Things to AVOID in folders and fixed blades

Definitely figure out whether you want to look at your knives or use your knives.
If you want “lookers” aka art knives...buy whatever you like! Tons of options...literally thousands.
If you want a great in the pocket knife to use...have fun trying them out, its a heck of a fun ride!!
If you want a looker user...best be ready to open your wallet. Haha.
I say to all the new guys/gals...Enjoy the journey...its a great one!

Its hard to appreciate a great knife, until you have owned terrible ones. ;)
 
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I would say handle as many knives as you can, find a local store like even big 5 or cabelas and handle them. Flip the action, see if you prefer thumbstuds, flippers, spydieholes, traditionals, etc.

Also know that your preferences may change over time as your knowledge and expertise grows. Thumbs get callous and stronger too.

Lastly, my biggest mistake was buying knife shapes for cool factor and now realizing how useless they really are. For example I generally avoid recurve blades now because sharpening is generally harder and they just aren't god users imo.
 
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This is a very subjective thing, no? Off the top of my head my list of things to generally avoid would look like (full disclosure, I enjoy buying and using knives but I'm not a collector, really):

  • Thick blades on anything but axes and other chopping implements--4mm thick is about 2mm too thick for 99.9% of all things you'd use a pocket knife for
  • Full tangs on small knives that aren't choppers
  • Heavy knives
  • Finger choils on anything but tiny folders where they can provide a full grip on a tiny knife
  • Frame locks and compression locks on folders, because I've realized that despite owning many of them they're my least favorite lock mechanisms
  • Custom screws (e.g. the triangles, dot patterns, SPOT see through garbage, etc.), the stupidest fashion statement idiocy ever added to a folding knife
  • Anything made by that low life dirt bag piece of human refuse, Mick Strider

In short, I disagree with everything Evilgreg suggested here, with the exception of Mick Strider. But, that is what makes knives so interesting, the choices are highly personal and we are fortunate to enjoy a rich and broad market.

I would suggest that the beginner avoid overly complexed knives, with lots of angles, cutouts, sawbacks, serrations, complexed hilts, striking pommels, etc. While all of these features can be part of excellent knives, they are common distractions on junk knives. Ultimately, what most people find attractive are ergonomic knives that carry well and have good clean lines. The basics have to be there. The knife has to feel comfortable in hand and the blade must be able to cut. Knives with hotspots, awkward protrusions or materials that hurt the hand ultimately are viewed as ugly, although you may not be able to appreciate that as a beginner.

Always remember that these are tools; art must yield to function.

N2s
 
folks generally end up buying stuff
because they are mesmerize or drawn to it.
i term it as an inanimated object's charm.
it is as if it has the power to "speak to you"
much like your inner voice. or conscience.
only that being smitten by the charms of a
"siren" knife may sometimes bring regret :)
but those lucky enough to escape repeated mistakes, will out grow the calls of just
fancy and stick to a set of buying rules.
simple things like having a budget, intel-gathering product reviews, learning to control impulse buying , etc.
if there are no preconditions to guide
spending, then i guess one will eventuslly
learn the hard way.
the habit of splurging is a
wonderful act of momentary
madness for those who can afford to :)
the bottomline is that most regret purchasing something because
it cost us a certain amount of money
which did not meet or had failed to bring
in the assumed material value or returns.
do feel free to browse the goods but buy
only when there is a genuine need for it.
don't feed id!
 
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The knife has to feel comfortable in hand and the blade must be able to cut. Knives with hotspots, awkward protrusions or materials that hurt the hand ultimately are viewed as ugly, although you may not be able to appreciate that as a beginner.

Always remember that these are tools; art must yield to function.

N2s
I agree with your comment about ergonomics and hotspots. As a guy with large-ish hands, my mittens tend to be picky with smaller knives. I can carry an Izula just fine, but I would prefer something I can wrap all five digits around. Personally, handles designed by Andrew Demko are just fine for me.
 
In short, I disagree with everything Evilgreg suggested here, with the exception of Mick Strider. But, that is what makes knives so interesting, the choices are highly personal and we are fortunate to enjoy a rich and broad market.

I would suggest that the beginner avoid overly complexed knives, with lots of angles, cutouts, sawbacks, serrations, complexed hilts, striking pommels, etc. While all of these features can be part of excellent knives, they are common distractions on junk knives. Ultimately, what most people find attractive are ergonomic knives that carry well and have good clean lines. The basics have to be there. The knife has to feel comfortable in hand and the blade must be able to cut. Knives with hotspots, awkward protrusions or materials that hurt the hand ultimately are viewed as ugly, although you may not be able to appreciate that as a beginner.

Always remember that these are tools; art must yield to function.

N2s

I can't believe you prefer custom screws . . .
 
I can't believe you prefer custom screws . . .

I don't prefer them but I understand why some makers are trying to limit their customer's ability to take down the knives and besides, it's art, and provides something other than the usual t-6, t-8 screw head to look at.

n2s
 
Pretty damn sure most of us here have more than one siren knife, hehehe

Sound advice, the sirens were the ones who sang and sailors crashed on the rocks. Have a budget, or give some serious thought before the collection grows too big, maybe set a rule to sell or give away two for every new one you want to buy. It forces you to examine why you like a knife and maybe the reasons you bought it. There are many knives I bought because I thought it could meet a need or purpose, only to realize the ones bought earlier already meet those needs or purposes. Also use what you buy, practice sharpening, etc and gain experience with use, another fun part of the hobby. If it is too good to be true it usually is, stay away from marketing hype. Lastly, how are you going to store them and care for them? Most of all, have fun, trade, sell, and meet some really cool and nice people.
 
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Hey, one more thought, if you are practicing social distancing, do some internet surfing and exploring of knife sites and makers' sites for future reference. I found a few sites that I did know had existed. There were links on some of my favorite makers.
 
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The Extreme Basics of Blade Steel Markings:

1. Avoid knives with unmarked blades. If the maker doesn’t think enough of their product to mark it,
chances are it is poor quality.

2. The type of steel should be stamped on the blade. If not, it should be printed on the knife box or available on the manufacturer’s web site.

3. Markings stating “Surgical Steel” or “Stainless Steel” are not proper blade steel markings. Knives marked as such should normally be avoided. The same holds true for knives just marked “440” or “440 Stainless.”

4. Blades marked “440 A” should also be avoided unless it from a select few, well known manufacturers with a proven heat treatment and outstanding reputation.
 
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I will not repeat what others have said. Here is what I would like to add:

Stay away from folders with vertical blade play. This is generally not an issue that the end user can fix and manufacturers may or may not fix for you as it most likely requires to replace the lockside or the blade.

Stay away from folders with detent rock unless it does not bother you. Likewise as above, it is usually not an issue that can be tweaked away easily.
 
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