Thoughts on the Case Seahorse Whittler

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mrszeontestpilot

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Mar 28, 2012
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I've had this for a few months now (june/july), and have done some whittling with it. Overall, I think it's a great whittler. It has a nice length, and the wharncliffe/coping blades are perfect for me; the pen doesn't get used much. I am a bit curious about something, though. Why would the make the main blade so thick, and the secondary blades so thin? I guess because a thin blade is good at slicing, but it almost feels flimsy,
and I'm a bit concerned I may break it off at some point. I feel like I need to be extra careful going back and forth between it and the extra thick main blade. I wish the main blade was at least normal thickness, or perhaps even all blades normal thickness. Does anyone know why they made them this way?
I've looked around a little for something like a half whittler or half congress with the wharncliffe/coping combo, but it doesn't seem like there are many (if any) options, especially with me being a stickler for stainless. Hopefully I won't break the blade on the seahorse, and I'll be good to go.

 
I was eyeing the Damascus version of that same knife just yesterday in a shop. This thread is relevant to my interests.
 
I've always admired the Seahorse Whittlers but haven't picked one up yet. Someone more knowledgeable then me will post about the thickness on the Wharncliffe shortly I'm sure. I think the original patterns had a thicker more stout blade historically.

Here's a couple of great whittlers if you can find one. They're a little pricey as are all of the Case/Bose Yearly collaboration knives. Great knives though.

The two blade is the 2009 collaboration Norfolk, the Lockback Wharncliffe Whittler is the 2014 knife. The Norfolk has a nice thin Wharncliffe and clip in ATS-34. The Lockback has a thicker Wharncliffe and nice thin secondary blades in 154-CM. If I recall correctly all the blades are flat ground.
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The thicker wharncliffe blade is best for roughing out or hogging out your whittling stock. The secondary blades are flimsy for more finer detail cuts and the ability to flick out your chips or shavings. If you take a look at say a Flexcut carving knife, which is purposely built for the professional carver, the blades are thin and flimsy for this purpose. I doubt you will break a blade on your Seahorse as long as you don't horse down on it. It is a fantastic whittling knife that I am hoping to add to my carving arsenal soon.
 
Peregrin - Thanks for the suggestions. I'm really hoping to find one with a whatncliffe main and coping secondary. I just find the coping a tad more useful than a clip or pen.

RobertJ1 - That does make sense. Still seems a bit awkward, but maybe I just need to get more used to it. I actually have a flexcut, and it's probably closer to the thickness of the main blade on the seahorse.
 
That's interesting that your Flexcut is that thick. I have yet to see one that is. Must be a roughing knife if anything.
 
I love the design of the Seahorse whittler, but wish Case would make it in carbon steel, or 01. While useful, the 420hc steel they use is not my first or second choice.
The handle shape feels good in the hand, and the blade styles are very useful IMO.
 
waynorth said:
I love the design of the Seahorse whittler, but wish Case would make it in carbon steel, or 01. While useful, the 420hc steel they use is not my first or second choice.
The handle shape feels good in the hand, and the blade styles are very useful IMO.
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I'll echo that, and add that a CV option would be nice in this pattern, too. I have a 2003 'horse (chestnut bone) that serves as a pretty useful carry knife from time to time, so it is pretty much a permanent part of my rotation. If anything, it is always useful as a conversation starter. :D

 
+1 on the offering of carbon steel! I like the design and would pick one up if they offered steel options.
 
Carbon steel seahorse...I'm still hoping. I'm hoping GEC will step up with a 1095 version in their #38 frame
 
JSCHENK said:
Carbon steel seahorse...I'm still hoping. I'm hoping GEC will step up with a 1095 version in their #38 frame
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Another run of 38 whittlers would be great in my books. Came back into knives just as the last ones dried up.

OP, you've opened my eyes to an option I hadn't considered before. Thanks! This discussion will be interesting to follow.

O
 
I've wanted one for years. Not big into whittling but I just love the look of the knife. Maybe I should pick one up soon...
 
I was a fan.

Got this Smooth Chestnut Bone one a couple of years ago. Excellent F&F particularly like the unusual style of this knife, it's most individual and that's a strength. was struck by the massive thickness of the master blade, almost to the point of being outlandish. The secondaries are very thin, could be brittle I suspect, so like Mrs Z I was concerned about their robustness.:eek:

Then GEC unleashed the 38 and turned the tables on CASE. The backspiring is a thing to behold, the secondaries are more meaningful to my mind and the master although not Wharncliffe, is a masterstroke. It fills the whole frame and you get a really decently sized blade, in the hand the 38 feels better too.

Problem is GEC are fundamentally stainless-shy and unfortunately, I don't see them offering this pattern in stainless for the next half-century...:rolleyes: Be really good though, especially a 2 blade single spring with non brass liners.

If Mrs Z can overcome her distaste for carbon, the 38 is the 3 blade knife to get or the 57 Half Whitt with Wharncliffe master- this too is comfortable in the hand-rather important for extended use.

That said, the Seahorse is a worthy, authentic and admirable knife.

Thanks, Will

IMG_0565.jpg
 
mrszeontestpilot said:
I've had this for a few months now (june/july), and have done some whittling with it. Overall, I think it's a great whittler. It has a nice length, and the wharncliffe/coping blades are perfect for me; the pen doesn't get used much. I am a bit curious about something, though. Why would the make the main blade so thick, and the secondary blades so thin? I guess because a thin blade is good at slicing, but it almost feels flimsy,
and I'm a bit concerned I may break it off at some point. I feel like I need to be extra careful going back and forth between it and the extra thick main blade. I wish the main blade was at least normal thickness, or perhaps even all blades normal thickness. Does anyone know why they made them this way?
Click to expand...

Ease of manufacture. It is what I call a parallel spring whittler, meaning it has two untapered backsprings. That dictates the main blade stock being the thickness of both secondaries plus the catch bit in between. The result is a very thick main and very thin secondary blades, but it is much easier to build than either a tapered spring or wedge back setup, keeping the cost of manufacture down. I've done a lot of whittling with mine, and the smaller blades are flexible enough that I think it would be fairly difficult to break them. On the other hand, I very seldom use the main blade at all, it is too thick for my taste.
 
Will Power - I used to have a thing about not using slipjoints, since I cut myself pretty nicely with one once, but I've gotten over that. So who knows; I can't say it's impossible, but who knows.

Gary - That's an interesting thread. I think I actually saw it when it started and lost track of it... Hm...

Yablanowitz - Interesting. Thanks for the info.
 
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I love mine, and carry it frequently. The thick main blade doesn't bother me, the knife is quite a slicer as long as you're not using it as a kitchen knife.
As an EDC/ whittling knife, it's pretty awesome.

Edit: mine is caramel bone, with as ground SS blades. Definitely more of a working knife.
 
If you don't like Case stainless, the Seahorse has been done in damascus, however it's about 2x the price.
 
I have a couple of these in my whittlin' box. As others have said, it's OK (and good enough for me to keep) as an actual whittling knife, although there are other options.

For some things, I like the thin secondaries. I don't think there's any danger of breaking a blade in normal use. Frankly, with the Case lifetime warranty, I wouldn't be too concerned on a user anyway - they would most likely replace any broken blades or the knife without question.

For a dedicated whittler, flexcut (or similar) is the way to go. For drop in the pocket convenience though, the Seahorse is a great knife.
 
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