Think my 21 pivot needs loctite

P

Peakbagger46

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Had my large 21 for a few months now and the “set it and forgot it” method on the pivot screw doesn’t seem so foolproof. After a week or so of use I end up having to tighten it back down. Think it’s time for a little dab of loctite.

Anyone here use loctite on their 21, or is this practice heresy?
 
I've never had to use thread locker on any of my Chris Reeve Folders, but I tighten them up and don't back off at all to reduce resistance or easy use.

It's fine to use Blue (temporary) thread locker agents (loctite vibratite, etc.) if you're clean about it (don't overuse and make a mess to clean up) and let it set before use. Dissassembly in the future will be a bit more inconvenient as you should clean previously loctite'd surfaces before reassembly. No biggie, but NEVER use Red (heat required to disassemble).
 
You should not need Loctite. Something is causing this problem-you are leaving the pivot screw backed off? someone fooled with the pivot? Be sure to check the frame screws for tightness also. If none of the above apply call CRK. It may need to go in.
 
It seems to be a 50/50 shot as to whether you’ll ever have a pivot back out or not with use. I’ve had this happen with a couple of my Sebenza’s... I just put a small dab of blue loctite on the pivot and snug the it back down. Nothing crazy, but a bit snug. Of the ones I have done this to, they haven’t backed back, but I wouldn’t expect them to either...
 
Mine will back out slightly after every few months. I just tighten them right back down. They have never backed out enough to cause any kind of problem. Loctite would fix the problem but I usually always have tools around me.
 
I took the middle road and just applied a bit of Teflon tape to the male end of the screw. I bet that will do the trick.
 
Yeaaahhh I’ve had that problem with my large tanto and cf Insingo too. Frustrating and I’m checking them more often than I’d like to.
 
I have owned a couple hundred Sebenzas and have never had to use loctite on any of the screws. I have never had any loosen up during use or routine carry either......I have however bought new 21’s and the screws were loose ( very loose ) on some from the factory/dealer. I just snug them up and that’s it. I have read about this though now and then, so your not alone.
 
Just make sure the grease isn't oozing out and getting on the threads. Ive found out that using too much grease is not a good thing. I've never used the loctite on any of my CRK's, even the ones that come with it.
The screw doesn't have to be super tight, just tight enough for the screw to bind on the Ti.
 
Ajack60 said:
Just make sure the grease isn't oozing out and getting on the threads. Ive found out that using too much grease is not a good thing. I've never used the loctite on any of my CRK's, even the ones that come with it.
The screw doesn't have to be super tight, just tight enough for the screw to bind on the Ti.
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This is something I've done upon CRK moving from the solid washers to the perforated ones. For reasons beyond my reckoning, I felt a need to REALLY fill up those perforations, and this got grease on the inside of the pin when threading the pin through the pivot hole. I could see this happening at the factory as well every now and then. OP, before doing Loctite, it might be worth cleaning the inside of the pins and the threading on the screws really good with 90% IPA or acetone...and you need to work it some to remove this grease!
 
I’ve had a couple 21s with the pivot screw backing out over time. Not a lot or have ever fell out. Usually the blade gets an extremely free action and a little play, that’s how I know to check the pivot.
 
pnsxyr said:
This is something I've done upon CRK moving from the solid washers to the perforated ones. For reasons beyond my reckoning, I felt a need to REALLY fill up those perforations, and this got grease on the inside of the pin when threading the pin through the pivot hole. I could see this happening at the factory as well every now and then. OP, before doing Loctite, it might be worth cleaning the inside of the pins and the threading on the screws really good with 90% IPA or acetone...and you need to work it some to remove this grease!
Click to expand...

That's exactly how I learned that too much grease is not a good thing. It's like Dippty Do, a little dab will do you.:p
Interestingly enough it caused my Sebenza to be harder to open. After a thorough cleaning and very little grease, the difference was night and day. I've pulled new ones apart and wondered if they used any at all. CRK is really conservative with the grease. I've also read that some run theirs dry.
 
Ajack60 said:
That's exactly how I learned that too much grease is not a good thing. It's like Dippty Do, a little dab will do you.:p
Interestingly enough it caused my Sebenza to be harder to open. After a thorough cleaning and very little grease, the difference was night and day. I've pulled new ones apart and wondered if they used any at all. CRK is really conservative with the grease. I've also read that some run theirs dry.
Click to expand...

YES! This boggles my mind. It seems to be especially pronounced if using a little too much forward pressure directly against the thumb stud. I don't know if too much grease is making the washers shift enough so where they are not positioning correctly or what, but it's kind of strange.
 
BellaBlades said:
The washers just need a lap on the strop. Then you can crank away.
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I took it apart and Lightly polished the washers with Flitz on some cardboard. It’s smoother than it was (it was already plenty smooth). I was able to tighten the pivot up a bit more due to decreased friction. Hopefully it will stay put now... if not, a bit of loctite will definitely work.

Loving the 21 and have a used large 21 Insingo on the way that I got for a good price. Don’t plan on keeping both a drop point and Insingo so it will be fun testing the different blade shape and deciding which is best for my use.
 
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