Thinner is Inner... or something like that...

J

jawilder

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Jun 27, 2006
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I've been making several small neck knives out of 7/64" O1 but want to change to 52100. The only problem is that Aldo doesn't have any 7/64" 52100. I either have to chose 3/32" or 1/8".

Personally, I think that 3/32" is plenty thick for a neck knife but the general consumer wants thicker blades. With that in mind, and I chose to go with 1/8", then I can use either 1084, 1095, and 52100. I have the ability to properly HT all three but don't want to mess with cryo on the 52100.

If you were to make a small knife with a 2.5-3" blade no more than 1" thick, which thickness and steel would you choose and why?

Thanks,
Jason
 
I think you are right on the 3/32 size for a neck knife or a lot of other styles as well.That thickness cuts very well. I used to think for my own personal knives that a thick blade was best because you never know when you need to do something a knife is not made for.

I think I am going to start forging them a little thinner and try some thinner stock removal stuff in the near future. Good question !
 
How do you know the general consumer wants a thicker blade? I would try a batch and see how they go.

Personally, for what you're selling those knives for, I'd go with 1084. Simple, quick and easy HT and you get a high performing knife. I'd doubt anyone could tell much difference between your 1084 neckers and ones made from 01 or 1095. If time isn't money, then I'd spend extra time and HT the 52100.
 
Bud Nealy uses the perfect thinless in his barstock.
Does anyone know what it is? It's under 1/8th.
 
Mudbug007 said:
How do you know the general consumer wants a thicker blade? I would try a batch and see how they go.

Personally, for what you're selling those knives for, I'd go with 1084. Simple, quick and easy HT and you get a high performing knife. I'd doubt anyone could tell much difference between your 1084 neckers and ones made from 01 or 1095. If time isn't money, then I'd spend extra time and HT the 52100.
Click to expand...

It seems like someone is always saying "If these were thicker I'd be all over them" or something like that. I think 7/64 is perfect for these but would rather buy from Aldo than my other O1 supplier. You make a good point about the price vs. HT process. Maybe I'll change to 1/8" 1084 and also play around with 3/32 52100. That would be the best of both worlds.
 
I am biased toward 3/32" steel for most tasks. I have slipjoints, neck knives, fixed blades and machetes in this thickness and they all do their job well. I personally see little need for other thicknesses in my future, but then again I'm not concerned with profit at this time, just having fun making knives. Plus I find that across the board I get better slicers from makers (other than myself) utilizing 3/32" or less than a thicker steel. Not a hard and fast rule, but it is what I go by.
 
What kind of quench oil do you have Jason? 1095 is less expensive then 1084 and if you have a fast oil and kiln, not that hard to HT. I could send you a small bar of 3/32" 1095 to test out if you want.
 
I have Parks 50. I've used 1095 before and will order some thicker stock for blades that require a hamon. I know that W2 is now available and will use it in the future but want to get more comfortable with 1095 first. Thanks for the offer but as cheap as it is, I'll just add some to my order
 
Thin is In, and Light is Right.

I'm not seeing where people said "I'd buy that if it was thicker/less sharp". Someone should start a poll in W&SS or General or C&H and ask if/why people really want thick, small knives with half a grind on them.

Frankly, I suspect those sell a lot because the bigger manu's flood the market with 'em, and can move them at a very attractive price-point, because it's a very efficient way to make mediocre knives and market them as being tough. For $40-$150, anyone can get a barely-ground, thick-edged, poorly-finished, powder-coated sharpened prybar in rock-bottom steel at a moderate hardness, with molded plastic or CNC'ed micarta scales from a wide number of companies, in overall lengths ranging from 5-15".

That's not necessarily a bad thing; those factory-made knives do work (sort of), and lots of people love 'em. They are certainly tough and affordable. It's a very smart business model.

No handmade/custom knifemaker can possibly compete with that approach and stay above water. We simply have to offer better steel, better designs, and most importantly better geometry and craftsmanship to justify our higher overhead/labor costs.

My stuff sells better when I use relatively thin stock and full-flat or full-convex grinds. Time and time again, my clients tell me they bought/ordered from me because my designs actually cut well. I have never had a client come back and say they broke one of my neckers or small EDC's... or any other THK. I've had many clients come back and order again. :)
 
I have found that people want the thicker blade especially those in the bush craft community, It drives me nuts. I can't think of much in this world one should do with a knife that can't be done with 3/32-1/8 hell I make a few at 1/16". I continue to make some wider blades because in the end I have to keep the lights on, but I make fewer and fewer. I hope we can educate consumers as we go. That being said If I wear buying the knife I would want 3/32" if I wear making the knife I would be tempted to make a batch of each and see.
 
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