Thoughts On HI Purchases?

Kis,
How does that Brush Hog work? Is there a rotating blade under the housing like a lawn mower? Some of these briar patches form an impenetrable wall 10 or 15 feet high. Do you just jam the Brush Hog into them and it chops them up?
 
Rusty said:
Steely_Gunz said something I want to second. I've a 25 or 26 inch kobra that has to my taste, way too much forward weight to it. Very unbalanced and unsafe to me as I think it could glance off with a bad cut and turn in your hand. 20" Kobras are the longest i'd go. The Sirupati's seem less angled in the larger sizes. I keep a 30" Sirupati to use cutting air in a figure 8 pattern horiaontally when my back bothers me. Seems to pull my back into alignment.

There seems to be extremely varied opinion in terms of "safety". Both Tom Holt and I ascribe to the theory that long, slim and light = safer, when it comes to machete-work involving anything springy. I've heard many people in past threads say that anything above 20" is for advanced users or that somehow you need greater skill with them.

I beg to differ. Tom Holt pointed out to me in previously mentioned emails that the long, light, slim khuks are more intuitive and consequently easier to use, and being lighter, require less force not only to get moving, but to stop and change direction after a completed cut, which accordingly makes it *SAFER*, not more dangerous.

Just my $0.02, I don't mean to step on people's toes by ridiculing anyone's belief in shorter = safer, but it's something that has bothered me since I first started collecting and using khuks...
 
Ben Arown-Awile said:
Kis,
How does that Brush Hog work? Is there a rotating blade under the housing like a lawn mower? Some of these briar patches form an impenetrable wall 10 or 15 feet high. Do you just jam the Brush Hog into them and it chops them up?

Just for the record, we don't have anything this cool in our arsenal. The civilian contractors do, though, meaning that if we can figure out a way to cheat, steal, or cajole one from them it's there for the taking. Therein lies the tale.

The civilians have a couple of these bad boys. They're contracted to truck their tractors and brush hogs out to the camp twice a year, beginning and end of the summer, to mow the lawns. They don't do a good job. Somehow, at some time in the past, they managed to argue that their contract doesn't cover roughly 50% of the lawn area, meaning that we're expected to do it with weed eaters. (If the weed eaters can't be made to run, we're down to using scythes and machetes while they're in the shop.) Don't laugh...you're paying me and several other E-5's a pretty decent paycheck for mowing literally acres of land with weed eaters because the contractors don't want to be bothered doing it and the department won't front the money for a lawnmower. It's not funny, it's criminal. But I digress.

The contractors aren't the only clever people in the area. We've convinced them that they must bring their equipment out on a Friday, as that's the only time our schedule is light enough to allow for it, so that they can get an early jump on the job the following Monday. They're also required to leave the keys for their vehicles in case they have to be moved in an emergency. "In an emergency", in this case, means using them for the entire weekend without their knowledge to mow the rest of the lawn, clear out overgrown roads, and obliterate as much vegetation as we can. As we have a diesel truck in our motor pool, it's not difficult to obtain the fuel to top the tractors off when we're done. No one's the wiser unless we manage to break one.

The cutters they use look very similar to this one. There are some huge blades underneath that chop the bejeezus out of just about anything. They're operated by the tractor via PTO. The back end is draped with chains to reduce flying debris. (Backed one up once. We don't do that anymore.) As a rule of thumb, if the tractor can make it through the vegetation, the cutter will handle it, but these are really built for high grass and light bushes. The problem I'd see with tall, dense masses of briars is the same problem you get when you take on a wall of blackberries with a DR -- the vegetation is so thick you have to start cutting at the top, but the machine isn't heavy enough to cut its way to the bottom...at least not in one pass.

For those huge briar patches, I've never seen an easy way to clear them without using heavy equipment.
 
I didn't read everyone's posts, so I appoligize if I've missed the boat a bit.

