Think I found my next pistol, S&W 586!

foxx

foxx

Joined
Sep 5, 2010
Messages
2,690
Today I found a used S&W 586 4" made in the 80's. It's got the firing pin on the hammer, no lock, and wood grips. The cylinder is tight, trigger is very smooth, I didn't fire it, yet. Tomorrow, I may go buy this gun, but wanted some opinions.
I've been looking at either a Ruger GP-100 or the S&W 686, both in the 4". At best, new I'd be spending $513 for the Ruger, more for the S&W. I have been reading some opinions here on the BF, and many say to get a used S&W, older, non-locking, and with the firing pin on the hammer.
So, this gun I found has one flaw, the blue finish has been removed, and not with attention to detail. The good thing is, the price, they are asking $275!
For my purposes, backpacking, camping, shooting in the woods, and tossing it in the glove compartment, I don't think I'd be too worried about it's looks. I could do a cold blue on it now, just to keep it from rusting so bad. Later, I could do a better finish if I want to. But, for getting my first .357 I'd be in it cheap, and have a better performing gun than anything else at that price, new.
Any insight or cautions I should consider. I am going to ask to fire the gun before I lay down the cash, I have some .38 specials that I can take with me.
Lay it on me, am I being stupid, or will the lack of a finish be a regret?

PS. I see it like buying a used car, I won't be so concerned about the paint job if you know what I mean. If I spent 2x as much on a new S&W, I might worry about it's beauty and resale value too much to take it out as much.
 
Well you can always get it re blued for not too much money and it sounds like a good price for a good gun... but what exactly does this have to do with knives? Lol
 
Buy it. I have a Mossberg 12guage rifled barrel I purchased for $150 and never regretted it. I bought this to leave behind the seat of the ranch truck. It has wear marks, gouges in the stock and rust in spots but it just adds character. I wipe it down once a year with oil and stick it back behind the seat until needed. If this revolver shoots straight then it is worth the $ and you are more likely to take it with you as you won't worry about it being rained on, laid on the ground or stolen out of the car.
 
texassteel25 said:
Well you can always get it re blued for not too much money and it sounds like a good price for a good gun... but what exactly does this have to do with knives? Lol
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I simply value the opinions of this forum, knives or not.
 
I used to sell guns legally in the 1980's--

the 586 and 686 (stainless) are EXCELLENT .357 Magnums

Get that one
 
Smith & Wesson issued a recall on all the early L-frame revolvers. This included the 586 no dash and 586-1. (Also 581, 681, and 686 no dash and -1 models.) Some (not all) of the early L-frame revolvers had problems firing full power magnum ammunition. If the recall modification was done, there will be the letter "M" stamped in the yoke cut in the frame next to or near the model number.

Aside from the finish being removed, if the revolver is in sound working order, you could have it re-blued and still have less in it than what the going price is for a used one.
 
Just found this on wiki "The early models of the 586 (no dash and the early -1 versions) were subject of a factory recall to change the hammer/firing pin due to problems with primer flow that prevented the cylinder from rotating (this occurred rarely and only with magnum loads). If the yoke is marked with an "M" over the model number the gun has had the factory recall modifications made" they have a reputation for being very well made however so would not worry about to much just keep it in mind o that's a great price BTW
 
Thanks for the info so far. Very good to know about the recall. Say it doesn't have the "M", would I be able to have the mod done by S&W today, or should I take it to a gun smith?
 
foxx said:
Thanks for the info so far. Very good to know about the recall. Say it doesn't have the "M", would I be able to have the mod done by S&W today, or should I take it to a gun smith?
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It was a factory recall. The work was usually done either at the factory or at an authorized warranty station. It involves some specialized tools. That's not to say a decent gunsmith couldn't do it. I'm an S&W revolver armorer, and I did the modification on my department's 686s (years ago) after S&W shipped me the parts and necessary tools. Parts replaced were the hammer nose (S&W's name for the firing pin), hammer nose spring, hammer nose rivet, and hammer nose bushing in the frame. The hammer nose bushing is staked in the frame, and requires a special tool to do that.
 
