This warehouse monkey wants a folder!

Brisket said:
When I open boxes I want a short blade to limit penetration that might damage contents and a flat edge blade profile like a sheepsfoot, wharncliffe or coping blade to make the job easier. There is a reason why box cutters are designed like they are. I agree with the stockman suggestion as that pattern would provide you the short sheepsfoot blade leaving the clip blade for food prep and the spey blade as a backup to the sheepsfoot as well as other tasks. A lot of cardboard is treated with chemicals such as insecticides and fungicides so avoiding using the same blade for any contact with food is advised. There are also many stockman available in your price range. The medium stockman options from Case might work well for you as well as the #9 Stockman from Queen in D2, one of my favorite stockman knives.
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I just use my thumb as a depth gauge.... kinda like pinching the blade I guess. It prevents me from cutting too deep.
 
I have not personally warmed up to the Canoe pattern, but I can certainly understand its appeal. I have one, and it is a lovely example of the pattern:





I think if the Queen Canoe, in either the economy 1095 with Delrin scales, or the D2 with Amber Bone, appeals to steve, then he should go with it. Should be a fine knife for light box cutting and looks to be a nice, flat pocket carry. The only Queen knives I have are the D2 versions and I like them fine.
 
Another idea: how about a Hawkbill? Pruning knives can be excellent for box opening, nice curved tip and plenty of handle to grip on to. Many have shackles or lanyard holes, very easy to pinch open. CASE and RR do nice enough ones and plenty of oldies knocking about too.
 
The best worker knives I've ever used are the Mercator K-55, and the Douk Douk. Both are all metal European folding knives. These are easy carry (thin like a stick of chewing gum) and super sharp. Cost 20-30 dollars. I cut LOTS of heavy cardboard everyday, and it dulls blades very easily, but the Mercator and Douk Douk hold up to all of it. I've grown frustrated with Case, GEC, and others, for not holding an edge for very long when it comes to cardboard, making it difficult for me to use these as everyday work knives. I like Case and GEC, but they just don't hold up to Mercator and Douk Douk. These also sharpen super easy, only a few swipes and it's like a razor.
 
ericnpeterson said:
The best worker knives I've ever used are the Mercator K-55, and the Douk Douk. Both are all metal European folding knives. These are easy carry (thin like a stick of chewing gum) and super sharp. Cost 20-30 dollars. I cut LOTS of heavy cardboard everyday, and it dulls blades very easily, but the Mercator and Douk Douk hold up to all of it. I've grown frustrated with Case, GEC, and others, for not holding an edge for very long when it comes to cardboard, making it difficult for me to use these as everyday work knives. I like Case and GEC, but they just don't hold up to Mercator and Douk Douk. These also sharpen super easy, only a few swipes and it's like a razor.
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I used to think pretty highly of Mercator 1095. I still do, but I used to too.
 
I find it odd that one would strongly prefer Mercator carbon steel to Case or GEC. I wonder if it's a case of different blade grinds (flat vs hollow - the former being much better for cardboard) instead of steel?

Worked my knives hard doing chores this weekend. Opinel Inox got beat on on Saturday and Buck 500 440c yesterday. Touched both up last night.

I prefer low carbide steel for shop work. Yes, high carbide steels keep cutting cardboard and rope longer but after the blades have been banged on, they take a lot longer to bring back to sharp.

A cheap Opinel or Mercator or Mora is nice in that one can sharpen often and burn out the blade on the stone with no loss of funds.

Shop knives are tools, not keepsakes.
 
pinnah said:
I find it odd that one would strongly prefer Mercator carbon steel to Case or GEC. I wonder if it's a case of different blade grinds (flat vs hollow - the former being much better for cardboard) instead of steel?

Worked my knives hard doing chores this weekend. Opinel Inox got beat on on Saturday and Buck 500 440c yesterday. Touched both up last night.

I prefer low carbide steel for shop work. Yes, high carbide steels keep cutting cardboard and rope longer but after the blades have been banged on, they take a lot longer to bring back to sharp.

A cheap Opinel or Mercator or Mora is nice in that one can sharpen often and burn out the blade on the stone with no loss of funds.

Shop knives are tools, not keepsakes.
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Now, I didn't say it was better than Case CV. :) It was probably the first carbon steel where I said, "Hey, this is good stuff.".

You always remember your first you know.

Here's one I've sharpened a bit.


Just got a Queen in D2. Yeah, I like the "harder than woodpecker lips" steel. The edge can be non-toothy and still be fairly sharp actually. This is one I'll not be afraid to use hard at work eventually so I'll let you know about that. It would most definitely be a good cardboard/warehouse knife with a toothy edge. 'Course an Opinel's thin stock might make it not too shabby and able to keep cutting even when a bit dull.

I am odd. :D
 
The Canal St half moon is my suggestion for a beater. Nice and thin with a good steel, holds an edge quite well and sharpens up easy enough.
 
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