The 16.5" AK will do you just fine. I had a light 20" AK and it was a monster! Almost too big to use easily on anything but logs. However, my BAS glanced off even medium sized branches. The 16.5" AK should be right in the middle.

Now I've got a 21" GRS that I need to try out...:D
 
Two suggestions...

1. Fire...the old fashioned clearing method
2. Det cord...the infantryman's friend
 
Ben?

I've seen a lot of scary farm equipment. A Brush Hog is right at the top of the list.

It is basically a helicoptor blade driven by the Power Take-Off shaft on a farm tractor. The chains reduce flying debris.

In a non-OSHA approved technique, if you can bend vegetation down, either by driving over it or backing over it, it becomes little vegetative bits under the Brush Hog influence. If you have to drive the tractor over the saplings one day and then come back with the Brush Hog, fine. Solid tires are best, because the punji trunks of the trees can puncture even farm tractor tires.

I don't know the RPM of the blades, but flying debris is also a concern.

That said: If you are older, and very very tired of struggling through bramble and brush, you may find yourself smiling evilly at the thought of a Brush Hog coming through and devastating the crap that is tearing at your legs, arms and eyes.

I've seen saplings up to 4" thick disappear. Not smart, but very satisfying.
 
That Brush Hog sound way to intense for me. There is probably lots of similar type equipment I could get locally since this used to be, and still is to some extent, a logging area, but I hate the thought of bringing heavy equipment onto my land.

I thought I could hire some local kids, pay them $10 an hour and let them go at it, but it seems that they're not into manual labor these days. Used to be every teen age boy couldn't wait to work in the woods with an axe and saw, now they prefer a guitar and try to imitate the only local guy who ever got famous, Kurt Cobain.
 
Used to be every teen age boy couldn't wait to work in the woods with an axe and saw

There's still a few of us. I used to beg my parents to let me get a machete. When our hunting trail started getting really overgrown in the summer they finally relented.
 
Bill Martino said:
Welcome. Get enough help?

More than enough help. I now have a six-month plan for future purchases firmly in my head, depending on how well things go for me when I seperate from active duty. :)

The only questions now are, how to afford them all and how to hurry the mailman up. ;) I don't believe that I've ever anticipated a mail delivery this much in my life.
 
Satori said:
I now have a six-month plan for future purchases firmly in my head, depending on how well things go for me when I seperate from active duty. :)
Satori, Thank you for your service too our country!:D
 
Hibuke said:
There seems to be extremely varied opinion in terms of "safety". Both Tom Holt and I ascribe to the theory that long, slim and light = safer, when it comes to machete-work involving anything springy. I've heard many people in past threads say that anything above 20" is for advanced users or that somehow you need greater skill with them.

I beg to differ. Tom Holt pointed out to me in previously mentioned emails that the long, light, slim khuks are more intuitive and consequently easier to use, and being lighter, require less force not only to get moving, but to stop and change direction after a completed cut, which accordingly makes it *SAFER*, not more dangerous.

Just my $0.02, I don't mean to step on people's toes by ridiculing anyone's belief in shorter = safer, but it's something that has bothered me since I first started collecting and using khuks...

I totally see your point on this one, Hibuke. The main reason i have problem with the 25" over the 20" Kobra isn't as much of faulting the design as much as using what I have available to me. That is to say that handle on my 25" Kobra is an inch and a half shorter than that of my 20" Kobra. Plus, it is horn handled instead of wood which to me is slippery and harder to control. The weight is not an issue as much as the slippage. Unless someone just has a big pref for horn, then i think a long handled 25" kobra of the wood variety would make an excellent heavy duty brush smasher. Heck, if my 25" Kobra had a bit longer handle, then there wouldn't be a thing i couldn't do with it. I can see why Tom has such love for the blade.

Jake
 
I have a 25" kobra and a 25" sirupati. The siru's seen heavy use and does the job well; I prefer the 18-20" only because I'm less likely to ding up a shorter blade on rocks and such.
 
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