@Thomas W and anybody who knows - advice needed regarding broken ZT0100 please

[nozh2002]

CPM 3V suppose to be toughest knife steel, may be after S7 which is not much in use in production blades. ZT100 suppose to be toughest production knife. I know that similar case happen to Busse Game Warden and they fixed it without questions.

It surprised that you broke 1.5-2cm of a blade like this, in the process of widening the gap between two slats a bit for being able to put a crowbar or a hammertip into it. I understand it was wooden slats of old terrace of fence? I would expect in such situation with tip deep in old wood to 1.5-2cm wood being ripped of rater then 3V blade being broken.

I suppose it was soft pine wood not hardwood right?

It will be interesting to see pictures of this case especially zoomed area of the break itself.

Thanks, Vassili.

P.S. Just checked Fehrmann website - their price is not much different that ZT100 even cheaper even if compare to street price and they have lifetime warranty against unintentional damage.

 

[The Mastiff]

Vassili, I'm not going to sit here and say that 3V isn't one of the tougher steels around in use today. Grind, thickness and use have a lot to do with the outcome. More so than the type of steel

The 0100 is designed to cut, chop and pierce. It has a relatively sharp, pointy grind that is meant to pierce, not pry.

Compare it to your D2 Curahee. D2 isn't known for it's strength, or better term, toughness in these situations. Your curahee , while sharp as heck, is built far more durable for the point area, so , despite having a less tough steel, will likely take more prying with the tip before damage occurs. Different grind putting more steel in the area where needed for that job. Better, no, different yes. They are built to serve different purposes IMO.

Both excellent knives BTW, and expensive too. I would pick a different design for that job ( prying) if I wanted the ability to pry. The 0100 is a great smallish chopper that chops like larger knives while having a secondary role as a fighter ( penetrator) for it's military role. One look at the tip and you can tell Prying isn't something it's really designed for.

Wether it should have that ability is a different argument altogether. Regards, Joe

 

[boef800]

It surprised that you broke 1.5-2cm of a blade like this, in the process of widening the gap between two slats a bit for being able to put a crowbar or a hammertip into it. I understand it was wooden slats of old terrace of fence? I would expect in such situation with tip deep in old wood to 1.5-2cm wood being ripped of rater then 3V blade being broken.

I suppose it was soft pine wood not hardwood right?

It will be interesting to see pictures of this case especially zoomed area of the break itself.

Thanks, Vassili.

I'm in the process of moving right now,so I'm not sure when I'll come around to take a picture and post it.Everything's a bit hectic around here to say the least.But I'll snap a foto of the knife before I send it back and'll post it,just have to come around to it.
Concerning the wood,no idea what kind of wood it was.But it was indeed hard stuff definitely,not a very soft wood at all.But ok it was wood,and if I would have thought the work would be to much for a knife/this knife I wouldn't have used it for it.Like you say Vassili the wood ripped away at some point like you would suspect it numerous times before,so it took me by surprise that suddenly at that time after using it already for numerous slats before it snapped.
Sure,maybe it was my fault ,but maybe just this particular knife had an irregularity in the molecular structure.I mean I hear you Joe and all the others "use the right tool sayers",but I haven't been trying to pry a bank vault door open with it or something.

Alex