Thinking about a HT oven

I had already read all those links, and understand them. I was asking for some firsthand experience and thought that plates would cool much faster. Aluminum does transfer heat very, very fast. But if you guys say it won't work for shallower-hardening steels, then that's that.
 
The transfer rate for heat from metal to metal contact is higher than air to metal, but no where near what metal to liquid is. That is why salt pots are so efficient, BTW.
I didn't mean to sound offensive, and hope it wasn't taken that way. If it was, I apologize.
Stacy
 
they may not be as suitable for ramp and hold HT formulae as a programmable oven is.

Thanks for that Stacy.

If a DIY salt pot is digitally controlled, wouldnt it do ramp and hold just as well as an oven mate?

I understand about the safety issues - I'm interested in any downsides.
 
The digital control of a salt pot allows for tight regulation of austenitization temps, but an oven can change air to any temperature faster and easier than a pot can heat liquid.Standard salts have less than a 200C range of use. A 650C pre-soak before an 850C austenitization is impossible with salts that solidify at 700C. Many who use full salt pot setups have two or more pots, one at 200C, one at 650C and one at 850C ( for example). AT $1000-2000 (USD) each, that can get expensive......plus the always to be mentioned safety issues.

Those are downsides, but are far outweighed by the benefits of salt pot use in speed of quench rate and ausenitizaton .

Stacy
 
Thanks. How are people dealing with the carbuzation problems when heat treating in atmospheric ovens?
 
The digital control of a salt pot allows for tight regulation of austenitization temps, but an oven can change air to any temperature faster and easier than a pot can heat liquid.Standard salts have less than a 200C range of use. A 650C pre-soak before an 850C austenitization is impossible with salts that solidify at 700C. Many who use full salt pot setups have two or more pots, one at 200C, one at 650C and one at 850C ( for example). AT $1000-2000 (USD) each, that can get expensive......plus the always to be mentioned safety issues.

Those are downsides, but are far outweighed by the benefits of salt pot use in speed of quench rate and ausenitizaton .

Stacy

Which would be cheaper in terms of cost to operate, oven or salt pot?

Thanks. How are people dealing with the carbuzation problems when heat treating in atmospheric ovens?

You can throw a small piece of wood in there to eat up the oxygen.
 
Cheaper is a relative term. A salt pot and an oven are both costly items. A commercial salt pot is more expensive than a commercial oven. In use and maintenance the oven wins hands down as being easier and cheaper.

If by "carbuzation", you meant de-carburization, that is not much of a problem for most simple steels. A coating of PBC or Turco will protect the steel surface, and a properly tuned forge atmosphere ( one that is neutral or very slightly reducing) will assure that the blade does not get de-carburized. Putting a chunk of wood in the forge does nothing much, but such things persist. If there is free oxygen in the forge atmosphere, it will bond with the 1500F steel as well as the wood. For higher temperatures, and longer soaks,as required with stainless steels, wrapping the steel in a stainless foil packet is the norm. This excludes all external oxygen from the blade. Some put in a small piece of paper to burn up the trapped oxygen in the packet, but this is also serves no real purpose. Most of these steels are air quenching, and a pair thick ( 1" or more) aluminum plates do an excellent job of both cooling and preventing warp. Aluminum isn't a fast enough quench for oil and water quench steels. If an oil quench steel is done in a stainless packet, just snip the end ( while holding the packet in a pair of tongs, take the blade out with another pair of tongs ( or cheap HF long nose pliers) and quench in oil. There is no need to rush, as all the steels that you would possible do this on are deep hardening and you have from over 10 seconds to a couple minutes to get the quench done before the steel would hit the pearlite nose.

Stacy
 
Thanks again Stacy. Its my understanding that different steels can either carburise, or decarburize, or the third case of it not being a concern. My preferred steel is S5 for my type of blades which is oil or water hardening, and it will decarburize if steps arent taken to prevent it. S5 has medium hardenability and in knife section sizes it will harden through.
 
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