbon steels.
 
Price.

I used to hum and haw about spending $100 on a knife, then have major buyers remorse afterwards.

Nowadays I look at a $3,000 Knife and think, “I guess I’ll have to sell another one to scientific experimentation.”

Bonus points for getting the reference.
 
I wouldn't buy heavy duty folders like ZT, even though I work in the field in construction. I started in the early 70s in the trades and always carried a CASE stockman, or a large copperhead. Good enough for the generations of blue collar folks before me, so good enough for me. And hell, I ain't no mall ninja wannabe. Carried a Browning folding hunter for a while, but felt like a rube with the belt sheath even though all my compatriots carried their Buck 110s proudly for all to see.

Bought an affordable, medium sized Gerber with a pocket clip as I thought Gerber was a pretty good brand based on my own experience and I wanted to try the pocket clip. The knife was a certifiable POS. But the pocket clip was ideal. Bought a couple of large Kershaws, a RAT, and now a couple of ZTs that are in rotation for work. I love the utility of a bigger knife that I can use with no cares on the job, and I like that only a 1/2 inch or so shows above my pocket when I am carrying it. Really, no one notices it. Like G10 (and not so much FRN) as I can wash the knife with charcoal lighter fluid to get off tar, enamel, butyl sealants, etc. and not care. Couple of spritzes of a light oil and it is ready for work again. Like S35vn in the ZTs, too!

And I don't feel like some farm rube or tactical wannabe crying for attentino when I carry them as no one knows I have them unless they work with me since they are mostly hidden in my pocket.

Robert
 
To echo many of the above, I'm over tank built folders. Though arguably the coolest of cutlery, they usually do not slice and are too big for the pocket. Also not too hung up on blade shape, as long as it is not a recurve.

I have also gotten over the chopper bug. I have 3, but will never use them. They are too heavy to tote, and reading has convinced me the saw/hatchet combination is the thing for wood processing - opinions vary. (Although, I wouldn't mind finding a Busse sword by the road.)
 
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