Alumahyde II would be a good reasonable alternative to a cold blue-fantastic tough finish that sprays on, and practical for a utility firearm.
 
Well, I pulled the trigger on the 586, even though I haven't literally pulled the trigger. It set me back $291.50 after tax and here's some pics...
It is a 586(no dash) and there is no (M) mark inside the yolk, so the recall mod has not been done. Sooner or later I could see this weapon getting a duracoat or maybe re-blued, and the mod done, and maybe even some new grips. A holster and belt might be in order as well. Always more money to be spent.
IMG_0233.jpg

IMG_0232.jpg
 
I'll give you $300 for that firearm if you ever want to get rid of it:D Nice score, I say leave the finish be and make it a user.
 
I would contact S&W, get the recall done (their lifetime warranty applies even when you're not the original buyer) and talk with them about the possibility of getting it refinished. Given the condition of the metal surface, it's not going to be returned to a polished blue, but I've seen several that have been factory bead blasted and matte blued. Remember, bluing (and browning before it) are finishes which were created to PROTECT the steel from corrosives, and this was a functional concern, more than cosmetic. Revolvers are complicated mechanisms built with precision, and only can deliver on their nearly 100% dependability reputation when tolerances are tight. I just do not like how that surface looks--holster wear doesn't remove finish in the flutes of the cylinder. Some idiot who didn't know what he was doing took tools to that Smith, and I wouldn't depend on it until somebody competent gets inside of it and checks the whole thing over. Smith's customer service is excellent, in my experience; I very much recommend you make use of it in this case. Even if you can't swing the refinish cost at this point, let them verify it mechanically, and then bathe the thing in oil.
 
Very nice buy. I bought a used 586 about five years ago. That particular model had not been modified under the recall either. Smith did it free of charge. I just had to pay shipping. You have yourself a fine revolver there. I would re-blue if it were mine. It’s not too difficult of a task. I love a deep blue with walnut but that’s just me. Congrats on your new Maggie and enjoy.
 
trevytrev said:
I'll give you $300 for that firearm if you ever want to get rid of it:D Nice score, I say leave the finish be and make it a user.
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I'll keep that in mind, but I've wanted a .357 for a while, and plan on keeping it.
 
t1mpani said:
I would contact S&W, get the recall done (their lifetime warranty applies even when you're not the original buyer) and talk with them about the possibility of getting it refinished. Given the condition of the metal surface, it's not going to be returned to a polished blue, but I've seen several that have been factory bead blasted and matte blued. Remember, bluing (and browning before it) are finishes which were created to PROTECT the steel from corrosives, and this was a functional concern, more than cosmetic. Revolvers are complicated mechanisms built with precision, and only can deliver on their nearly 100% dependability reputation when tolerances are tight. I just do not like how that surface looks--holster wear doesn't remove finish in the flutes of the cylinder. Some idiot who didn't know what he was doing took tools to that Smith, and I wouldn't depend on it until somebody competent gets inside of it and checks the whole thing over. Smith's customer service is excellent, in my experience; I very much recommend you make use of it in this case. Even if you can't swing the refinish cost at this point, let them verify it mechanically, and then bathe the thing in oil.
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I agree fully. I want a reliable, safe gun. Looks are less important, but rust is a concern. Luckily, the idiot that stripped it did a 1/2 a$$ job. He didn't even take the gun apart, just removed the grips. The crane, cylinder release, sights, and inside the trigger guard still have the original finish around them. I just hope that the stupidity stayed ouside the gun.
I can't really complain about the stripping, that's why I got it so cheap. It was going to be a while before I got a S&W .357 otherwise.
 
Nice score. Clean it, shoot it and keep it oiled while you're contacting S & W for recall information

Blued guns are over-rated..I mean OK but I'm happy with SS and parkerized..don't mind maintaining blued guns.

For grins, you might try using some Happich Simichrome [German polish found in good motorcycle shops] to even out the home strip job..would still need to keep it oiled.. I've used on my SS revolvers for years. I can multi-task - watch TV..polish guns/use laptop while chewing on a toothpick.
 
I'm not saying it was a bad buy, just advocating letting the pros make sure that it's ready to rock. Have fun with it! :)
 
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