Think about it...the serrations BELONG on the FRONT part of the blade.

What started all this is the Victorinox One Hand Trekker that I just got to replace my old one that I "plain edged."

The OHT has the serrations at the front. It will STAB anything as it is extremely sharp at the tip.

BUT.....I agree that there is a need for plain edge for hunting. Which means ya gotta have ANOTHER knife. However for the everyday use, this OHT just does fine. I'm amazed it took me so long to figure out that Victorinox might have done some RESEARCH or TESTING.

The OHT is NOT a pry-em, whack em, chunk em knife. But when everyone is looking for a baton to make their plain edge into a real chopper, I can just use the ......saw. :D
 
I also agree that the main reason it isn't done on more blades is because innately we DO think of knives as ...stabbers.
What sells is what we get.
:)
 
I agree. I would much prefer to see the serrations on the tip-end of the blade. Makes perfect sense to me for EDC.
 
This is how my FIRST One Hand TRAILMASTER looked.
toothy0sr.jpg


The new TREKKER I got is .....FAR.....more aggressive and deeper serrations.
 
When I first read the title of your thread I though you were quoting me :) I've said the same thing many times. Then I read the post and decided that you have it all wrong, this is a dumb and dangerous thing to do on an SAK. On a self defense or combat knife this makes a lot of sense. The belly of the blade is the best location for slashing action. That just isn't the action you get into with an SAK.

One of the most dangerous things you can have on a knife is a blade that cuts differently along different sections of the blade. Typically you use the bottom section of the blade more than other sections and it gets dull. Then you go to cut something kind of tough like rope, cardboard or plastic and you start trying to cut with your favorite (now dull) blade section. You start applying high pressure to get the thing to cut and you start sliding the blade through the cut to get some help from slicing action, when suddenly you hit a sharp section and the blade whips through the material out of control and cuts you. I can see the exact same scenario with the Trailmaster blade, only worse.

The obvious solution for an SAK is to have two knife blades. One is serrated one is nonserrated. Make the serrated blade the longer one so that you can take advantage of sawing/slicing action. Make the plain edge shorther and thinner for optimal whittling and shaving action.
 
Well yeah, but .....WHO..... ever lets a knife get ....DULL?
ANYWHERE on its blade?
FIE! Banish them!

And it is not "wrong." It is VERY RIGHT.....FOR ME!

:D
 
I can see some danger if someone were to be cutting, oh say...rope. In their ...LAP!

But for those who can take the time to see where a blade...MIGHT...go if it went through what they were cutting, I think it's perfectly safe.

It sure makes a supreme salami slicer.

And that thin SAK blade .....WITH CHISEL EDGE....is so easy to sharpen that it almost would just be divine justice if they DO cut themselves due to lack of sharpening.

:D :eek: :thumbup:
 
I was going to start a thread on the same thing! For many of the reasons posted above I agree that serrations on the front part of the blade make more sense than on the back. The main one being that many of the things I want serrations for are hard to reach with the back part of the blade. For example sliding the blade under plastic ties, (or anything for that matter): it is easier to just get the tip under and cut.

As for cutting through rope or webbing using the whole blade, it seems like it would be easier to start the cut with the plain part, and finish with the serrations. For this, having the palin edge towards the back would be better. I find that when starting the cut with the serrations, the teeth often catch in the fibers. Starting with the plain part would let the blade get up enough speed not to catch. - Just a thought.

Will
 
Oh my sweet Lord! Finally, the SENSIBLE MINORITY are finally coming out at last!
I've also posted my thoughts on this on other forums as well for years too.

You take away much of the knife's cutting efficiency by dedicating the area of greatest control or leverage to cutting rough or uneven-shaped materials (e.g. - rope) only. Can you really cut rope tied around docking poles more efficiently if the serrations were in the back??

My take on a general purpose knife is having a short straight edge up front (probably an inch) for initial or entry cut and then having the serrations at the belly portion and then terminating again with a straight edge near the choil.

Great minds really do think alike!
 
untamed said:
My take on a general purpose knife is having a short straight edge up front (probably an inch) for initial or entry cut and then having the serrations at the belly portion and then terminating again with a straight edge near the choil.

Great minds really do think alike!
Click to expand...

The first few serrations on my OH Trekker were getting shallow from sharpening so I took them right off a few months ago. This is what I have now.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=45955
 
This is why I'd just carry two. Come on a Spydie Dragonfly in SE has more edge than a CE Military or such and it's VERY light
 
SIFU1A said:
in the middle? isnt that hard to sharpen?? sharpen 1 PE part, then the other, then the serrations?? i just cant picture that.
Click to expand...
With a Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker there's no problem, just sharpen it like an ordinary combo edge.
 
I like the idea of front serrations though I usually use a plain or semi-serrated at the back . Serrations are used in sawing . If you saw too far near the front you may have the point dig in or push away what you are cutting . Not a real biggie . It could cause an issue in some situations .
 
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