Thoughts on Scrapper 6

Could someone explain the "Zero Edge" that comes on the LE?(not new to knives at all. just never heard that before)
 
Got the knife. LOVE IT!!!!!! I will post a review in teh review forums later. Now I need to know how to sharpen a convex edge...
 
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Trying to make me jealous idahoskunk. Oh weel. I am very happy with my Scrapper. As for the convex grind. I took it off after a few minutes on the Sharpmaker. Now I have a standard V-Grind that is even sharper than the original convex..
 
BarrelTwist said:
Could someone explain the "Zero Edge" that comes on the LE?(not new to knives at all. just never heard that before)
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there's 2 types of "zero edge", there's a true zero edge like you would see on a puuko or a chisel, this is where the main grinds angle terminates at the actual cutting edge. you can place the entire main grind flat on a stone, and you'll be sharpening the actual cutting edge. You can also do this with a convex edge, but the line between it and the next type gets murky quickly.

then theres the "no shoulder" style of "zero edge". That's where you take a normal knife that has a say 4 degree main grind, you grind an 18 degree cutting edge onto it. you then do a very heavy 9 degree edge to get rid of the shoulder. you then move to a soft surface sanding media, like a sanding sponge, or sand paper on top of leather or foam - and you round out any corners caused by the transition from the 4 degree main grind to the 18 degree cutting edge. this gives the appearance of being a "zero edge" because the transition from main grind to cutting edge is so smooth, and it greatly reduces noticeable friction between the knife and the cutting medium, but it's not a true "zero edge" like a puuko or chisel.


most of the "zero edge"s you'll see on busses are in the later category. true zero edges are inherently thin at the edge which means any heavy damage the edge takes will creep up into the main grind farther then it would with a thicker build.
 
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